Car will not go into gear. Need some advice.

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

R154 transmission.
Resurfaced stock flywheel (FW).
Used TRD pressure plate (PP).
New Toyota throw out bearing.
New Toyota clutch disc.
New Toyota pilot bearing.
New (not reman) Beck Arnley clutch slave cylinder.
Same old 100k mile shift fork.
Same old 100k mile clutch master cylinder.

Car will not go into gear. I recently got my car running. I haven't driven this car in 10 years. I recently replaced my slave cylinder because my old one had a small leak. I tried those speed bleeders from O'reilys Auto Parts but they were too short and didn't fully close, so I went back the the stock bleeder valve.

I then bled it with my wife pumping the pedal, and me turning the bleeder screw open and closed. I'd have her pump it five times, and then hold it to the floor until I turned the screw. We did that roughly 20 times.

Still will not go into gear. I feared I installed the clutch disc in backwards. I removed the inspection cover, clutch fork, and all six bolts from the PP to FW. I pulled back the PP to look at the clutch dics. It is NOT in backwards. The PP straps look fine. They aren't busted. I thought I bled the clutch slave cylinder enough.

At this point I'm going to try that one man bleeding kit they sell at your local auto parts store. Either that or buy a longer bleeder screw from summitracing.com and try it.
Do you guys think it could be my clutch master cylinder?

When I had my wife step on the pedal the slave cylinder rod would move the shift fork about 3/4".

 

[mkiiichip]

Does it feel like it will go into gear, without the motor running?
Was the tranny stored on end, on the bellhousing?

 

[S.A. supra]

If you need help bleeding it let me know.

 

[Poodles]

Even if the clutch wasn't working at all, it should go into gear with the engine off.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

It goes into gear with the engine off. Just not when the car is running. I should have clarified that. If I start it in first gear with the clutch all the way in the car jumps foward.
Trans was laying in its natural flat position on my creeper when it was out of my car. The only time I had it on its bellhousing was the day I cleaned all of the grime off of it.

---------- Post added at 10:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 10:54 PM ----------

If you need help bleeding it let me know.

I'll let you know. I'm going to try that one man bleeder kit first. Hopefully that works.

 

[crisp]

Adjust the play in your clutch pedal per the TSRM and see what happens.




-crisp

 

[OfnaRcR4]

All i can say is make sure its bled properly.. That and make sure your clutch pedal is adjusted properly. After that you're looking at MC, lines of improper installation or improper bleeding.

Try puming it with the bleeder open, then close the bleeder and release that pedal, open depress and repeat. To make it easier get a canister of used (or new) brake fluid and attach a vacuum line to the bleeder screw and have it dump into the canister of fluid and loosen the bleeder up. Pump the pedal until you stop seeing bubbles come out.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Thanks, I'll do that tomorrow as well.

---------- Post added at 11:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:07 PM ----------

All i can say is make sure its bled properly.. That and make sure your clutch pedal is adjusted properly. After that you're looking at MC, lines of improper installation or improper bleeding.

Try puming it with the bleeder open, then close the bleeder and release that pedal, open depress and repeat. To make it easier get a canister of used (or new) brake fluid and attach a vacuum line to the bleeder screw and have it dump into the canister of fluid and loosen the bleeder up. Pump the pedal until you stop seeing bubbles come out.

I've tried that bleed method and still would get into gear while the car was running. I have not tried to adjust the play yet. I'll do both tomorrow and see what happens.

 

[OfnaRcR4]

Yeah mine had the same issue. Put in a new master cyl and that still didn't fix it. Turns out I just needed to adjust the pedal.

 

[metaphysico]

I don't care for the old pump and hold stuff, it does not give the best results. Best thing I find for brakes or clutch bleeding is open the bleeder, have someone push the pedal down, then close the bleeder, lift the pedal, rinse and repeat. If you pump the pedal you are "sloshing" the fluid and the air making the air turn into smaller air bubbles that are harder to get out. Also if your just bleeding the clutch you can do it yourself, I do it all the time, albeit its not fun, you have to open the bleeder come out from under the car and push the pedal down, it will stay to the floor as long as the bleeder is open, go back under the car and close the bleeder pull pedal off floor and repeat. It sucks getting under the car and back out but I never have any help with cars so I have gotten used to doing things myself.

 

[Poodles]

Have to pump the pedal to build pressure. On the clutch though, you can simply gravity bleed.

 

[mkiiichip]

Im with you poodles, 95% of all bleeding (brakes and clutches) can be done by gravity bleeding. I just speed up the process with a hand pump on the master cyl.

Its amazing the exhausting confusing processes people come up with, to get air out.

 

[IJ.]

MityVac and a one man bleed bottle = done.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Ok, I finally got around to it after some honey do's. I bled it with that one man kit I bought from NAPA. I didn't see any more bubbles going through the clear hose. I did it several times just to make sure.
I took out the drivers seat and snuck under the dash to adjust any freeplay I might have had. I took out all freeplay, and still didn't do the trick. Not going in gear.
Later this afternoon I'm going to take out the clutch master cylinder and tear it down. I want to see what the internals look like. Of course I could just buy a new one and skip the tear down and inspection.
If that's not it then the only part I'd need to replace is the pressure plate. I'm dreading doing that, but if it's necessary.... so be it.


Again, it goes into gear with the car off. When it's running it doesn't. Clutch disc is installed the correct way.

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Back again. Finally had some time to take the clutch master off. I disassembled it to see what the inner working look like. The cylinder bore has scoring and corrosion in it. The piston has scoring on it, and the rubber cups worn. There was some black gunk sitting in the reservoir cup. Probably the worn out rubber cups. I think it seen better days and time for a replacement. I'll get one, install it, and hopefully return with some good news. Wish me luck.

P.S. You have to be a damn contortionist to get the dang thing out working under the dash. I had to remove the driver seat, and my arms still looked like pretzels working underneath the dash. That's no place for a big boy.

 

[S.A. supra]

Lol, I know the feeling I usually have to 69 the steering wheel, With my feet up on the head rest.

 

[Poodles]

Should be a black float that sits in the res.

But yeah, it's a nightmare to get under there, and I'm a small guy, I can't imagine other people doing it :rofl:

 

[crisp]

Try the job as part of converting an A/T to M/T AND all the related "stuff" under the dash! Plumbing, clutch pedal... etc... and I did it without seat removal. I do believe I did the "69" routine several times as well!:biglaugh:


It's a job for Mr. MOTRIN!





-crisp

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

The black float is in there, and doesn't look deteriorated at all.
No auto parts store in town has the clutch master cylinder that looks like the one I have. This one.

Everybody in town has this one. The line and banjo bolt connects on the other side. Looks different, hooks up different.

I was going to order the one in the first pic off of ebay (~$50 shipped), but I'm afraid it will be a dud. I looked into getting an OEM unit from Toyota but it's twice the price as the ebay one. It's not fair because the one from the second pic is only $24.99 at most auto parts stores. Oh well. What can I do. I guess I'll order the ebay one and cross my fingers.


BTW, has anybody heard of Centric Parts, because I'm about to take a chance on them.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Not to take away from your thread but can someone explain why storing a gearbox on it's bellhousing is bad?