Car stuttering and shaking codes 34, 43, 51, and 52

[Mikek3]

So here's the story I go to drive my car for the first time since I bought it and had the turbo rebuilt I start going and everything seems fine I drive around and let it warm up a little then I go WOT and it starts pulling hard to 5psi but when it hits 8psi it starts shaking and sputtering and when I let off it died. I start it back up by letting off the clutch and it is acting like when you see someone driving stick and the car is lurching forward and back it died like five times and was impossible to start so I just barely made it the two blocks back home

Afterwards I check got codes and get 34, 43, 51, and 52.
Where should I start?

 

[92TealSupra]

So here's the story I go to drive my car for the first time since I bought it and had the turbo rebuilt I start going and everything seems fine I drive around and let it warm up a little then I go WOT and it starts pulling hard to 5psi but when it hits 8psi it starts shaking and sputtering and when I let off it died. I start it back up by letting off the clutch and it is acting like when you see someone driving stick and the car is lurching forward and back it died like five times and was impossible to start so I just barely made it the two blocks back home

Afterwards I check got codes and get 34, 43, 51, and 52.
Where should I start?

Codes:

34.) Turbo Pressure signal
43.) Starter Signal
51.) Air conditioner switch or neutral start switch signal
52.) Knock sensor signal

The turbo that you had "rebuilt" is it a stock ct-26 or an upgraded one? An upgraded one with the stock wastegate will still make more power then a stock ct-26 with it.

Well, sense your car didn't start, "you said it was hard to turn over" was the starter turning well though? I would check your connectors to see if there is any corrosion on them.

Your neutral start switch also may be causing you issues, I am not really aware of what happens when this code pops up, IJ, or Jdub will do aa better job of explaining that to you.

The knock sensor on the other hand here, can come up a lot. many epople still deal with this, check your wiring and make sure everything is great on it. check to make sure it's plugged in too.

Hope this helped slightly.

 

[rawmk3]

So here's the story I go to drive my car for the first time since I bought it and had the turbo rebuilt I start going and everything seems fine I drive around and let it warm up a little then I go WOT and it starts pulling hard to 5psi but when it hits 8psi it starts shaking and sputtering and when I let off it died. I start it back up by letting off the clutch and it is acting like when you see someone driving stick and the car is lurching forward and back it died like five times and was impossible to start so I just barely made it the two blocks back home

Afterwards I check got codes and get 34, 43, 51, and 52.
Where should I start?

Well the codes are for as follows....
34. turbo pressure signal
43. starter signal
51. a/c switch / neutral start switch signal
52. knock sensor

I would start with pulling your EFI fuse and resetting your codes. Then try it again on a drive around the block ( so u can push home if needed) and when it dies clutch it, pull over, and check codes again. Cause turbo pressure signal could be your over boosting and your OEM gauge is crap. Or your boost pressure sender is bad. The starter signal and neutral switch could be cause of how u tried starting it. And knock sensor if im not mistaken can kill the car if it is reading incorrectly. There are alot of people that rewire those. Im sure others will chime in, But I would suggest figuring out what it actually is first. Also, what gas are you running? I see people using low grade gas, and if your under boost, and detonate, that is bad. Higher octane means less likelyhood of preignition.

 

[Mikek3]

Codes:

34.) Turbo Pressure signal
43.) Starter Signal
51.) Air conditioner switch or neutral start switch signal
52.) Knock sensor signal

The turbo that you had "rebuilt" is it a stock ct-26 or an upgraded one? An upgraded one with the stock wastegate will still make more power then a stock ct-26 with it.

Well, sense your car didn't start, "you said it was hard to turn over" was the starter turning well though? I would check your connectors to see if there is any corrosion on them.

Your neutral start switch also may be causing you issues, I am not really aware of what happens when this code pops up, IJ, or Jdub will do aa better job of explaining that to you.

The knock sensor on the other hand here, can come up a lot. many epople still deal with this, check your wiring and make sure everything is great on it. check to make sure it's plugged in too.

Hope this helped slightly.

The turbo is a stock ct-26, also the starter was ghetto rigged by the previous owner it was turning over well but it would stutter and die. I figure the starter signal code has nothing to do with my problem. Would a ripped pcv hose be a big problem? I also have no cover on my cps would this cause an issue? I really appreciate the help

 

[Mikek3]

rawmk3 I am running 93octane fuel and have an aftermarket boost gauge if that helps also have a custom 3inch dp (crappy one) lightweight fidanza flywheel and cometic mhg with arp head bolts

 

[jdub]

Code 34 is fuel cut - that's why the car "bucked" at WOT hitting 8 psi boost.
It sounds like to me you popped an IC pipe or fitting. A ripped PCV hose could easily contribute to this...all of the hoses need to be in good condition (and in place) for this motor to run right.

Code 51 is the TPS - most likely it's out of adjustment. A code 51 will occur every time with the AC button depressed or depressing the gas pedal while reading codes. Search here or look at the TRSM on how to adjust the TPS.

Code 52 is the knock sensor or the KS circuit. Most likely it's the wiring...Shaeff sells a re-wire kit for the KS problem. A code 52 will cause the TCCS to pull timing...a lot. The car will run like crap until it is fixed.

When you fix a code, you need to pull the EFI fuse to clear codes in TCCS memory. Then drive and re-check the codes. In this case, code 51 will auto clear (not a stored code), code 34 will clear until you hit fuel cut again (it is stored), code 52 will need to be cleared once your re-wire both KS (also a stored code).

You need a CPS cover to keep crap out of the CPS...you are asking for problems not having one. A new CPS is $600+

 

[Mikek3]

I did hit the gas while checking codes so thats probably where the code 51 came from. Is a knock sensor rewire difficult? Do i have to remove anything? im gonna go today and get some rubber hose for my pcv and start there im prolly gonna get a full used cps cause mine leaks oil also, i also need a good multi meter thanks for all the help i will update as soon as i fix the pcv i will go for a another test drive, cant go far as i have no license plate or insurance so if need be i can push it home.

 

[jdub]

Check all of your IC piping/connectors from the turbo, to the IC, to the TB...the rubber connector attaching the 3000 pipe to the TB is often cracked and is very hard to see.

Also check the accordion hose for cracks/leaks.

 

[shaeff]

And knock sensor if im not mistaken can kill the car if it is reading incorrectly.

You're mistaken, see Jdub's post. (#6)

 

[dumbo]

http://www.supras.com/06/techcenter/display.php?QID=69

damn good write up, i did this for mine when it threw the code 52, i went na-t so its a lil different(spliced both wires together at ecu) but for you should work perfect

 

[Mikek3]

Pipe on the bottom of the turbo popped off at eight pounds :3d_frown: replaced my pcv hoses installed my egr and popped that hose back on and went for another test drive and it popped back off at eight pounds, i think i need a new one this ones ripped at the top and when you tighten it it just opens the split and never really gets tight

 

[jdub]

Yep...what you described earlier had all the attributes of a split/popped IC hose. Check all your other connectors too...high chance of finding another bad one due to the age/brittleness of the rubber. That should solve your code 34 problem till you hit 12-14 psi of boost.

You need to get the code 52 fixed as well...like I said, it will run like crap till you do.

 

[Mikek3]

well i got it to stay on by tighening the crap out of the clamp and went for another run this time it stayed on for 8psi but after i let off the car died an then i checked codes again and now i also have code 22 and 24 along with all the previous codes cause i never cleared them i will clear them tonight and go around the block again tomorrow