7M4EVR;1977104 said:
Why would you think the ECU is bad as long as the above condition exits? Especially since that's the same circuit you've been having trouble with? After all, M-Rel will not be active until the IGSW condition is resolved.
chasing intermittent signal to ecu (code 11)
- Thread starter 7M4EVR
- Start date
Why would you think the ECU is bad as long as the above condition exits? Especially since that's the same circuit you've been having trouble with? After all, M-Rel will not be active until the IGSW condition is resolved.
7M4EVR;1977104 said:
Your loose connection doesn't get tighter over time. Negative entropy is impossible. Keep looking. Like at the melted harness.
jetjock;1977193 said:
I did wonder about why i would only get the 4.8 V, but it's because i lack the technical knowledge to know better and since the TSRM says 10-14V I thought it was a possiblity. Can you give me an explaination of what sort of thing "could" cause that low of voltage on that terminal?
A bad connection upstream. Maybe the IGN switch or IGN fuse:
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036
Need 12 volts on IGSW for M-Rel to turn on and have the EFI relay supply +B.
You could try bringing 12 vdc to IGSW directly to see if everything else is working. Just be sure to identify the correct pin.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=036
Need 12 volts on IGSW for M-Rel to turn on and have the EFI relay supply +B.
You could try bringing 12 vdc to IGSW directly to see if everything else is working. Just be sure to identify the correct pin.
jetjock;1977209 said:
Thanks I follow ya... Gotta be IGN SW or maybe the ign sw wire because the IGN fuse has power with a test light. Obviously the ign switch is right behind where you put the key in on the steering column, but I cant find anything on how to test the switch itself. I guess it will be obvious when i open it up and see the connector...i hope.
jetjock;1977209 said:
Would running a wire from the batt positive to the IGN SW terminal in the ECU be the way to do this? Again thanks for sticking with me i know this is basic stuff I just have never learned it.
That'll work but be careful. Best to fuse the jumper. Couple of amps at the source end will do. As for test lights they have their place but a meter is better especially when dealing with ECU stuff.
Sticking with you because of the effort you're making. Not writing like a 10 year old also counts. So does the gratitude...
Sticking with you because of the effort you're making. Not writing like a 10 year old also counts. So does the gratitude...
Went ahead and got myself a fusible link at the parts store and made my own jumper wire. When i put 12V to the IG SW terminal in the ECU everything got power like it should. Therefore, thanks alot for saving me from wasting money on a new ECU!
I then took the jumper out and went and looked over the part of the harness I repaired that melted to the EGR pipe to see if there were any other wires that had damage i may have missed, but they all were fine. Then I had the idea to turn my key to the on position and wiggle the ign sw wires under the steering column and watching the MIL to see if it came on. It did not.
Then I decided to test the IGN fuse in the kick panel with a multimeter this time instead of a test light. I didnt even get the negative lead on a ground yet and the MIL came on just from me barely pushing on the fuse! I was estatic, but still very confused because i wiggled that fuse and even held it in tight while trying to start it multiple times when the car first stalled and it didnt help. So I have one theory: The wire that grounded out on the EGR pipe now being removed from the pipe and fixed made the difference and allowed power to the fuse. But what are the odds of that?
Don't worry Nick I still know I have the issue with the loose connections at the ECU, but I believe that is a seperate issue, and only happens when I tug at the ECU wires. I believe the intermittent ground and the stalling issue I am experiencing is in fact from the IGN fuse and/or the melted spot on the harness. I want to fix the fuse issue and properly secure the harness and see if that takes care of the problem. If it does I'm hoping if I just stay away from tugging at the ECU wires I can ignore that.
Does anyone have a solution to make the fuse fit tighter in the fuse box? the fuse box is missing the top metal prong so it doesn't fit snug. Temporarily I bent the fuse prongs in opposite directions a bit to make it fit tighter. But I'm wondering about a more permanent solution such as adding a new factory metal piece to the fuse box (no idea where to find one, or if it can be done) or just breaking off a couple other fuse prongs off some unused ones and soldering them to my fuse lol????
I then took the jumper out and went and looked over the part of the harness I repaired that melted to the EGR pipe to see if there were any other wires that had damage i may have missed, but they all were fine. Then I had the idea to turn my key to the on position and wiggle the ign sw wires under the steering column and watching the MIL to see if it came on. It did not.
Then I decided to test the IGN fuse in the kick panel with a multimeter this time instead of a test light. I didnt even get the negative lead on a ground yet and the MIL came on just from me barely pushing on the fuse! I was estatic, but still very confused because i wiggled that fuse and even held it in tight while trying to start it multiple times when the car first stalled and it didnt help. So I have one theory: The wire that grounded out on the EGR pipe now being removed from the pipe and fixed made the difference and allowed power to the fuse. But what are the odds of that?
Don't worry Nick I still know I have the issue with the loose connections at the ECU, but I believe that is a seperate issue, and only happens when I tug at the ECU wires. I believe the intermittent ground and the stalling issue I am experiencing is in fact from the IGN fuse and/or the melted spot on the harness. I want to fix the fuse issue and properly secure the harness and see if that takes care of the problem. If it does I'm hoping if I just stay away from tugging at the ECU wires I can ignore that.
Does anyone have a solution to make the fuse fit tighter in the fuse box? the fuse box is missing the top metal prong so it doesn't fit snug. Temporarily I bent the fuse prongs in opposite directions a bit to make it fit tighter. But I'm wondering about a more permanent solution such as adding a new factory metal piece to the fuse box (no idea where to find one, or if it can be done) or just breaking off a couple other fuse prongs off some unused ones and soldering them to my fuse lol????
ATL88Supra;1977112 said:
You mean that advice was crap? I'm shocked I tell ya, shocked.
Fix the fuse issue. Nothing is going to work until there's 12 vdc at IGSW with the key on...