CF engine bay pics

catback

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
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bitterville
Subcept said:
you can use decient epoxy resins that can withstand heat much better than poly or vinyl esters. I've built items made to withstand 2,000*F + for customers. a lot of them also won't turn as yellow / green over time.

as much as a initial pain in the ass as it is, if you plug any holes under the lay-up with some bondo to seal it, and get a cheap vacuum pump, or a venturi vacuum that runs off your air compressor, and bag all that, it will look much more clean, and greatly minimize your finish work.


as long as the surface was prepped correctly (ground to metal) and wiped clean with some solvent, the carbon should never delaminate from the metal.

I'm considering making carbon IC piping for my car, tubing can be a pain in the ass, but it would be very unique, and I can make it any shape I want, with only necessary joints.



if anyone has any questions about composites, I've been doing this professionally for about 10 years, hit me up.

agreeed 100%
it could have come out better, but i'm happy with the results..
i needed something to do while the eng. was being rebuilt:biglaugh:
i'm going to stick to small pcs. from now on tho. lololol
i've been contemplating the ic pipe idea for a while too.;)
 

polobai

New Member
Apr 1, 2005
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Orlampa
i love the idea-I dont think there is anything ricer about it-whats the difference in that over painting and filling the bay-if you consider this ricer, then I would imagine painting a bay would be ricer also..... Good job on the work, well executed, however-I think you should do the entire bay including the whole firewall to make it look complete.
 

Subcept

Learning
Mar 18, 2007
46
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Seattle
catback said:
agreeed 100%

i've been contemplating the ic pipe idea for a while too.;)

the trick to doing quick tubing, w/o making pain in the ass molds and using a bladder to compress it, or making the tubes in 1/2, then bonding them together, is very simple.


order some styrofoam, in the diameter you want the inside of your tubes to be, or larger if you want to sculpt it to a specific size / shape. using superglue cut / shape / mock up your IC pipes with the styrofoam, so they are exactly how you want it. once your happy, you wrap the styrofoam with your material, 4 plys of 3k carbon should be sufficient, and lighter than aluminum piping. its a good idea to use a strait edge and a fabric pizza cutter thing to cut strips the right width thats the same as the OD of the foam. the last ply use masking tape on the outside edges of the carbon to prevent fraying, which can be sanded off later, and will give you a crisp seam if you measure correctly. you can envelope bag it for strength, or leave it as is if your uncertain of your bagging abilities to not mess up the weave.

once its cured, pour some acetone (fingernail polish remover) into the styrofoam to completely melt it out. sand, clear, trim, install :naughty:


theres the secret, now everyone will do it :nono:
 

catback

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
451
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bitterville
Subcept said:
the trick to doing quick tubing, w/o making pain in the ass molds and using a bladder to compress it, or making the tubes in 1/2, then bonding them together, is very simple.


order some styrofoam, in the diameter you want the inside of your tubes to be, or larger if you want to sculpt it to a specific size / shape. using superglue cut / shape / mock up your IC pipes with the styrofoam, so they are exactly how you want it. once your happy, you wrap the styrofoam with your material, 4 plys of 3k carbon should be sufficient, and lighter than aluminum piping. its a good idea to use a strait edge and a fabric pizza cutter thing to cut strips the right width thats the same as the OD of the foam. the last ply use masking tape on the outside edges of the carbon to prevent fraying, which can be sanded off later, and will give you a crisp seam if you measure correctly. you can envelope bag it for strength, or leave it as is if your uncertain of your bagging abilities to not mess up the weave.

once its cured, pour some acetone (fingernail polish remover) into the styrofoam to completely melt it out. sand, clear, trim, install :naughty:


theres the secret, now everyone will do it :nono:


excellent writeup:drink1:
i still have alot of carbon left so i might have to try it:icon_bigg

i'm not sure about the firewall area behind the engine. i will probably just paint it black.. <<<thoughts?

added pics of my side view mirrors that we did 1.5 years ago on the first page:icon_bigg PRE 89 CF mirrors FTMFW!!!!
 

MassSupra89

Almost done.
Nov 3, 2005
1,707
0
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MA
Wow. I want to CF my radiator support with a CF block off plate, and CF valve covers and intake pipe.:icon_razz . that would be sweet.
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
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Victoria, BC, Canada
couldnt you do the same piping idea with fiberglass and the appropriate resin? i was thinking that carbon tape, the stuff that comes in rolls thats usually 1" wide or so, would be even easier. just wrap the styrafoam like you would heatwrap an exhaust pipe. think it would work?
 

Subcept

Learning
Mar 18, 2007
46
0
0
Seattle
Enraged said:
couldnt you do the same piping idea with fiberglass and the appropriate resin? i was thinking that carbon tape, the stuff that comes in rolls thats usually 1" wide or so, would be even easier. just wrap the styrafoam like you would heatwrap an exhaust pipe. think it would work?

yes and yes. I was explaining how to do it and make it pretty.

you can also order carbon fiber sock, but I haven't used it in so long, so I have no idea how much it is. and trying to stretch the sock over previous layers that are wet is very difficult. you could do it with resin infusion, but thats a 2 page write-up.

mind you carbon tape and sock costs a LOT more than buying it buy the yard. 3k carbon itself is up to $40+ / yard. 30-35 if you buy a 100 yard roll. damn military.
 

Enraged

A HG job took HOW long??
Mar 30, 2005
1,845
24
38
Victoria, BC, Canada
ya, i was thinking more about fiberglass tape, but i guess it would depend on the type of weave and alot on the resin, give the harsh environment underhood.
 

pimptrizkit

thread killer
Dec 22, 2005
1,572
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vancouver Wa
wow,

i dont think very many people would take this as a task to try, but like walways there owuld be a hand full

i think cf hard pipes would be sick and very dificult like you stated,
 

Reign_Maker

Has cheezberger
Aug 31, 2005
5,767
0
0
51
Florida
I love it CatBack... That's not only different but clean! I would LOVE to have my rad support done like that and maybe that strip of metal under the windshield wipers... Would you be willing to do parts for other people? For example, I would LOVE to get my trim moulding done like that in CF... Let me know...
 

Subcept

Learning
Mar 18, 2007
46
0
0
Seattle
Tire Shredder said:
so wait, you're making the car heavier by putting carbon fibre OVER the metal? riiight. good plan.


one ply of 3k carbon is 0.0085" thick. its like paper. He's barely adding more weight than if he would scuff the bay and re-paint + clear coat it.
 

catback

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
451
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bitterville
johnathan1 said:
How much is this costing you, catback? :icon_conf


alot of time... LOL
it's not too crazy expensive.

REIGN: you have PM

TIRE SHREDDER: i would say TOTAL it all weighs 5-10LBSmax , i've done the light weight thing already +i dont race the car 1/4m etc. i find alot of folks on here worry about weight too much, they buy a carbon hood and install 12" subs.... i'm going back to the comfort that made me love this car in the first place..

if anything i should loose 10-20lbs myself ;)

thanks for the compliments, i'm clearing the pas inner fender tonight..:)
 
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catback

New Member
Mar 30, 2005
451
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bitterville
^^^ i got the idea from a jdm prelude:biglaugh:
update:

i finished the pass side tonight:icon_bigg
it has some patches but overall i'm happy with it..
sm_photo_missing.jpg


i also picked up my manifold :love:
i had to change the flange for a stock TB :(
my buddy decided to polish it while he was at it..:)
sm_photo_missing.jpg