car problems...

s383mmber1

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Oct 31, 2005
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Alright heres the situation:

So i just got my NA-T running, and when i drive it down the road, i cant bring it above around 2K RPMS. It jsut automatticlly bring my RPMS down, and the car hesitates heavily. After it does that, if i stop and let it idle, it dies. It wont start after for a long time.

Its throwing code 11 - ECU

My next problem is that my timing is WAY off....CPS set at 0 degrees and so if the cams/crank. the car runs and idles pretty well, except for the problem above.The timings at around 11 oclock (checked with a timing light). No matter how i set the timing otherwise, even retarding it 1 degree at a time, it wont run unless at 0.

Im thinking that the first problem is a fuel problem....injectors? Pump? anyone had this problem before?

-William
 
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s383mmber1

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Nick M said:
11 has nothing to do with engine timing either. One problem at a time.

I pulled the efi fuse, bam code 11 gone.

I pushed it pretty far up to my local mechanic guy :(

My timing off, and now its a major thing...not just CPS..

Time to go rip my engine apart...
 

Nick M

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The engine does not not need to be ripped apart to reset the cams. Just remove the belt and turn them straight up, with the bottom at zero.
 

s383mmber1

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My mechanic seems to think that the problem is the with cams themselves. The timing is 180degrees off. He seems to think that the cams are not put in correctly, and there for the valves are not opening at the right times....Something about setting them at combustion instead of exhaust, or the other way around. Does this seem like a possiblity?
 

Nick M

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Yes, that is what is meant by out of time. The cam wasn't necessarily installed incorrectly. The dowel pin prevents that. But you were not TDC on cylinder number one of compression. At least that is a logical guess.
 

suprastanger507mgte

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Apr 5, 2005
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s383mmber1 said:
My mechanic seems to think that the problem is the with cams themselves. The timing is 180degrees off. He seems to think that the cams are not put in correctly, and there for the valves are not opening at the right times....Something about setting them at combustion instead of exhaust, or the other way around. Does this seem like a possiblity?

Yeah this usually happens when you put the timing belt on before checking to make sure the Number 1 piston is at tdc - The timing marks on the two cam gears should be on top side of the gears and matched up with the timing gear back plate.
 

johnathan1

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Aug 19, 2005
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s383mmber1 said:
How would the car run with if the camshafts were 180 degrees off from the crankshaft?

Would run like crap...barely idle. But if all of your timing marks are lined up, then it isn't 180 degrees off...

I remember when my car had a loose battery terminal, it ran like crap, like would barely idle, and it threw a code 11...tightened the clamp, and it as fine...something you can check...
 

Reign_Maker

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Aug 31, 2005
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Will, you can not put the cams in wrong, its impossible, they only go in ONE way... Once they are in, you can adjust them to where they need to be...

Make sure all the plugs and wires are installed correctly...

Pull your timing belt, remove your #1 spark plug, put your finger in the whole, rotate the crank *or have someone else do it if you cant reach* until you feel air pushing on your finger, or the compression stroke, and keep turning the crank until the notch on the pulley lines up with the "0"... Then, making sure your cam dowel pins are installed, rotate each cam so the notch lines up with the notches on the back cam plate... Now, pull your CPS, reinstall it correctly... *cant remember off the top of my head how to do it, but Im sure you know or someone can chime in on that* Once the CPS is reinstalled, put the timing belt back on...

A car WILL run when its 180* out, but it will run like absolute shit...
 

s383mmber1

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Reign_Maker said:
A car WILL run when its 180* out, but it will run like absolute shit...

That about describes my car right now. And for some reason im basically hitting "fuel cut" at 2000 rpm at 0 boost....

So wait, what could cause my timing to be 180 degrees off then? My friend said that we may have set the timing to compression instead of exhaust or something like that.....
 
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suprahooked

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s383mmber1 said:
That about describes my car right now. And for some reason im basically hitting "fuel cut" at 2000 rpm at 0 boost....

So wait, what could cause my timing to be 180 degrees off then? My friend said that we may have set the timing to compression instead of exhaust or something like that.....
Hey Will when you get some free time Pm me and i will try to explain to you how to set the timing. I just had surgery and should be online a lot now for the next 2 weeks. John
 

shaeff

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the base timing is set correctly. the only problem that there could be with it is that the timing belt is soaked in oil, thus could be stretched- causing things to not line up perfectly.

suprahooked, i set the base timing. #1 piston at TDC, crank at 0*, both cams at 12 o'clock. i installed the CPS correctly, too. i know that i did. hell, i followed my own directions when doing it!

i'm starting to think that the ECU is toasted. (code 11?). i know for a fact that the timing was not 180* out. to do that, the #1 piston would have had to be at the bottom of the stroke, or the cams notches up side down...

-shaeff
 

suprahooked

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shaeff said:
the base timing is set correctly. the only problem that there could be with it is that the timing belt is soaked in oil, thus could be stretched- causing things to not line up perfectly.

suprahooked, i set the base timing. #1 piston at TDC, crank at 0*, both cams at 12 o'clock. i installed the CPS correctly, too. i know that i did. hell, i followed my own directions when doing it!

i'm starting to think that the ECU is toasted. (code 11?). i know for a fact that the timing was not 180* out. to do that, the #1 piston would have had to be at the bottom of the stroke, or the cams notches up side down...

-shaeff
Has he changed since you set it ?


William : Chris had it set right unless it was changed then try Jakes ecu or borrow one.
 

Poodles

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Jul 22, 2006
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no reason to test for the compression stroke as we're non-interferance

remove timing belt off the cams, put the crank to 0, put the cams to 0, reinstall timing belt putting tension on the intake side, tighten idler (to specified torque, overtorquing WILL cuase blowby in #1), pull the CPS and zero it, then put it back in straight, start it all up and set timing

it's really easy....
 

MK3.0dudeman

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Mar 12, 2007
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Reign_Maker said:
Pull your timing belt, remove your #1 spark plug, put your finger in the whole, rotate the crank *or have someone else do it if you cant reach* until you feel air pushing on your finger, or the compression stroke, and keep turning the crank until the notch on the pulley lines up with the "0"... Then, making sure your cam dowel pins are installed, rotate each cam so the notch lines up with the notches on the back cam plate... Now, pull your CPS, reinstall it correctly... *cant remember off the top of my head how to do it, but Im sure you know or someone can chime in on that* Once the CPS is reinstalled, put the timing belt back on...

bin doing that since the 6th grade:icon_lol:

don't worry it will be alright just take your time with it