dirgle said:
Yeah, good point. That'll show up in the oil pretty quick too. Either way, he's taking a chance by driving it until it's figured out.
car overheating!!!!
- Thread starter johnathan1
- Start date
Yeah, good point. That'll show up in the oil pretty quick too. Either way, he's taking a chance by driving it until it's figured out.
okay, another update, i was on the freeway again, and for the first time since the last incident i was boosting again, and my car started to do the same thing (fluctuating temp.guage, no o2 code or light) and so I stopped the car immediately, looked at the overflow, and the level was a bit high, but not overflowing...
It is soo weird, it only seems to do this on the freeway, when I boost...a while back i went on the freeway, and was VERY conservative, NO boosting, and didn't go over 60MPH, and drove the car 64 miles! with no problems... so it seems to be a boost related overheating problem...
I did the block test about 2 days ago, and it came up negative, the fluid stayed perfectly blue! What is going on?? any further help is VERY appreciated!
(also, post incident, after the car cools down, the overflow is magically empty... the coolant seems to be disappearing, and I know that it didn't come out of the overflow...)
It is soo weird, it only seems to do this on the freeway, when I boost...a while back i went on the freeway, and was VERY conservative, NO boosting, and didn't go over 60MPH, and drove the car 64 miles! with no problems... so it seems to be a boost related overheating problem...
I did the block test about 2 days ago, and it came up negative, the fluid stayed perfectly blue! What is going on?? any further help is VERY appreciated!
(also, post incident, after the car cools down, the overflow is magically empty... the coolant seems to be disappearing, and I know that it didn't come out of the overflow...)
N
NDBoost
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word of advice, this happend to me. park the supra NOW, dont drive it anymore!
You dont want a BHG turning into something more potentially damaging. Park the supra and do a full test on the head, check compression, leak down etc etc.
I had the SAME problems your having and it indeed was a BHG. At first i would only blow coolant out of the radiator under boost on freeways. It slowly progressed and became worse; to the point where i would have a constant stream of coolant coming out of the overflow hose. I blew across what appeared to be a minimum of 4 cylinders..
Dont believe me:
http://zerocool.7mpwr.com/mikes head gasket/
edit:
before ppl start the flaming on my pics, i bought the car w/ BHG and the previous owner did not realize this was the case. A majority of the damage in those pictures was already done.
You dont want a BHG turning into something more potentially damaging. Park the supra and do a full test on the head, check compression, leak down etc etc.
I had the SAME problems your having and it indeed was a BHG. At first i would only blow coolant out of the radiator under boost on freeways. It slowly progressed and became worse; to the point where i would have a constant stream of coolant coming out of the overflow hose. I blew across what appeared to be a minimum of 4 cylinders..
Dont believe me:
http://zerocool.7mpwr.com/mikes head gasket/
edit:
before ppl start the flaming on my pics, i bought the car w/ BHG and the previous owner did not realize this was the case. A majority of the damage in those pictures was already done.
wow, id better not drive it then. it just sucks because i kinda have to. to get to school... its really not that far though, almost a mile away from me... I just don't want rod knock, i'm becoming like a total autochondriac, listening for any little noise. lol
Well, i have been gathering parts, I have the head gasket (Thanks bigaaron) and i just ordered the ARP studs, and will get a gaskets set on eBay hopefully... does anyone lknow of a place I can get a gasket set that will include everything I need for relatively cheap?? I know that they go on eBay for like $70-$100... I just need to spend as little money as possible as I am on a very tight budget... god, sucks.... but i'll deal with it, because I love my Supra unconditionally!!!
PS: Does anyone have any tips for me reguarding head gasket repair, since Iv never done it.. the closest I have been was when I retorqued the headbolts on my N/A!
Well, i have been gathering parts, I have the head gasket (Thanks bigaaron) and i just ordered the ARP studs, and will get a gaskets set on eBay hopefully... does anyone lknow of a place I can get a gasket set that will include everything I need for relatively cheap?? I know that they go on eBay for like $70-$100... I just need to spend as little money as possible as I am on a very tight budget... god, sucks.... but i'll deal with it, because I love my Supra unconditionally!!!
PS: Does anyone have any tips for me reguarding head gasket repair, since Iv never done it.. the closest I have been was when I retorqued the headbolts on my N/A!
N
NDBoost
Guest
as ive always told every single person that has questions about headgasket work. DO NOT FORGET TO RE-TORQUE after 500 miles, ive heard bad horror stories about studs coming loose and such. It takes 1-2 hrs to retorque(at max) and its plenty worth the pain.johnathan1 said:
If your going MHG, its always best to lap the head AND block. Given you do not have alot of money or time(maybe) get that head and block as straight as possible and as smooth as possible. Although alot of people say its not necessary, use permatex brake quiet OR copper spray a gasket. It cant hurt (so ive heard) and can only add another layer of protection against another possible BHG.
I Personally torqued my MHG to 95 Ft lbs, but im sure alot of people will tell you a different #.
EDIT:
Forgot to mention 1 more thing, the most important thing of all: take your time! dont half ass anything or rig anything because you will pay for it in the end. Do it right or do it twice. someone correct me on anything ive said if its wrong.
what is lapping?? is it difficult to do?? would it help when using a stock hg?
and how do you tell if there IS in fact coolant in your oil?? My car doesn't have any white stuff on the cap or dipstick...
and how do you tell if there IS in fact coolant in your oil?? My car doesn't have any white stuff on the cap or dipstick...
cool, i saw the lapping tool. is it expensive, where can i get it, and what does it require?
do i have to lap the head if it is already going to be machined?
do i have to lap the head if it is already going to be machined?
Sabotage: Did you replace your hg with a stock one, and if so, did you lap the block?
I was told that I could just scrub it really good with like a scotchbrite pad, and that would do, what do i use to clean it? brake parts cleaner?
I was told that I could just scrub it really good with like a scotchbrite pad, and that would do, what do i use to clean it? brake parts cleaner?
N
NDBoost
Guest
if your going with a stock HG, just clean and prep the block really well. Use WD40 and gasket remover spray and some sort of rough cloth/material that wont flakeoff into your cylinders.johnathan1 said:
Although regretful i used steel wool and a green scrubby pad to get my surface really clean. Just dont crank the cylinders at all until you properly blow each one out VERY good. put papertowels or cloths in the cylinders or use tape to block them off.
For doing a stock HG it is not required to machine the block if its not that bad (use a straight edge and measure from one corner diagnally across to the opposite corner.
Just clean the gasket off get the block nice and clean (be careful not to scratch the cylinder walls). Considering ive never done a Stock HG replacement, im not sure if you can use copper spray/permatex on it or not. Slap your HG on and torque down to 85+ft lbs.
As far as MHG its the same process, use permatex brake quiet or copper spray a gasket. Lapp the head AND block and put it on torque to 85+ ft lbs.
If you do not have the funds to lapp both head and block make sure the block is VERY straight and ALL of the gasket/pits are removed from the block of course youll be scrubbing forever
alot of people swear against only lapp'ing the head and not the block but if your prep work is good enough and you did the proper steps; it should last under stock-moderate boost. But it of course is always better to have that extra buffer so take the time and have both head and block lapped
the lapping tool I have came from reg remier. IIRC it was in the range of 250-350.00 range. It is my buddies I just borrowed it from him and bought some of the cutting compound off him. Lapping the block is time consuming and I was just unhappy that the machine shop couldnt get it any smoother. Not only that but there is just a little bit of pitting I want to get rid of. Not that they cut it rough but I would have felt much better if it was smoother.
The head wont take nearly as long as the block cause the head is aluminum and it will be easier to cut.
The head wont take nearly as long as the block cause the head is aluminum and it will be easier to cut.
N
NDBoost
Guest
can you describe the process of the lapping tool, i saw pics of it but couldnt understand how it worked..Justin727 said:
sure.
first you smear some compound on the block and a little on the lapping tool.
Pull out ur dowel pins first of course but you should already know that.
set your lapping tool on the front of the block.
Not putting any weight on the tool you just push and pull. In a big figure 8 motion or a big X. Starting from oneside of the X go to the next point and keeping it on the block similar to the figure 8 I was telling u.
first you smear some compound on the block and a little on the lapping tool.
Pull out ur dowel pins first of course but you should already know that.
set your lapping tool on the front of the block.
Not putting any weight on the tool you just push and pull. In a big figure 8 motion or a big X. Starting from oneside of the X go to the next point and keeping it on the block similar to the figure 8 I was telling u.
ok, so I just use some steel wool on the block (don't rub very hard, right? just light scrubbing?) What type of solution do I use? Just water or what?
And why were you regretful for using steel wool?
And why were you regretful for using steel wool?
because it scratches the surface and you dont need any scratches. you need it as smooth as possible for a MHG.
Dunno how common it is for MK3 thermostats to go out, but the temp gauge would always goes all the way up, then down again when the thermostat went bad in our Durango.
umm, so it would be safe to use steel wool on the block if I am going to stick with the stock hg?
Does the head HAVE to be lapped after is has been machined? Can i like wetsand the block or something?
Get ready for me this weekend guys!!! I have a feeling I will be posting a LOT of questions w/pics!!
Does the head HAVE to be lapped after is has been machined? Can i like wetsand the block or something?
Get ready for me this weekend guys!!! I have a feeling I will be posting a LOT of questions w/pics!!