Car cranks but won't fire - SOLVED

Sawbladz

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Mar 14, 2006
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So I have been diagnosing this for a while. The car will crank fine with no issues now but it will not try and start. This is what I have tried thus far.

-pulled the plugs. They were completely black and I thought they smelled like fuel. It may have just been the carbon or a bit of oil in the galley that fooled me.
-while I had a plug out I placed it against the head and turned it over. Did not see spark. Therefore I figured that the car had no spark and started to diagnose that.
-pulled all my coils and the subharness I made. I did the IS300 mod. Checked the primary coil resistance. All three coils had 0.9 ohms.
-Checked the subharness for continuity on the wiring and they all checked out. 0.5 ohms resitance for all three signal wires.
-Checked the placement of the coils and wires. Coils were placed on cylinders 2,3 and 6. Wires went from 2 to 5, 3 to 4, and 6 to 1. Still need to make some hold down brackets but that won't affect anything.
-I also tried to check the voltage from the terminal to the ground (head). With the ignition switch one, the TSRM says it's supposed to have 12 volts. I found it to have 0.3 volts at all terminals. This test did not make sense to be though. I would think the car should be cranking over during this test.

This is my spark issue thus far. Now on to the fuel problem.

-When I pulled the second set of plugs out, I did not smell fuel. I checked the gauge on my Aeromotive AFPR. It has zero pressure registered. So I guess this shows that my next problem is fuel. I have never had an AFPR before and I do not know what I could be doing wrong. The manual for it says that after install the key should by cycled to the on position a few times to build pressure in the system which will register on the gauge. From my understanding or our fuel pump system this will not work. I believe our pump does not turn on until the key is in the start position. Regardless, when the car is cranking it doesn't build pressure either.

So here I sit on a wednesday night, very confused. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Sawbladz

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Mar 14, 2006
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CajunKenny;1545810 said:
Run your fuel pump via the diagnostic block and see if it comes on and builds FP.

Just did this test. Jumped +B and Fp in the diagnostic block with the ignition switched to on. Nothing happened. No sound near the fuel pump and no pressure built on the gauge. How long would it take for the pressure gauge to read something?

---------- Post added at 11:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:00 PM ----------

Continued following along with the TSRM. EFI fuse is good. Both the IGN and ECU IGN fuses had cracked plastic but they passed the continuity test. Will replace them anyways but I don't see that being the problem.

---------- Post added at 11:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:14 PM ----------

Just tried to pull codes. Turned key to on, turned off all accessories (AC, stereo), jumped T to E1 and nothing. Check engine light is just constant. Even if everything was perfect this shouldn't happen. If I recall correctly, I have never been able to pull codes using this technique. Anything I'm doing wrong?
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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Following the TSRM for the FP check, you should hear the pump come on immediately. Typically you'll hear air bubbles getting pushed through the lines and fuel rail; but, it builds pressure very quickly.

Here's what I think may be happening... You can't pull codes and you can't get the FP to turn on. Are you sure that you're shorting the pins correctly? The reason I ask is because it sometimes takes me several attempts to pull codes. It helps to have someone in watching the CEL while you short the pins.

You mentioned shorting 'T' and 'E1'. Did you mean 'TE1' and 'E1'?

EDIT: I forgot to mention that you are correct. The CEL will flash constantly if no codes are present. If it stays on solid, then the pins aren't shorted. Typically, anyway...
 

Sawbladz

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On my diagnostic block it is labeled as only T. I drew a diagram and compared the online TSRM to my car and they are the same location. I don't have a TE1..I have T. lol. My car is an 88 so maybe it's just different.

I was also concerned that I was just not doing it correctly so I tried it 3 or 4 different times. I am going to go try it again with some white lithium grease for the connections. Can't hurt.
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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I had the very same problem with the COP setup. I ended up re-installing the stock coil pack and the car fired right up. Do you have the stock one you can re-install to rule out a COP problem?

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:46 PM ----------

Yeah, the 88's must be different.

And all of your fuses check out ok?
 

Sawbladz

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I suppose I could but I checked all the coils and wiring and it all checks out. I don't see where I could be going wrong with that. The fuses made more sense because I had a spare ground wire hooked up to the starter power and it made the fuel relay buzz. I have since connected those grounds to the fuel dampener bolt. I checked this location for continuity with the engine/trans and it seemed like as good a place as any for a ground. I wonder if there is something in the EFI system that got ruined from this mistake.

---------- Post added 04-08-2010 at 12:02 AM ---------- Previous post was 04-07-2010 at 11:59 PM ----------

Just to add pictures to this...

p1545848_1.jpg

Diagnostic block before I added more contact grease.
p1545848_2.jpg

After with jumped for CEL
p1545848_3.jpg

Jumped for fuel pump
p1545848_4.jpg

Light on dash with key on and jumped for CEL
p1545848_5.jpg
 

CajunKenny

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Well, all of my continuities checked out as well. I even fab'd up some brackes to hold the coils down on to the plug further. My guess is that one or even two of the coils were not making contact with their respective plugs. There is a spring inside the boot of each coil. They are covered in Di-Electric Grease. They're supposed to be anyway... ;) If they don't make adequate contact with the plug.....no spark. Mine just cranked; but, wouldn't fire. That's when I went back to the stockers...

I think you've got multiple problems here. The first one I would tackle would be the fuel pump.

Wow...your CEL doesn't even light up in the 'Key-On' position. Hmm...

---------- Post added at 09:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:11 PM ----------

Here's a thought. Measure pin +B and reference ground on your battery. There should be 12v there.
 

Sawbladz

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Nope. CEL is not on at any time. I was crazy before. Thought the constant amber light was my CEL, it was really the stop lights. I wonder if just the bulb is burned out. Maybe that's too easy.
 

Sawbladz

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jetjock;1545857 said:
He must mean constant off ;)

LOL! Completely missed your post and yes, constant off it is.

---------- Post added at 12:30 AM ---------- Previous post was at 12:27 AM ----------

Just checked from +B to chassis ground and there is almost nothing.
 

jetjock

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Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
One reason I'm hesitant to get involved in some threads. Too much confusion.

So let me see if I have this straight: you did all that fancy measuring and dickin' around in the first post yet you're expecting the engine to run with the MIL off? And you don't see a connection to it being off and the fuel pump not working, whether it's jumped or during cranking? Do I have that right? :)
 

CajunKenny

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If so, then jump from 12v on your battery to 'Fp' and see what happens.

I'm off to bed...

You're in good hands with jj. :)
 

Sawbladz

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jetjock;1545871 said:
One reason I'm hesitant to get involved in some threads. Too much confusion.

So let me see if I have this straight: you did all that fancy measuring and dickin' around in the first post yet you're expecting the engine to run with the MIL off? And you don't see a connection to it being off and the fuel pump not working, whether it's jumped or during cranking? Do I have that right? :)

It made sense at the time since I had completely rewired that section of the harness and I had never checked out the used coils I bought. I'm glad I did it just to verify that the parts should be in good working order.

Now that I have all this information I definitely see a connection here. Just not sure what would cause the B+ plug or anything else not to get power. If anything else is not clear I can certainly answer any questions to clarify for you. I'm off to put power directly to the Fp and see if I can get the pump to run.
 

jetjock

creepy-ass cracka
Jul 11, 2005
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Redacted per Title 18 USC Section 798
Sorry, sleepy time for me too.

Btw all that's gonna do is buzz the FP relay, assuming everything else is working, which it apparently isn't. Looks like the main relay isn't closing. That would explain both issues...
 

Sawbladz

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Mar 14, 2006
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When power is jumped directly to the Fp on the diagnostic block, the fuel pump relay buzzes. Unless I am missing something obvious I should probably check the relay to make sure it's still functioning alright.

EDIT: Guess I will be checking the main relay.
 

CajunKenny

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Nov 15, 2007
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Sawbladz;1545885 said:
When power is jumped directly to the Fp on the diagnostic block, the fuel pump relay buzzes.

That's what I was looking for...

Let us know what you find with the Main Relay investigation.

Good luck!