ITS THE ALTERNATOR BOLT! Believe me, my dad and I couldn't lift it up cause I forgot to take that one out. Take it out and it will come off in a second.
The head would still lift up in the back, where the prying tabs are...The alternator is on the front of the engine.
I would check to see of you got all of the head bolts out...I forgot to take one out after working on the car all night, and it made it impossible to get off.
I would check to see of you got all of the head bolts out...I forgot to take one out after working on the car all night, and it made it impossible to get off.
I had a few studs that were still slightly threaded in as well so make sure that they are all out. If you have access to a hoist and lift it would be a lot easier to tell whats stuck.
Itsarodknocklifeforme said:
I think the shipping receipt on the head I sent with cams and all was just shy of 60 pounds. (No Manifolds)
i had to stand in the engine bay on the shock towers and straight arm lift mine to get it to pop off.
D
drumminforev
Guest
supaman. you inspired me to get up on the shock towers too and i eventually got it off.
first it was the stupid coolant hose way in the back, i thought there only was the one on top.
then it was the hard fuel line that i hope i didnt crack when i was pulled with all my might on the fuel rail.
then it was a front coolant hose
SO my back basically hurts and it took my 5 hours to take off all the manifolds to untangle the wiring harness, and its off.
--
However, the head and block look sad. Should i use a razor to scrape the old gasket off? Why are almost all the cooland passages clogged with orange white shit thats hard as cement. Should i remove it with a screwdriver or something?
Im just affraid i wont be able to get it smooth without sanding the hell out of it.
first it was the stupid coolant hose way in the back, i thought there only was the one on top.
then it was the hard fuel line that i hope i didnt crack when i was pulled with all my might on the fuel rail.
then it was a front coolant hose
SO my back basically hurts and it took my 5 hours to take off all the manifolds to untangle the wiring harness, and its off.
--
However, the head and block look sad. Should i use a razor to scrape the old gasket off? Why are almost all the cooland passages clogged with orange white shit thats hard as cement. Should i remove it with a screwdriver or something?
Im just affraid i wont be able to get it smooth without sanding the hell out of it.
Take a picture of the cooling passages your talking about. The passages on the intake side are partially filled, with only a small hole...don't ask me why...
And yes, you can use a razor blade, and it makes it 10x easier if you get a handle for the razor blade.
And yes, you can use a razor blade, and it makes it 10x easier if you get a handle for the razor blade.
yea im a big guy and it took me a long time to get mine off by the time i was done my legs were shaking from being strained for so long. watch that fuel line too if it breaks itll leak fuel all over whereever your car is in my case i didnt know it was broken it leaked fuel into my garage and my a/c which is in my garage picked it up and vented it into my house.
drumminforev said:
All the orange white crap is rust and corrosion. That's what happens to your motor when you run water and no coolant, and have crappy grounds. If you sand on the block, your gonna get high and low spots, and your gasket won't seal properly. Take the head to a machine shop and have it milled. Yes, this is MANDATORY. To fix the block correctly, you need to pull it out, and take it to a machine shop as well. They can mill the deck, and clean all the crud out of the coolant passages alot easier, and faster, than you can. If you don't want to do that, you need to learn how to lap the deck. There's more info on lapping here:
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=414911
As far as cleaning out the coolant passages yourself, there is no easy way.
You know, if you don't know what you're doing, its a lot easier, and cheaper, to take your car to a good mechanic. We have the proper tools to do this kind of job correctly. Just my $.02
D
drumminforev
Guest
Hey, ok well then i will have to get the head milled, you conviced me. But the block surely isnt coming out. What recommendations can you give for cleaning the coolant passages? Do they need to be fully clean even. Because on the head it looks like the passages just lead to small holes on the side of the passage instead of just an open big hole.
I mean i guess i COULD take the block off. I wouldnt have to take the internals out would i? I wouldnt think so...But then i would need an engine lift to get it in and out of my trunk, etc. Hm
I mean i guess i COULD take the block off. I wouldnt have to take the internals out would i? I wouldnt think so...But then i would need an engine lift to get it in and out of my trunk, etc. Hm
Well, I'm glad your getting the head milled, aluminum heads warp real easy. Would hate to see you do this twice. Cooling the block is just as important as cooling the head. The more crud there is built up between the cylinder walls and the coolant flowing through the block, the less efficiently the cylinders are cooled. Thus a hotter running engine. As far as cleaning out the block, if you don't want to take it out, scrape as much of that crap outta there as you can, Then run a water hose(a pressure washer would be even better) in it full blast untill you get clean water. Your gonna have to do this multiple times in order to get all the crap outta the bottom of the block. Thing is, you need to get as much of the water back out, and blow out all the head bolt holes as well. Hope you can get your hands on an air compressor. If you leave water, oil, or any trash in the head bolt holes, the head won't torque down correctly. Water and oil won't compress under the bolts, and any gasket pieces or other debris will only compress so far. If you do decide to pull the block, let the machine shop strip and reassemble it. It would be worth the effort to go ahead and put new bearings in the bottom end anyway. Then you have a nicely freshened motor, and won't have to worry about it. Oh yeah, and on this particular job, most shops won't warranty it unless you put a new water pump, thermostat, change any old hoses(now is a good time to get the ones on the back of the head), and at least have the radiator checked, if not a new one. This is because you obviously have a problem in the coolant system, or it wouldn't have blown the head gasket. You can get a replacement radiator for less than $200 if you shop around. All new stock replacement radiators today use aluminum cores with plastic tanks. They cool quite well.
Oh, and by the way: I pulled the head off my 7m in an afternoon. I'm 5'10", 140 lbs, and didn't have to strain at all to get it off. Sometimes, its all about using the correct leverage. I got the head back from the machine shop around 11 a.m. the next day, had it back together, and drove it home that night. Guess it helps that I've been a mechanic for... 5+ years at my current shop... and this is probably the easiest motor I get to work on.
D
drumminforev
Guest
So how do i know when its neccary to lap the block.
How do i know what type of compound is neccessary...and it looks like it can only be bought online?
Last question....what can be purchased locally to make a suitable lapping block?
I read all that on SF and they all just used some random thing they found, and no particular compounds...
How do i know what type of compound is neccessary...and it looks like it can only be bought online?
Last question....what can be purchased locally to make a suitable lapping block?
I read all that on SF and they all just used some random thing they found, and no particular compounds...
cuel,
I'm in the middle of a BHG job. Heads at the shop now so I'm trying to get things squared away in the meantime. I like your suggestion about running water through the coolant ports on the block so I'm thinking that I'll crank up my power washer and do it. A question though -Will all of that water flush out of the coolant drain on the block or do I need to do something special? I think I'll follow that up by blowing compressed air into the ports as a follow up.
I'm in the middle of a BHG job. Heads at the shop now so I'm trying to get things squared away in the meantime. I like your suggestion about running water through the coolant ports on the block so I'm thinking that I'll crank up my power washer and do it. A question though -Will all of that water flush out of the coolant drain on the block or do I need to do something special? I think I'll follow that up by blowing compressed air into the ports as a follow up.
AlbanyAng said:
Just make sure you plug all of the oil passages, and flush the oil at least twice before you start the car...then once it is started, only run it for a minute, then change oil again.
If it were me, I would do three times. :biglaugh:
D