Car wont start, just bought it and it ran fine..

[mk3design]

So I bought another Supra yesterday(7m with 4k on stock rebuild) and it drove 2+ hours in 100degree weather home, the water pump doesnt work and it leaked a bit of oil out of the turbo, but it ran fine. Bit it did keep jumping up in idle from 1k-2.5k rpms.

I got home and upon further inspection I found the hks filter had a 4" opening over the 3" intake and wasnt even conected.. The afm plug is real loose to.

So I replaced the filter with one what fit and tightened it down... I also changed the oil and oil filter. I also changed out some thick fuel line for regular vacum line where needed(bov, etc)

There were also countless wires what are disconnected and and some what are chopped off, mostly around the water pump what doesnt work....

So after the oil change I go to start it and it doent even crank, so we jiggle some wires and make sure everything is connected and it starts.

But... it idles for a second real low and dies... give me some ideas...I just changed the oil and air filter...lol

 

[Angry7M]

So I bought another Supra yesterday(7m with 4k on stock rebuild) and it drove 2+ hours in 100degree weather home, the water pump doesnt work and it leaked a bit of oil out of the turbo, but it ran fine. Bit it did keep jumping up in idle from 1k-2.5k rpms.

I got home and upon further inspection I found the hks filter had a 4" opening over the 3" intake and wasnt even conected.. The afm plug is real loose to.

So I replaced the filter with one what fit and tightened it down... I also changed the oil and oil filter. I also changed out some thick fuel line for regular vacum line where needed(bov, etc)

There were also countless wires what are disconnected and and some what are chopped off, mostly around the water pump what doesnt work....

So after the oil change I go to start it and it doent even crank, so we jiggle some wires and make sure everything is connected and it starts.

But... it idles for a second real low and dies... give me some ideas...I just changed the oil and air filter...lol

FIrst off check your codes and see what you get. And while your at it check your CPS wiring.

 

[Zelfear]

So I bought another Supra yesterday(7m with 4k on stock rebuild) and it drove 2+ hours in 100degree weather home, the water pump doesnt work and it leaked a bit of oil out of the turbo, but it ran fine. Bit it did keep jumping up in idle from 1k-2.5k rpms.

Ummm... I don't think it was a very good Idea to drive a car for 2+ hours with the water pump not working. I would fix that first and then I would find out what wires are not hooked up/broken. What about the temp while you were driving?

 

[jdub]

So I bought another Supra yesterday(7m with 4k on stock rebuild) and it drove 2+ hours in 100degree weather home, the water pump doesnt work and it leaked a bit of oil out of the turbo, but it ran fine. Bit it did keep jumping up in idle from 1k-2.5k rpms.

:3d_frown:

I have an idea, give the car to me and I promise I'll save it from any further abuse.

 

[jetjock]

Lmao. Did you look under the hood of this car before you bought it?

 

[mk3design]

Well we stopped 3 times and let it cool down... I had no other way to get it home. I was told the water pump didnt work about 2 minutes before I left the guys house I bought it from.

Yes I knew it had a few problems before I bought it, but he never told me about the pump. He assured me it would make it home no problem.

 

[jdub]

This is killing me...you're saying that running an engine in the AZ heat for extended periods of overheating is not going to have an effect on the motor?

Good luck with that...I see a BHG in your immediate future. Followed by the realization the aluminum head was annealed from the overheat and can never be used again.

Let me add this up $$$ wise...yeah, a flatbed tow truck is way more expensive than this one.

 

[mk3design]

No, im not saying anything like that... If I would have known I would have brought a trailer, but like I said he told me the water pump didn't work no more than 2 minutes before I left. (he told me on the phone it was his DD and it would make the trip with no problems).

This car is never going to be a DD and the plan was to do all maint. before anything. I just ordered a new water pump kit as well as new turbo gaskets, i think its leaking on the drain gasket.

Just looking for a solution on the first question I had, so I can move on t replacing alot more stuff

Thanks

 

[Poodles]

Um.... considering the extreme simplicity of the stock waterpump I doubt it "doesn't work."

The motor is trashed, more than likely he lied and it has a massive BHG and/or clogger radiator. Not to mention the disconnected wires that you're finding.... hope you didn't pay to much because you're going to be paying now to fix all his mistakes...

 

[mk3design]

Well, Im going to pull the 7M today, not how I expected but I'll get these problems fixed and hopefully get it back up in a month or so, w/e. Im not going to test bhg, we will see when I get there.. But might aswell get a full gasket kit and replace everything anyways and fix the turbo leak with the engine out. And fix the wireing and vacum lines while its out...

Thanks for the input

 

[Supracentral]

Good luck with that...I see a BHG in your immediate future. Followed by the realization the aluminum head was annealed from the overheat and can never be used again.

Well, Im going to pull the 7M today, not how I expected but I'll get these problems fixed and hopefully get it back up in a month or so, w/e. Im not going to test bhg, we will see when I get there.. But might aswell get a full gasket kit and replace everything anyways and fix the turbo leak with the engine out. And fix the wireing and vacum lines while its out...

You really need to take a step back and review the potential severe consequences that overheating one of these engines can create, and what you're going to need to do to determine if spending anything on this motor is a waste.

One of the worst things that occurs during an overheating event is detonation. Aside from the obvious potential damage to the head gasket, the stress on the rings, pistons and rod bearings. It doesn't take a whole lot of detonation to cause damage. You can roll the dice on the bearings if you like, but you're already taking a chance.

Furthermore, as jdub mentioned, the aluminum in our cylinder heads starts to lose strength at temps as low as 450 deg F. Now I know you're thinking that you never let the coolant get that hot. Fine I believe you, but but the dry spots & steam pockets that occur during overheats can very well approach and sometimes exceed these temperatures. You've invariably baked something, you just don't know what it is yet. You need to get a competent shop to check that head surface for hardness.

Also, you've got to remember that heat makes the aluminum head swell almost three times faster than cast iron block its bolted to. The resulting stress can distort the head and make it swell in areas that are hottest. You've got to get it checked for straightness too.

Moreover, your pistons may have swelled enough to scuff the bores. A thourough inspection of the block is in order.

Not to mention that if any coolant gets into the oil you can kiss the bearings and bottom end goodbye. Read the bottom half of this post in the section "Commentary on rod knock after a HG swap" for info on that.

You may have very well quadrupled the costs of the repair bill by driving it instead of towing it.

 

[suprahero]

Did it have coolant in it at all? Maybe it had a BHG and the guy drained the coolant so you wouldn't see it spewing everywhere as you drove off. Just curious if you checked for coolant before you left. I know when my waterpump went bad it would simply leak all of the coolant out of the weep hole.

 

[mk3design]

Coolant level was full. I checked again when I got home too, but looked like straight water though. Looked a bit rusty too, be he just did the HG recently..not sure if it flushed the radiator, didnt look like it. The oil I drained seemed to be straight oil.

Anyways, on my origional question - I got it to start and idle normal after replacing and sodering some of the 'bare and twisted together joints'.. Havent drove it yet though until further inspection