i was changing the rear driver tire and was taking the lug nut off. I have them torqed down to 100 lbs, and i twisted like butter! so what do i have to do to fix this problem:1zhelp:
thanks for the help.
thanks for the help.
changing tire and a stud broke off!
- Thread starter mk3tattoos
- Start date
Line the back of the stud with the hole in the back of the hub and hit it out with a hammer.The dust sheld might be in the way so you have to take that out of the way.I think thats how you do it.It's been awhile am I leaving anything out?
Once fixed if some MORON with a rattle gun comes near your car punch him in the head for putting your life in danger.... :nono:
Would be wise to change them all out as the others are probably fatigued. Its easy and cheap enough...
By the way the lug nut spec is 76 Ft Lbs not 100! That is way too high. Use some anti seize on the threads too.
By the way the lug nut spec is 76 Ft Lbs not 100! That is way too high. Use some anti seize on the threads too.
IMO anti-seize is overkill for them. If they are at the proper 76 ft lbs, you wont need it. 100 ft lbs isnt excessive, but the 250+ from a gun, especially after a few decades of (most likely) plenty of that.
I use antiseize everytime I torque mine down 
They're subjected to high temps from the rotors so it's small insurance to keep the threads in good condition.
They're subjected to high temps from the rotors so it's small insurance to keep the threads in good condition.
if using anti-seize, oil, or any other compound on the threads, adjust your torque accordingly to maintain the appropriate preload. (i.e. when using a lubricant, less torque is required to achieve the desired preload vs. dry threads)
for the many cars that I've had to hammer new studs in.. I wish I was there to catch the people that try and use a impact. torque sticks suck cuz well impact. I for whenever I need tires put on. watch the guy slamming tires and make it clear to him to by hand the lug nut to tight and torque it down. impact will be upside head if I see on used on my car.
I always retorque mine, regardless of the shop that does the install, and then retorque them again after several days of driving. By the way, the torque spec for the wheels is for clean dry threads.
One thing I did learn early on owning a Mk3 is with stock rotors uneven or excessive torque will deform the rotor hat and friction surfaces giving pedal pulsation.
so can some one tell me how to get them out, and were do i get the stud from.
i read the post were he says to hit it with a hammer. and thats it?
i read the post were he says to hit it with a hammer. and thats it?
Dealer for perfect fit replacements, after market if you have access to power tools.
Yes they have a knurled shank that's an interference fit in the hub you just hit them using a punch and hammer and they'll pop out.
Yes they have a knurled shank that's an interference fit in the hub you just hit them using a punch and hammer and they'll pop out.
Push the new stud in from the back and use some washers and a lug nut to pull it into the hub until it seats.
you dont ADD torque if you use a "lube"... its like with arp head studs
moly lube is 75 ft. lbs
oil is 100ft lbs or something up there... its a large difference...
so if anything, i wouldnt go over 70ft lbs if you use anything on the threads.
moly lube is 75 ft. lbs
oil is 100ft lbs or something up there... its a large difference...
so if anything, i wouldnt go over 70ft lbs if you use anything on the threads.
I'm glad i made this thread now, i am getting great info to use. I have awlays wanted to use lube but never heard of anyone doing it thank you so much, and if there is anything else please chime in!