Car Showing signs on BHG *crys*

[TRDownShift]

Ok So after only 2 months of running the car around town today it started pushing coolant, So my question is if there was no exchange of fluids and the car didn't overheat (I cant besure as the water temp gauge gave out on me in the same trip, but i still had a rad full of coolant so I'm guessing no overheat..)

Can I Simply pull the valve covers and re-torque the head bolts (stupid me I bought the ARP BOLTS not studs...) Or am I about to bend over and take another rebuild up the ass... T.T

I should mention that the car has been giving me little "hints" over the past few weeks, like the coolant in the backup tank vanishing into thin air once in a blue moon, or I would just for a second get a faint "coolant" smell as I got out of the car though never found any leak, and just this morning I found only a few small drops on the ground under the car.

I know it's all leading to BHG but Seeing as I Found it before it went full on BHG Do you think I can just re-torque the head bolts and go along my way?

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

When did you install the ARP head bolts? Did you do a head gasket job when you did that, or just replaced the bolts? Which headgasket is currently on the car? Have you check your dipstick to see any evidence of milkshake?
Yes, it sounds like classic BHG. Congratulations, is this your first one? And no, you can't just go in there and tighten it up.

 

[TRDownShift]

oh no, I'm on my second one, The first time I did it I used an OE Ishino head gasket and I had the head machined and checked for cracks and I torqued the bolts down to 90ft/lbs over 3 passes... I haven't checked the dipstick yet but I did check the oil cap itself and it looks fine (was the first place I found "the milkshake" last time) and the coolant has no oil in it, though for some reason my water temp gauge has stopped working completely and I have no idea why... tomorrow I'll be trying my best to ward off the evil BHG as right now I'm in no shape to go through with a rebuild (making almost no money and behind on over half my bills) and the supra is my D.D... (long story.... short one go's... no money... bills, sells DD... pays bills fixes the poopra) \

SO what are the best "quick make the car hold water till I have money for a swap" fixes?

Oh and will re-torquing it help at all? even if it doesn't fix it will it hold it off for a few months if i drive like grandma?

 

[Turbo Habanero]

I'd check the clutch fan/water pump and sensors on the thermostat housing. Also if you look for coolant leaking behind the head any pin hole leak of coolant can cause overheating.

all and all if you know how to do the work a OEM Head gasket from driftmotion is $80 and get a Head Gasket Kit off ebay for $60 just don't use there head gasket toss that sucker in the trash. Redo the gasket could get it done in 2days if that with a buddy.

Just clean the living hell out of the head and block and make sure to flush oil out as to you don't want to end up with rod knock in a month cause of water in the oil all and $250 and you can do a headgasket job

---------- Post added at 06:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:57 PM ----------

Also a compression check could help out alot to see if its BHG if 2 cylinders next to each other have low compression that's were the gasket failed

 

[Compton74]

And also before you continue all this work, i suggest looking into getting the coolant temp gauge fixed, although the stock one is unaccurate and pretty lousy, something is better then nothing.

 

[TRDownShift]

So I did a compression test today.... only did the first 3 cylinders, seemed pointless to keep going but... #1:40PSI #2:150PSI #3:130PSI... I Really thinks the head bolts backed out cause thats just stupid low on cylinder 1... tomorrow i'll be pulling the valve corvers and re-torquing to see if i can get an compression back.

 

[AFQC]

Roughly where on the engine did you see the leak coming from?