Well, we checked it out but it looks like I need some special tools to do this operation. Could someone give me a quick run down with what tools to accomplish the task. I would rather hear it from the pros then the book, since you guys make more sense. Thanks.
Changing Head Gasket
- Thread starter RedDogOIF
- Start date
nothing for the cam gears. The pulley puller u can rent at autozone for 15 bux. they call it a steering wheel puller trislot uses 3 bolts.
Flexhead wrenches and a 10mm allen deep for the head bolts, rest is just 14mm,12mm and some 10mm bolts! Good luck!
Flexhead wrenches and a 10mm allen deep for the head bolts, rest is just 14mm,12mm and some 10mm bolts! Good luck!
When you replace the head gasket myself and many others Im sure would recommend ARP Studs for the head, it wasnt mentioned if you had already planned this or not so I thought Id toss it in there. Reusing stock headbolts is a baddddddddd idea lol.
Don't forget the 12mm tap to chase the headbolt threads... I can't remember the pitch though, it's either 1.25 or 1.5.
It's rather important. Without making sure the threads are straight and clear you may get a considerable amount of torque showing up on your wrench, but it's actually just because you're fighting the threads. Had you cleared them out you may have actually only been at 60ft lbs instead of the 70ft lbs you thought you were at.
and it's ABSOLUTELY necessary for studs, as they won't go all the way down without cleaning the years of crap out of there...
Just did mine and I Strongly suggest good lights . I got 1000 watt halogens on a tripod stand and two craftsman wands . It really helped being able to slide them down beside the engine. You might want to get some spare wire and butt connectors handy to fix pulled wires and a good assortment of 10,12 mm nuts and bolts because you will likely lose a few. Try and get a few Mayo jars to put stuff in ,a sharpie and masking tape to number every thing . Check and replace all gaskets
12mm tap with 1.25 threads, they can be a little hard to find. I had to special order mine from O-reiley's.
For the sake of not scoring up the block and head by accident by VERY carful with that gasket scraper, use a gasket removal spray and something like a hard, plastic squeegy thingy 
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I used a plastic putty knife . You can get them at the dollar store. A big piece of cardboard with the edges tape up to make a tray helped me with finding dropped bolts . Also get a really long flexable extension for your ratchet to get to the oil return lines on the turbo I had to come at it from the bottom and slide between the motor mounts . That was a huge PITA
mattsplat72 said:
YUP!
If you are unfamiliar with the process (it sounds like you are) you should take some pictures of the motor etc. at various angles to look at later, in case you get a little fuzzy on what stuffs supposed to look like during reassembly.
label your wires/connectors as you take em off
when i did mine.. i labeled mine 1-70.. as then i know what i took off first and last and how to reassemble
take lots of pics for the weird parts..
i used blue masking tape and a sharpie to label harness plugs/hoses and etc etc
when i did mine.. i labeled mine 1-70.. as then i know what i took off first and last and how to reassemble
take lots of pics for the weird parts..
i used blue masking tape and a sharpie to label harness plugs/hoses and etc etc
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that was our method on my friends dsm. that, and some pictures, and a repair manual.johnathan1 said:
and he had worked on his car sooo much that, and since i knew alot about them anyway, it only took us 8 or so hours to do EVERYTHING, which included swapping heads, manifolds, etc.
So just for a hg, this guy shouldnt have too hard of a problem.
starscream5000 said:
ditto, make sure it's a blind tap!!
You don't HAVE to label all the connectors, they're very self explanitory, and most only go to one spot...