The other day I was merging unto the highway in 4th at 4000 rpm, a car pulls out infront so I do a very slow shift into 5th. The rpms drop at a normal speed but fail to halt around 1000 rpm and it just dies. I was confused on what just happened so I tested it several other times. Anytime I take the car above 3500 rpm, press the clutch and hold it in the engine just dies. Any ideas on what this could be? Solutions? Thanks * The car idles perfectly when sitting....
car dies while coasting
- Thread starter cartert
- Start date
Get back to us with any information that you can. The more we know, the faster we can pinpoint the problem. I just checking to be sure... the stock bov goes from the acordian hose the the intercooler 3000 piping? If so then, no everything is plugged up the correct way and I replaced the whole thing summer 2007.
I looked at those instructions, connected terminals E1 and TE1 but the check engine light didnt even blink once. And now that I think of it I don't think I have ever seen it come on. So now I wondering if it works. If I unplug the terminals and turn the car to on without cranking the engine the battery, antilock, e brake and several other lights come on. Should the check engine light come on along with the others?
cartert;939309 said:
Are you using a paper clip? Make sure the ends of the clip are pushed all the way down in E1 and TE1 (and make sure they don't move while you get in to crank) or the Check Engine light will just stay lit and not blink.
*EDIT: Just saw you say it's not coming on at all; If the clip is not in all the way, the Check Engine light should stay solid. So yeah, it should be on with the others. I think ABS is the only one that goes off.
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I love when my car has problems, because I find 10 more problems while trying to fix the orginal. I doubt it is the check engine light bulb, that would be way to simple. The previous owner rewired my car in the ghetto-est of ways. So the light probably doesn't work as a result of his shortcuts. I guess I'll fix the light and get back with everyone later about the codes. Thanks for all the help
cartert;939309 said:
The bulb could be burned out or removed. That way the last owner didn't have to see his light on as a reminder of unfixed problems.
Talk about the stalling a little more. If you let off the throttle rapidly, as in let it close on its own, that is when it stall? Or does it need some engine speed?
my car did the same exact thing... it started as once in a while, and it got worse per time.. it would die as soon as the throttle plate closes.. but it idled fine... and no codes either... I pulled the Idle air control valve, took it apart, cleaned the plastic bearing where the spindle move in and out.. made sure the stepper motor works as in TSRM, then installed it with a new gasket.. never had this problem ever since..
Nick M;940489 said:
If you let off the throttle rapidly and press in the clutch the rpms drop like they normally would. They just don't stop around 1000 rpm the just continue to fall, no studdering or anything. It does not do this I you alone let off the throttle, you have to press the clutch too.
In response to blade... It did it a months ago, but rarely and now it is occuring more regularly.
cartert;941347 said:
Uh oh!
If you're idling in neutral, and push in the clutch, do the RPMs drop a bit? What sort of clutch are you running?
I ask this, because there's one very good explanation for your car stalling with the clutch in: crankwalk.
Meet the crankwalk maker:
Rob- It does not die if you are sitting still and press the clutch in, only if you are driving above 3500 rpm and press the clutch in and leave it in. I'll check later to see if they drop a little, when you press it in neutral. As far as I know its the stock clutch, whatever comes in an 88' 7mgte lol.