phoenix6 said:
Take it for what it's worth......this is my current setup, not necessarily the "best idea", but one option
Changing the Fuel Filter?
- Thread starter FoolishOne
- Start date
Take it for what it's worth......this is my current setup, not necessarily the "best idea", but one option
yup that was my post! for us here in the usa, canada, settled/established places that have cars that have moved in the past 3 years or so are ok with the stock filter i think. if you have excessivly dirty gas in your area, have a car that sat for a while, rust issues, then yea i would think a ff redo might not be a bad idea
I would think that getting "bad gas" is almost impossible these days. Their tanks are throughly inspected and tested, and changed every certain number of years. If you got a tank of bad gas that would mean they had thousands of gallons of bad gas delivered. I have changed many mk3 fuel pumps now and remember they do have a strainer before the filter, and I have never seen one that had anything more then a tiny amount of fine particles covering less then 5% of the filter. The only reason we changed the last one was because there was OLD gas sitting in it, but it still would have worked.
This was a pretty debated topic awhile back, but one thing that should be noted is that, YES, Toyota designed the Fuel Filter to last the lifetime of the car. The thing that most people fail to realize in this argument is that the designed life time of our cars is ten years. Yes, ten years, so if you apply that to the fuel filter, the designed maintenance cycle of the fuel filter is 10 years. And as such it should be replace by then or sooner, but it's not meant to last longer than that.
MKIIINA said:
The filter is stainless, and almost nothing gets in but gas because of the strainer on the pump in the tank.
shaeff said:writeup to change the fuel filter. stick with me, i'm about to go to bed, and it's 6:10am.
without removing the tank: grow monkey arms, and reach around up above the differential and do it. basically the same as below, but with the tank in place. it's a bitch this way, but can be done (and i've done it this way)
filter replacement with removing the tank:
open the hatch, pull the little access panel off in the trunk (not the fuel sender one, the other one) and disconnect the wires. pop the gas tank door, remove the four screws in there, as well as the gas cap, for good measure.
it's much easier to do with an empty tank, but can be done with some fuel in there. get a floor jack and a piece of plywood, jack it up to hold the tank in place.
get some line wrenches and PB blast, and disconnect the feed line, (need line/flare wrenches for that) the return line (pliers to remove the spring clamp) and the vent tube, (same as return line, spring clamp)
now the only thing holding the tank in are the straps. grab a wrench, and a socket with an extension, and have at it. (if you don't brace the other nut with the wrench, you'll bend the mounting brackets, you'll see when you get up in there)
once those straps are loose, all the weight of the tank are on that floor jack. so be really careful! have a friend help you if you're not confident in yourself!
lower the jack carefully, and put aside. (now's a good time to change that shitty old fuel pump!)
now- use flare wrenches to remove the fuel line from the filter on the side connecting to the hardline. (toward the driver's side) get a 10mm socket and remove the filter/bracket assy. from the underbody, and pull it right out.
now, get new copper washers, and do the reverse procedure to put it back in. when putting the tank in, use your knees against the tank, and press your back against the ground to hold it there. i did this alone with 5+ gallons of fuel in the tank. it was a bitch to do alone, but it can be done.
(by the way, i only weigh 130lbs, so i'm a pretty small dude)
note: use lots of PB blaster on the fittings and especially on the mounting bracket bolts for the fuel filter. they're probably really rusty. i actually soaked mine for a week, along with all the fittings and whatnot before i attempted this. everything came right off with little effort, and i live in NY, (rustbelt). the fittings were pretty rusty, but i had no trouble with them.
good luck!
-shaeff
grow yourself some monkey arms !!!!!
i thought that was funny as shit !!!:biglaugh:
Will
Adjuster
Supramania Contributor
Almost every in tank fuel pump has a sock type filter on the pickup point. (Stock does, and same goes for the Walbro's.)
So, the fuel is pre-filtered before it's taken out of the tank, then filtered again by a large filter that is almost impossible to reach and replace...
And as noted, the large filter in the unreachable place can in theory filter fuel for a million miles or so. (More if you replace your fuel pump sock filter from time to time..)
Almost 180k on my car/filter and no problems.
I bought another one to replace it when I replaced my pump, but gave up on removing the original one, so it's in there with slightly chewed up fittings... Damn fittings and my cheapo wrenches from Snap On...
Guess I should have soaked them for a week with PB...
Oh, and now that I'm adding a second fuel pump.. (with another sock filter.. I'll just use my "new" stock fuel filter after the tank, and I don't plan on replacing the stock one ever..)
I doubt I'll reach a million miles, and where I run so much Toulene through the gas from time to time, there should be NO varnish in my fuel system.
One question about that custom fuel system and nifty turbo mount...
How exactly are you draining the oil from the CHRA with it vertical? LOL
So, the fuel is pre-filtered before it's taken out of the tank, then filtered again by a large filter that is almost impossible to reach and replace...
And as noted, the large filter in the unreachable place can in theory filter fuel for a million miles or so. (More if you replace your fuel pump sock filter from time to time..)
Almost 180k on my car/filter and no problems.
I bought another one to replace it when I replaced my pump, but gave up on removing the original one, so it's in there with slightly chewed up fittings... Damn fittings and my cheapo wrenches from Snap On...
Guess I should have soaked them for a week with PB...
Oh, and now that I'm adding a second fuel pump.. (with another sock filter.. I'll just use my "new" stock fuel filter after the tank, and I don't plan on replacing the stock one ever..)
I doubt I'll reach a million miles, and where I run so much Toulene through the gas from time to time, there should be NO varnish in my fuel system.
One question about that custom fuel system and nifty turbo mount...
How exactly are you draining the oil from the CHRA with it vertical? LOL
^^^Trunk mounted turbos don't need oil, my next mod will be relocating the 7M to the back seat, transversely mounted. It wont need oil either- rod knock solved!
/confusing noobs
/confusing noobs
Great info guys!
Talk about cleaning up the engine bay, jimi! Running the IC pipes, oil lines, etc. to that must be easy...just run everything right through the cabin. LOL
»fo
Talk about cleaning up the engine bay, jimi! Running the IC pipes, oil lines, etc. to that must be easy...just run everything right through the cabin. LOL
»fo
Right now in the process of changing FF and yes I'm going the Shaeff as in Safe route. 2 days of PB blast and one day of Liquid Wrench only 'cause my PB ran out. Banjo bolt side already broke loose. Hard line side needs further convincing and I guess more PB blast that dirty mutha @*#! Will not drop the tank unless hard line side becomes a severe PITA. Gonna hacksaw the old FF to get a reading on it and that son of bitch better b dirty damm filter cost 20 bucks. Although I'm not a human contortionist I sure do feel like one. Wish I had monkey arms. Don't know about a million miles but will be content with 500K!