Get someone to turn the steering while you watch the rack, if the old rubbers are shagged the rack will move around a bit, I'd fit the Poly's anyway had mine in for years now.
Car cant be alligned
- Thread starter xzeror
- Start date
Nope the actual saddle mounts to the front subframe, they get oldNsoft with the heat and oil in the bay and let the rack move around a bit.
(the red bits)
(the red bits)
IJ.;1545653 said:Nope the actual saddle mounts to the front subframe, they get oldNsoft with the heat and oil in the bay and let the rack move around a bit.
(the red bits)
they are not supposed to be soft one bit correct?
A little, but not terribly soft. If they look like they're mooshing out the sides then they're probably toast (oil and other leaks get to the rubber).
IJ.;1545544 said:
Didn't say that... Don't be so sensitive (sorry, I guess?). In my 3+ lowered MKIIIs, I've had good alignments as long as the supporting suspension was good. Have not re-welded anything, 'cept a cracked rear subframe in the 87T after I got to Texas. I AM NOT speaking for other's experiences... kewl?
this is what im talking about in the right rear that the camber bolt is not the same as the left side.
Also would not having the rear sway bar connected affect its camber?
---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------
how the rears are looking :/
Also would not having the rear sway bar connected affect its camber?
---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------
how the rears are looking :/
WTF IS THAT CRAP!?!?!
Considering that bolt doesn't even use the eccentric anymore and looks extremely questionable I'm surprised the shop even touched it. Put that crap back to stock.
Considering that bolt doesn't even use the eccentric anymore and looks extremely questionable I'm surprised the shop even touched it. Put that crap back to stock.
i have no idea...im going to go look for the stock bolt:3d_frown: didnt notice it until the guy pointed it out....
Try the test I suggested with a buddy turning the steeringxzeror;1545702 said:
(I'd still swap em out anyway as the Poly's give a nicer "feel")
If a Mk3 is lowered more than 1.5" in the rear you CAN'T get the rear toe and camber even close to spec, you can have one or the other.Satan;1545703 said:
I stand by this as it's just the rear geomery there's no magic settings to get it right, if I had to choose I'd get the toe correct and live with the camber as Toe out while making the car really stable at high speed stops it turning in well (bit like driving a spool equipped car)
Camber will just wear the outside edge of the tire in time/miles, If you want it "right" on both the only way I found to achieve this was the mod I suggested.
I spent a LOT of time on the alignment rack/road testing (probably 25>30 times) when I first got the car trying every setting known to man to get something that worked and I was happy to drive (I HATED the Mk3's handling with a passion when I got it)
What I've ended up with after all this is a car that's fairly neutral, that gets excellent tire wear, will generate a sustained .95g before breaking loose on non R spec rubber and is stable at very high speeds.
While it may NOT be "perfect" it's the best compromise I've found as a road car, if I were tracking it things would be very different.
Sorry if I come off as a cunt but I've spent a lot of time on this then to have someone just dismiss it as BS pisses me off.
Can you get a pic of the adjuster cam on that bolt?xzeror;1545712 said:this is what im talking about in the right rear that the camber bolt is not the same as the left side.
Also would not having the rear sway bar connected affect its camber?
---------- Post added at 08:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:34 PM ----------
how the rears are looking :/
No the sway bar won't affect the camber setting while it's stationary.
i will test the buddy thing tommorow its to dark to see i did get the pic of the bolt. one sec
this is how the other side looks. (rear left)
(i have red poly on the sway bars that arnt connected :/)
this is how the other side looks. (rear left)
(i have red poly on the sway bars that arnt connected :/)
the first 3 pics are the one with the 2 nuts on them, and the last 4 are the left side which didnt have a problem. OH i almost forgot the guy who did the allignment showed me that the front left wheel had like a bump? like he spun the wheel and it wasnt smooth there was a spot that jumped he said it could affect the allignment. how can i tell if the rim is bent or its just the tire? and could this also be why it wasnt successfully alligned
Tire jumped or the rim jumped?
Nope shouldn't have affected the alignment as it's done static.
Just wondering if the dodgy bolt has the machined flat for the cam or of some genius has just drilled a hole in the cam....
Nope shouldn't have affected the alignment as it's done static.
Just wondering if the dodgy bolt has the machined flat for the cam or of some genius has just drilled a hole in the cam....
i have no idea i plan on going to the junkyard and pulling a camber bolt and swapping it out, i guess i will have to find out when i take it out :s
Tire jumped.
Tire jumped.
last question. would the tires being stretched affect the way the thread wears out? atleast on the rears. 255/35/18 on 18in 9.5?