I have about 3k on the new engine now and I just bought some Mobile1 with a new filter... anything I need to do special other than normal to change over?
Changing from normal to synthetic
- Thread starter Justin
- Start date
Change the oil, cross your fingers , hope theres are no leaks.
If the engine is new you should be good.
What weight are you using?
If the engine is new you should be good.
What weight are you using?
macsupra76 said:
Its a brand new engine, with fresh EVERYTHING, I can't imagine there are any leaks.
5-30, its cold as hell here and I read/heard its the best way to go in the cold.
Justin said:
unless you driving a vw that stuff fucks with the pressure sensor and now i have to deal with a constant buzzing when off throttle until i can change to soe thicker stuff
three identical vw engines all running fine before i put this oil in and then everyone of them has had the same thing happin it's also happined to quite a few people on vwvortex.com. trust me i though my engine was screwed at first but checked the dip stick and was like wth then went home and got on vwvortex to find it happens when you put 5 or 10 in it. also have a oil pressure gauge in one of my cars and watched the gauge as the buzzer went off and the pressure was fine.shaeff said:
Justin - the Mobile 1 5W-30 will be just fine...in fact you can run it all year round in your new motor. Just check to make sure you are getting pressure in the TRSM spec at idle and 3000 rpm at operating temp. Don't be tempted to run a ?W-50 oil...ever. Actually a ?W-40 is a bit thick for a new motor. I've posted quite a bit of info on oil lately, do a search and it will show.
The filter is as important as the oil you choose. Wix, PureOne, Napa Gold are all excellent. Fram filters are garbage.
The filter is as important as the oil you choose. Wix, PureOne, Napa Gold are all excellent. Fram filters are garbage.
jdub said:
Thanks for the input dude.
A buddy told me to do 5W-40 in winter, and 10W during the summer. He seems to know his stuff on oil so I figured I'd listen. If I can do 5W all year round might as well just do that
I use napa gold as I've been told by a number of guys that it is just a re-badged wix filter
GrimJack said:
Toyota filters are middle of the road....the interior of the filter resembles a standard Purolater filter. The testing I've seen on them varies from inferior to good concerning filtration ability...nothing to call home about. The gasket that seals the filter to the housing is a rounded type...the square edge type seals better. The anti-drain valve works as advertised. The by-pass valve is at the back of the filter...not a huge deal, but if it does go into by-pass the oil will go through the inside of your dirty filter (without being filtered) before it goes to the motor.
Justin said:Thanks for the input dude.
A buddy told me to do 5W-40 in winter, and 10W during the summer. He seems to know his stuff on oil so I figured I'd listen. If I can do 5W all year round might as well just do that
I use napa gold as I've been told by a number of guys that it is just a re-badged wix filter
NP...glad to help
Nah...run the 5W-30 in a new motor. If you want a little thicker 30w oil at operating temp, try the German Castrol 0W-30 out...viscosity wise, it's at the high end of a 30W 100 deg C spec. Plus it's a pure Grp IV synthetic oil...it seems Mobile 1 recently switched to a Grp III base stock. Basically a hydrocracked dino oil. I'm not saying Mobile 1 is bad, but when I buy a synthetic oil at the price you pay for it...I expect to get a synthetic oil
The NAPA Gold is a Wix...that is true. I mention it because it's usually easier to find.
Last edited:
Damn, thanks for the info jdub. I'm going to have to go searching for new filters, my stock of replacements is all FRAM. Luckily I haven't fired up the engine yet...
Luckily I haven't fired up the engine yet...
Why would synthetic cause leaks? Especially in a low mileage engine? Another old myth survives.
Re Mobil One: Only the 5-30EP and 15-50EP has been provent to contain Grp III but since XOM steadfastly refuses to confirm or deny it the entire M1 line is suspect. Keep in mind the EP line is XOMs most expensive oil. As pointed out it's still a good oil but when you pay syn prices you should get a syn.
Grim, I'll second what the dubster said. Toyo OEM filters are made by Purolator or Denso depending on well, where they're made. Both are OK filters. Decent media with a fair pleat count, dome end spring loaded bypass, and a nitrile anti-drain back valve. Not a bad filter but there are better ones out there for the same money. If you can get a deal on them go for it but otherwise use a WIX or PureOne. The Walmart SuperTech is a good filter too. Made by Champ and only a couple of bucks.
The Toyota resin filters (90915-20004) are a cut above but they're as rare as hen's teeth these days. Here's one place you can still get them assuming you're crazy enough to pay the price: http://tinyurl.com/ycnjbm
Frankly, if your engine is healthy and it was me I'd put a Trasko hybrid full flow/bypass filter on it.
Fram is like Mobil One: a lousy value for the money but lets face it, millions of Frams are used without problems. Just don't run one a long time the way you could a good filter. I change my full flow at 20K. The Mann Hummel on my car has been in service 16K thus far so it'll be due soon. Course running a bypass filter helps but even without one any filter worthy of the name can go at least 15K miles. Remember, because oil filters are surface elements their efficiency increases with use.
Lastly I'll point out what I have before: the oil filter's importance pales in comparison to the air filter.
Re Mobil One: Only the 5-30EP and 15-50EP has been provent to contain Grp III but since XOM steadfastly refuses to confirm or deny it the entire M1 line is suspect. Keep in mind the EP line is XOMs most expensive oil. As pointed out it's still a good oil but when you pay syn prices you should get a syn.
Grim, I'll second what the dubster said. Toyo OEM filters are made by Purolator or Denso depending on well, where they're made. Both are OK filters. Decent media with a fair pleat count, dome end spring loaded bypass, and a nitrile anti-drain back valve. Not a bad filter but there are better ones out there for the same money. If you can get a deal on them go for it but otherwise use a WIX or PureOne. The Walmart SuperTech is a good filter too. Made by Champ and only a couple of bucks.
The Toyota resin filters (90915-20004) are a cut above but they're as rare as hen's teeth these days. Here's one place you can still get them assuming you're crazy enough to pay the price: http://tinyurl.com/ycnjbm
Frankly, if your engine is healthy and it was me I'd put a Trasko hybrid full flow/bypass filter on it.
Fram is like Mobil One: a lousy value for the money but lets face it, millions of Frams are used without problems. Just don't run one a long time the way you could a good filter. I change my full flow at 20K. The Mann Hummel on my car has been in service 16K thus far so it'll be due soon. Course running a bypass filter helps but even without one any filter worthy of the name can go at least 15K miles. Remember, because oil filters are surface elements their efficiency increases with use.
Lastly I'll point out what I have before: the oil filter's importance pales in comparison to the air filter.
Wow, JJ, you're back!
How are the K&N "High-Performance" oil filters?
Also, are the Autozone (STP) air filters okay to use?
How are the K&N "High-Performance" oil filters?
Also, are the Autozone (STP) air filters okay to use?
The German Castrol? It's at Autozone...it's marked "European Formula" and says "Made in Germany" on the back.
BTW - it's the only pure syn that Castrol sells in the US that I know of...the other "synthetic" oils in the SynTec line are Grp III Hydrocracked base stock.
BTW - it's the only pure syn that Castrol sells in the US that I know of...the other "synthetic" oils in the SynTec line are Grp III Hydrocracked base stock.
That German Castrol stuff sucks...too thin
Maybe Johnathan, maybe not. We'll see but to be honest it's not looking good at this point. Until I decide for sure I'll do as always and offer advice via PM here or in public at mkiiitech. Besides, from what I read jdub has a very good handle on this oil thing.
The K&N is a good filter. The problem is it's a suck value. Again, why pay 11 bones for a filter when you can buy the same performance for 5? Maybe you like that big nut on the K&N? If you need that nut (or a filter wrench for that matter) to remove a filter you're putting it on too tight. I can't recall the last time I couldn't spin a filter off by hand but I don't use oil on them either. I use Dow Corning DC4, the stuff used on aviation oil filters. Good for your igniton system and electrics too. It's what the stuff is designed for.
Like the Walmart Supertech and many others STP is made by Champ Labs. Anything they make is decent but again unless you get a deal you can do better. Just remember price doesn't always equal performance. You don't always get what you pay for and the only way to know the difference is by edjumacating yerself. That not hard when it comes to filters. For example there's a way to tell if a filter is made by Champ no matter what brand it's being sold under.
If you want to pay extra for something that gives you increased performance try an Amsoil Eao filter. It pains me to say it but the test reports on them look good. Made with synthetic media by Donaldson, a world class filter maker. I use a Donaldson on my coolant.
Course, filters are like oil: guys sweat over them no end when the truth is millions of engines do just fine on cheap filters and cheap oil. If you're going to sweat over anything that makes a small difference that difference will be in the details. Pretty strange considering most of the people doing the sweating refuse to learn even the basics.
Maybe Johnathan, maybe not. We'll see but to be honest it's not looking good at this point. Until I decide for sure I'll do as always and offer advice via PM here or in public at mkiiitech. Besides, from what I read jdub has a very good handle on this oil thing.
The K&N is a good filter. The problem is it's a suck value. Again, why pay 11 bones for a filter when you can buy the same performance for 5? Maybe you like that big nut on the K&N? If you need that nut (or a filter wrench for that matter) to remove a filter you're putting it on too tight. I can't recall the last time I couldn't spin a filter off by hand but I don't use oil on them either. I use Dow Corning DC4, the stuff used on aviation oil filters. Good for your igniton system and electrics too. It's what the stuff is designed for.
Like the Walmart Supertech and many others STP is made by Champ Labs. Anything they make is decent but again unless you get a deal you can do better. Just remember price doesn't always equal performance. You don't always get what you pay for and the only way to know the difference is by edjumacating yerself. That not hard when it comes to filters. For example there's a way to tell if a filter is made by Champ no matter what brand it's being sold under.
If you want to pay extra for something that gives you increased performance try an Amsoil Eao filter. It pains me to say it but the test reports on them look good. Made with synthetic media by Donaldson, a world class filter maker. I use a Donaldson on my coolant.
Course, filters are like oil: guys sweat over them no end when the truth is millions of engines do just fine on cheap filters and cheap oil. If you're going to sweat over anything that makes a small difference that difference will be in the details. Pretty strange considering most of the people doing the sweating refuse to learn even the basics.
Haha, I was going to mention that big nut on the bottom, but I wanted to hear what you had to say first...lol. That thing is pretty handy.
As for the air filter I was thinking about getting the K&N drop-in replacement for now, but the fact that it is covered in oil, and the fact that the Karman-Vortex AFM is so sensitive worries me. So I just went with the cheapie STP...lol.
As for the air filter I was thinking about getting the K&N drop-in replacement for now, but the fact that it is covered in oil, and the fact that the Karman-Vortex AFM is so sensitive worries me. So I just went with the cheapie STP...lol.
jetjock said:That German Castrol stuff sucks...too thin
LOL :biglaugh: Good to see you around here JJ.
Here's a link to a guy who took a bunch of different types of filters apart and he ID's the manufacturer for each:
http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html
JJ is absolutely correct...guys should learn the basics on oil and go with what makes sense for their motor. Once you figure it out, you come to the conclusion the companies out there charge more for a re-named filter and that synthetic you're using just might not be a real synthetic. Why pay the $$$ for the name when you can get the same or better for less.