Sorry for such a long post. I had to be detailed of everything that I did to answer any questions that might of been asked. Thanks
So recently decided that my engine bay needed a cleaning. I started with just unbolting some electrical components (ignitor, fuse box etc..). Removed horn, cruise control (didn't work), and tucked cruise harness. On passenger side took out AC lines (didn't work), disconnected some vacuum lines. After doing all this I cleaned out the engine bay and painted fire wall, and fender wells. After I put everything back together went to start car and it was idling high at cold start.
My car still needs to be tuned yet but I put on 550's, map ecu, already had aeromotive fpr and walbro fp. This was installed 7-8 months ago. It had just a base map on it that ran pretty good at idle and idle cruise. Did not boost. Just recently got an older AEM 1000 uego widband to tune it.
Back to the point. After noticing the high idle (1100-1150) RPM at cold start I let it warm up a bit and still idling high. I had my glove box out and easily able to access the ecu. So I hooked up the uego. I disconnected Mapecu yellow wire (o2 input) from stock o2 wire and connected uego wideband output. Connected ground to one of the map-ecu ground wires which is connected to the ECU computer ground. The car's afp was at like 12.5 at 1100 RPM idling -20.4 in.hg. So I started making some adjustment by decreasing fuel in those data points and idle started to drop but felt like it was getting worse like there was still to much fuel. Next thing I knew it was dieing on me. Now when I start the car it will die unless I tap the gas and let it slowly settle in at just 450 RPM (Idling) at -20.4 in.hg. If you rev the engine by tapping the gas or go WOT it will die. Now you can drive the car just fine as long as its above 1000RPM like it was before but drop below that and it will die. I even tried reloading the original map that the car ran good on and still the same result.
Now I think that the volt requirement for the yellow wire is 0-4 volt. So this might be throwing off the afp reading that the map-ecu is displaying because of it being an older still wideband it probably requires 0-5v. But at idle 450rpm it is perfect at 14.7 but will not jump up any higher than that. You can hold in the gas pedal at 700-800rpm and it will hold just fine.
Is this just in the tune or could it be something else? Did I miss something here?
So recently decided that my engine bay needed a cleaning. I started with just unbolting some electrical components (ignitor, fuse box etc..). Removed horn, cruise control (didn't work), and tucked cruise harness. On passenger side took out AC lines (didn't work), disconnected some vacuum lines. After doing all this I cleaned out the engine bay and painted fire wall, and fender wells. After I put everything back together went to start car and it was idling high at cold start.
My car still needs to be tuned yet but I put on 550's, map ecu, already had aeromotive fpr and walbro fp. This was installed 7-8 months ago. It had just a base map on it that ran pretty good at idle and idle cruise. Did not boost. Just recently got an older AEM 1000 uego widband to tune it.
Back to the point. After noticing the high idle (1100-1150) RPM at cold start I let it warm up a bit and still idling high. I had my glove box out and easily able to access the ecu. So I hooked up the uego. I disconnected Mapecu yellow wire (o2 input) from stock o2 wire and connected uego wideband output. Connected ground to one of the map-ecu ground wires which is connected to the ECU computer ground. The car's afp was at like 12.5 at 1100 RPM idling -20.4 in.hg. So I started making some adjustment by decreasing fuel in those data points and idle started to drop but felt like it was getting worse like there was still to much fuel. Next thing I knew it was dieing on me. Now when I start the car it will die unless I tap the gas and let it slowly settle in at just 450 RPM (Idling) at -20.4 in.hg. If you rev the engine by tapping the gas or go WOT it will die. Now you can drive the car just fine as long as its above 1000RPM like it was before but drop below that and it will die. I even tried reloading the original map that the car ran good on and still the same result.
Now I think that the volt requirement for the yellow wire is 0-4 volt. So this might be throwing off the afp reading that the map-ecu is displaying because of it being an older still wideband it probably requires 0-5v. But at idle 450rpm it is perfect at 14.7 but will not jump up any higher than that. You can hold in the gas pedal at 700-800rpm and it will hold just fine.
Is this just in the tune or could it be something else? Did I miss something here?