Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula in high horsepower apps?

[dejacky]

okay,
so who is running this oil in high horsepower supra (400whp or above)?

Castrol Syntec 0w30 European Formula "made in Germany"

7m or 2j / 1jz doesn't matter, I'm just curious to see who is having success with this thin oil in higher horse-power applications.

 

[hvyman]

fyi its a 30w at operating temps. its a 0w at colder temps like 70 below. unless your doing full out racing this oil is great for the street.

 

[dejacky]

I understand that and read that Dr.' s take on oils. My question is who is running this oil on the above mentioned toyota engines making over 400 horse power? I'd like to know the details of those persons's setups as well as how long they've been using this oil at those power levels as well as any racing they do.

 

[tlo86]

good oil used it on mine

 

[mk3ukr]

I used it for the last 3-4 years with 61 mm turbo. My setup is here
http://mk3ukr-supra.net/Intro.htm

 

[jdub]

okay,I'm just curious to see who is having success with this thin oil in higher horse-power applications.

LOL...I wouldn't call a 100 deg C viscosity of 12.1 cst "thin" for a 30W. It's one of the highest viscosity 30W multigrades out there at ops temp.
http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/b...local_assets/downloads/p,q/pds_syntec_usa.pdf

I understand that and read that Dr.' s take on oils. My question is who is running this oil on the above mentioned toyota engines making over 400 horse power? I'd like to know the details of those persons's setups as well as how long they've been using this oil at those power levels as well as any racing they do.

I'm over 400 HP and have run this oil for years. I did remove the stock filter head and went with a full flow cooler circuit. I also shimmed the pump relief valve ~5mm.

The combination of both increased pressure...I get 15-20 psi at hot idle and 45-50 psi at 3000 RPM. It continues to increase ~10 psi per 1000 RPM all the way to WOT.

I do very little racing....however, this oil (since it's a PAO) will handle the additional stress/heat load very well. The best thing you can do is upgrade your cooler circuit if you plan on tracking the car. Adding an accumulator is not a bad idea either.

 

[grimreaper]

Been running it for the past 9-10 months since ive had the car... 400whp or close to it with the sp61.
OCI every 6 months or 5-6000 miles and Wix filter every 3000 miles and at oil change

 

[mkIIIman089]

dub, is this even possible or my imagination:

GC seems become thinner faster for each deg above 100C than the Redline I was running previously. Every oil I've run seems to thin out more rapidly (judging by loss of pressure per RPM) above the magic 100C mark, but is it possible that their "curve" is different for the same SAE grade? (If that even makes sense... LOL)

 

[jdub]

Yes it makes sense...each base stock is going to drop in viscosity when heated at different rates. In the case of GC vs Red Line, it's really a case of PAO vs ester. Ester is superior in retaining viscosity under high heat conditions...that is why ester based oils replaced PAO for use in jet turbine motors.

 

[Hmong_1G]

WOW... hum.. is it true that running thicker oil in a older motor (20w-50 or 10w-40) doesn't increase the lubrication for any worn internals, but increase damage that might occur 9 because of a heavier weight. I read the Oil guy page, but there are things that I don't fully understand. I'm currently running 10w-30 royal purple in my 170,xxx 7mgte daily driver.


i ran 0w-30 in my previously owned 4g63T talon (t04b 57 trim) and had no problems. I was able to pull 412hp at the crank. Not a 7M or 1j/2j but a great success

 

[jdub]

Running a thick oil doesn't do your engine any favors, unless you've built it to handle it...and, even then I'm not a fan of the really thick oils. For a stock motor you want the lowest 1st number you can find in a 30W multigrade. In your case (and if you like RP oil), use the 5W-30. Personally I like the Castrol that is the subject of this thread.

 

[Hmong_1G]

Just giving the RP a try. I grew up around castrol only.

 

[GrimJack]

I've been using the German Castrol for years, haven't had any problems yet.

 

[dejacky]

is there an oil comparable to the german castrol 0w30 that is a little thicker at operating temp (say 40w?), doesn't become as thin past operating temp compared to the german castrol, and has more zinc?

 

[hvyman]

gc is a thicker 30w at op temps. redline makes a 0w30 and 0w40 5w30 and 5w40. imo i prefer the gc over redline. i would use redline and can get it at cost but i like the gc.

 

[Poodles]

is there an oil comparable to the german castrol 0w30 that is a little thicker at operating temp (say 40w?), doesn't become as thin past operating temp compared to the german castrol, and has more zinc?

Zinc additive was cut back because of emissions, all modern oils are that way...

You can buy the additives though (usually specificly used for cam break-in).

I ran 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum and then switched to the 0w-30 German Castrol and at high temp (it gets hot as hell here in Texas and I was flogging it through the hill country) the pressures stayed consistant with the GC but dropped with the pennzoil.

An aftermarket cooling circuit would have made a world of difference, I'm running the stock setup still...

ninja edit: if you can get redline cheaper than GC, run it. I think I might be able to do the same through work but I haven't had the time to look into it...

 

[jdub]

is there an oil comparable to the german castrol 0w30 that is a little thicker at operating temp (say 40w?), doesn't become as thin past operating temp compared to the german castrol, and has more zinc?

Amsoil European Car Formula 5W-40 (AFL)
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/afl.aspx

It's a PAO like GC, but is a bit thicker at 100 deg C (13.7 cst). However, being a PAO viscosity will drop along the same rate as GC above that temp.

As suggested, you will need to buy a ZDDP additive if you want more zinc...but, why? The M and J series motors don't use a flat tappet cam.

Actually, I'm wondering why you want an oil like this?

 

[hvyman]

jdub, im sure redline anything is good but how does the 0w30 redline compare to the gc?

 

[jdub]

jdub, im sure redline anything is good but how does the 0w30 redline compare to the gc?

It's a much thinner oil, both cold and at ops temp. It is ester based so it will handle high temps better without degradation. Overall an excellent oil...you can't get better than an ester. I have seen it cause higher wear metals in UOAs for the 1st fill or 2 until it removes all the oxides present in the engine.

 

[GC89]

I ran redline for quite a while but after expanding my oil system and with more plans to increase the capacity in the near future I switched to GC. (the 5+ a filter deal at autozone didnt hurt either). If I could get a deal on it Id switch back in a heartbeat. The GC is very good oil and for strictly a street car is plenty sufficient for my engine, but an ester based stock is much more consistent in higher heat and extreme conditions. When I get a track car built I will be dishing out the extra cash for Redline