Oddly enough, I passed my emissions test yesterday with flying colors. Even got a compliment from the guy who worked there on how the numbers turned out. My question to you is: where can I get another canister? I threw mine out, but seeing as how there's no gain, I might as well put it back in and avoid any hassels. I still have the bracket and bolts, but that's it.
charcoal canister
- Thread starter turbodriz
- Start date
Your emissions guy must either be ignoring the visual inpsection or Idaho doesn't have one (which would be odd). The truth is the EVAP system is sometimes responsible for *failing* an emissions test. It'll cause high HC if it's not working right. In fact on a modern OBD II car the ecu monitoring of the EVAP system is so precise it often drives mechanics crazy.
I suppose you can get a new canister at a junk yard or use one off any car as long as the size is right. Canisters used in EVAP systems tend to be similar. If you get a used one you can regenerate it by pulling a vacuum on it while heating to around 175 F for a few hours. By doing this you'll be desorbing the HC from the charcoal.
Charcoal is used for adsorbtion because of it's enormous surface area. Here's a totally useless tidbit of information: the best charcoal for this purpose comes from coconuts.
I suppose you can get a new canister at a junk yard or use one off any car as long as the size is right. Canisters used in EVAP systems tend to be similar. If you get a used one you can regenerate it by pulling a vacuum on it while heating to around 175 F for a few hours. By doing this you'll be desorbing the HC from the charcoal.
Charcoal is used for adsorbtion because of it's enormous surface area. Here's a totally useless tidbit of information: the best charcoal for this purpose comes from coconuts.
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Lol, it may appear I cruise the net for this nonsense but I actually know that from working in other industries. The lead maker of cryogentic vacuum pumps (which require charcoal to adsorb certain gases) in the US bought an entire warehouse full of coconut charcoal because of it's properties. Whether it's used in auto EVAP systems I can't say.
Lagged has a point: so many people have pulled them off I'll bet there are plenty around for cheap.
Lagged has a point: so many people have pulled them off I'll bet there are plenty around for cheap.
I have a plastic JDM one with 300 km's on it if anyone is interested (yes 300/185 miles)
I fitted it a few days before I lost the old motor on the dyno then stripped all of the petrol gear out of the car!
$70 usd shipped
I fitted it a few days before I lost the old motor on the dyno then stripped all of the petrol gear out of the car!
$70 usd shipped
where do u guys think the line from the canister goes to... the bottem of the engine bay... u cannot simply block it off for the fact that its there to relieve pressure build up in the tank. so if u dont drill holes in our cap the fuel will simply expand and overflow out of the filler cap.. doesnt sound very safe to me either
I think that point has already been made. I advocate keeping the canister it but the line can either be run to the bottom of the engine bay, ala the old PCV draft tubes, or the tank can be vented. The fresh air line on the stock canister goes into the fender.
The cap is already "vented" but only in one direction because the fuel tank needs to be equalized as fuel is withdrawn. Checking the fuel cap valve is part of the EVAP inspection on an emissions test. But yes, plug the line and you'd better also vent the tank for positive pressure. And if the cap isn't vented how will the fuel flow out of the filler? It won't. Tank deformation or rupture could result which is why the tank needs to be vented in both directions.
The cap is already "vented" but only in one direction because the fuel tank needs to be equalized as fuel is withdrawn. Checking the fuel cap valve is part of the EVAP inspection on an emissions test. But yes, plug the line and you'd better also vent the tank for positive pressure. And if the cap isn't vented how will the fuel flow out of the filler? It won't. Tank deformation or rupture could result which is why the tank needs to be vented in both directions.
when i installed my new fuel pump/filter and shit i had the tank out altogether, when i finished installing it with my dad when down to servo and filled her up.. nect day in the sun - fuel was pissing out the tomp of the filler, my only explanation is that the breather/returnline was but on back to front so rather then the retun being submersed under the fuel and the vapuour at the top of the tank, it was the other way round allowing the pressure to build up to the stage where i could see the fuel rises and overflow the top of the filler cap (on or not) by removing my canister the fuel level rapidly dropped down to where it should be. dad says he didnt connect anyy lines back to front and each of the 3 (pick up return and vapur have 3 different size lines)
I dunno what happened there but good thing it did. The point of the EVAP system is to seal the entire fuel system so no HC escapes into the atmosphere. The only path for escape in a working EVAP setup should be to the engine. Things could be different in OZ though.
okay bringing up another old thread, I just installed my New turbo elbow w/ WB bung onit.. unfortunatly the WB won't fit w/ the CC there. I'm most likely going to get a vented gas cap (as I'd like to retain the CC for emissions testing in 2 years) but also at the same moment I'm weary of going that route.
now would it be possible just to replace the CC w/ a vacuum T have one going to the water housing, one going to the line on the firewall, and say zip tie the Third line down towards the bottom of the engine bay (same place itw as vented before if not further down)
i'm going to buy a plastic JDM CC and relocate later on but for now i need the space.
now would it be possible just to replace the CC w/ a vacuum T have one going to the water housing, one going to the line on the firewall, and say zip tie the Third line down towards the bottom of the engine bay (same place itw as vented before if not further down)
i'm going to buy a plastic JDM CC and relocate later on but for now i need the space.
Get the plastic JDM one and tuck it under the inner guard plastic and extend the hoses.........
Hidden and 100% functional.
Hidden and 100% functional.
I just pulled mine and blocked off the hole about a year and half back, and I already had a vented gas cap from the previous, owner, supoposedly she lost the original, Retarded people, ughhhh. I like it for the weight loss and clean engine bay, easy access to the DP and for more room for the heat to move around, I doubt its much of a difference but in Missouri we have 93 octane and no emissions.
jetjock said:
I can confirm this. I recently replaced my gas cap on my 3G with a locking cap to keep bastards from stealing my gas (like they did with another one of my cars). The gas cap would not thread in correctly, but you go in far enough that it would lock and you couldn't get it off without the key. Anyways the seal wasn't as good as it was suppost to be. My CEL came one, I replaced the gas cap with the OEM one, it went off after a few start, stop trips. Problem solved, the locking gas cap is back on though as that was confirmed as the source causing the car's OBDII ECU the throw the CEL.
After reading what was on the OEM gas cap it said something like, "WARNING, make sure you tighten the gas cap until it clicks at least 3 times or the check engine light may come on".