Car starts and idles fine now but wont go past 3000rpm

[Kevin]

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so i got it to idle. i set the timing to 10*btdc. i took the jumper out and check and it advanced to about 12*.. so i take the car out.. i drive.. it wont go past about 3000 rpm.. it doesnt seem like any limiter .. it feels like i just wont go past it. sorry for the vague description..

this is a vid of it idling http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GR0EJ2HmxHA

btw i cant find this connector??

(the white connector)


also... my temp gauge doesnt work anymore??? it doesnt even budge..
also.. my oil pressure gauge is shot up to MAX do you think it's broken?



EDIT. Got things above fixed. New problem on post 35

 

[IJ.]

Check the AFM connector

 

[tlo86]

just want to throw it out there when my car wouldn't go past 3k rpm it was because i forgot to tighten a ic pipe connector all the way

and your timing could be off.. thats another thing that wouldnt let me go past any other certain RPM..

 

[rayall01]

Limp mode locks it at 3000 rpm. Check the AFM plug like IJ said.

 

[Kevin]

hopefully its a simple fix
this is my first actual post in this forum other then buying stuff off the classifieds!! lol i usually post at toyota supra forums net but i like the responses from here! thanks

 

[turbotoy]

The white connector in question goes to the theft deterrent horn.

Your issue is almost certainly AFM signal related.

 

[Kevin]

ok guys. i checked my afm connector and it seems fine..
heres a vid of it driving.. btw sorry again for that bad quality.. i used my shitty phone.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X8GmwkUmf9c

any help would be appreciated.. i dont even know anymore

 

[Kevin]

btw limp mode locks it ar 3000 rpm? i can go a little past it

 

[rayall01]

It's not gonna be exactly at 3000. Many factors can contribute to it being a little different than exactly 3000 rpm.

 

[Kevin]

kk. so the car's running in limp mode. soo how do i check if the connector to the afm is good.. other then making sure its not broken or dirty.. and how do i check if my afm is good? i dont see why it wouldnt be good it was working before i took it off.

 

[NewWestSupras]

Try cleaning the male and female side of the plug with contact cleaner, check the integrity of the wires as well. Pull your efi fuse for a min to two. See if that solves, if not re check codes, and perhaps try a different afm. gl.

 

[jdub]

What's the condition of the accordion (intake) hose?

Have you pulled the ECU codes?

 

[Kevin]

i havent pulled ecu codes. (hook it up to some kind of scanning tool).. i did put the diagnostics jumper in t and e1 and got code 52 ( i have a broken knock sensor)

my accordian hose is good. but the lip of the hose that starts at the cold side of turbo going to the intercooler is cracked. and also the coupler between the 3000 pipe and the throttle body is also cracked... i dont really see why that would cause it to run in limp mode (if that's what i am experiencing in my video)

 

[jdub]

i havent pulled ecu codes. (hook it up to some kind of scanning tool).. i did put the diagnostics jumper in t and e1 and got code 52 ( i have a broken knock sensor)

my accordian hose is good. but the lip of the hose that starts at the cold side of turbo going to the intercooler is cracked. and also the coupler between the 3000 pipe and the throttle body is also cracked... i dont really see why that would cause it to run in limp mode (if that's what i am experiencing in my video)

If you know you have code 52 (that needs to be fixed), you "pulled" ECU codes when you jumped the diagnostic terminal.

Fix (replace) both cracked hoses and see what happens

BTW - "limp mode" is actually a poor name for two different things - fail safe mode or back-up mode...I wish guys would use the correct terminology. Fail safe (there are actually 9 different "modes" based on sensor failures) uses memory data to allow the TCCS to function or shut the engine down if a hazard is anticipated. The back-up mode of operation is due to an ECU processor problem and assures operation of basic TCCS functions...engine timing and injector duration via a back-up IC using 3 set values according to STA and IDL conditions. It's purpose is to allow the motor to run and get you some where to fix it vs stranding you on the side of the road.

Excessive air bypassing the AFM (especially in combo with a boost leak) will cause a condition that looks a lot like AFM fail safe...like when both an intake and IC hose are cracked.

 

[92TealSupra]

Jdub. Would you be able to tell by maybe slowly accelerating the car not into boost? If it were to still cut would it possibility be somethign else?

thanks.

 

[Kevin]

i'll check everything after work tonight. for hoses and whatnot. but would cracked hoses cause this? they are just cracked at the lip where the connections are.

i'll try slowly accelerating too. i'm pretty sure i did. but i'll do it even slowler tonight.

 

[tlo86]

i'll check everything after work tonight. for hoses and whatnot. but would cracked hoses cause this? they are just cracked at the lip where the connections are.

i'll try slowly accelerating too. i'm pretty sure i did. but i'll do it even slowler tonight.

it can yes! just depends on how bad it is really.. especially inside.
not really convinced it was your afm ..

teal, if air is still escaping it wont act much different. my car would pull nice and fine up until that 3kish mark no matter the throttle and then struggle.

also if it doesn't pull nice and fine and stops at a RPM i would still double check that timing.

is there any reason its set to 10deg? for tdc? ive never really asked and i have seen a few people talk about putting it at 5 or 10

 

[Kevin]

What's the condition of the accordion (intake) hose?

Have you pulled the ECU codes?

ok so i pulled the codes. and i get 24 and 52 i know 52 is because of my broken knock sensor.. what's 24?

 

[jdub]

IAT sensor...it's in the AFM and is one of the fail safe codes. The ECU substitutes 20 deg C for the temp used in it's calculations. Before you ask...it should not cause your problem by itself.

Did you replace the TB connector and the accordion hose yet?

 

[Kevin]

IAT sensor...it's in the AFM and is one of the fail safe codes. The ECU substitutes 20 deg C for the temp used in it's calculations. Before you ask...it should not cause your problem by itself.

Did you replace the TB connector and the accordion hose yet?

i did a temporary fix of the tb connector (tape.. lots of it)

and the accordian hose is fine.

so wat exactly does the code mean?