Cam selection help for destroked 7M project
- Thread starter bigaaron
- Start date
If they weren't already done I would have gone with yours. I'll make sure to ask about the straightness.
aljordan said:
Yep, I would not trust the group buy spec over his website either. To my understanding, and I could be wrong, the BC cams are a chilled cast blank core. I would not trust a 9.52mm lift cam made that way. 8.6 is fine on a chilled cast. 9.2-9.5mm I would do nothing but 4140 billet steel round stock and 10.5 to 11mm and above, I would do nothing but 5160.
Aaron - After I get a set of my 8.6/264 cams in my car I will let you know what the dyno says.
Mine are hard face welded (same stuff they build up the digging teeth on excavators) and after 25,000 KM's look perfect.
In the past I had welded cams that were just the same soft material as the parent metal and suffered many failures with everything from pitting to lobes falling off.
In the past I had welded cams that were just the same soft material as the parent metal and suffered many failures with everything from pitting to lobes falling off.
Rich: Back when I got mine done there were no billets to be had.
The company that did the work for me have been doing Cams since Noah needed more lift to get the Ark up on plane
I'm sure they moved around a LOT but they insure they're 100% straight after being stress relieved following welding turned nicely in the new head by hand when torqued down without the valvetrain.
The company that did the work for me have been doing Cams since Noah needed more lift to get the Ark up on plane
I'm sure they moved around a LOT but they insure they're 100% straight after being stress relieved following welding turned nicely in the new head by hand when torqued down without the valvetrain.
That is what scares me about some re-welds. Who did the welding, what material was used, how many kilojoules (too many and you have a weak cam from the over heat), and is it straight. This is why I like reginds, the process of grinding staightens the cam, all you need is some under bucket make up shims, heat treating after grinding and good as a new cam. We can talk about cams all day, I love this stuff and like shooting the shit with other know its! You can check your cam by placing it in a quick made jig that cradles it on the ends, turn it around with a dial indicator on a center bearing.
LOL I have a pretty well equipped machine shop here at home and had them in the Lathe between centers and indicated em both
(as i said my guys are pretty damn good at this sort of thing but I leave nothing to chance)
Speaking of which time to head out for another fun filled day at the CNC!!
(as i said my guys are pretty damn good at this sort of thing but I leave nothing to chance)
Speaking of which time to head out for another fun filled day at the CNC!!
I'm not too worried about the quality, I'll put it this way: Bisi runs cams made by the same company that made the ones for me, and Bisi drove the world's fastest All Motor SOHC Honda, Established IDRC record for E.T. and speed in All Motor, and was the first driver to break the 11- and 10-second barrier in a non-VTEC naturally aspirated Honda. Their cams are in engines making a lot more horsepower, turning a lot higher rpm, and competing at a much higher level then I ever will.