Calling all Automatic Supras!

Do you like your automatic tranny?


  • Total voters
    52

89Turbo

New Member
Oct 22, 2005
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Portland
jdub said:
Got mine at IPT in New Jersey...they're about $500:
http://www.importperformancetrans.com/

It's a 3000 rpm stall...wanted to keep a little better drivability for the street. That rpm is where the SP-61GT turbo spools...worked out great.

And dbsupra90's comment on the line pressure cable is dead on...it's adjustment makes a HUGE difference. Mine wasn't as easy though; with a modd'ed valve body, I had to make an adjustment...drive it, make an adjustment...drive it... Took a while, but finally got it right ;)

daily driver and weekend racer on a CT26(upgrading soon) what stall speed would you recommend?
 

Jspec7m88

New Member
Dec 3, 2005
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Nappy City
89Turbo said:
daily driver and weekend racer on a CT26(upgrading soon) what stall speed would you recommend?

3000 would be suitable.
*edit* -what kind of upgraded CT? the whole trick is to try to get a stall that matches up with about where the turbo will begin to spool. If you get a .57 Trim, you will be just fine with a 3000, and something like a 62-1 would probably be more suitable for a 3400.


Also, dbsupra, could you explain the the whole line adjustment thing a little more? I just recently put the cooler on my car and I haven't bothered to check anything like that.
 

89Turbo

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Oct 22, 2005
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Jspec7m88 said:
3000 would be suitable.
*edit* -what kind of upgraded CT? the whole trick is to try to get a stall that matches up with about where the turbo will begin to spool. If you get a .57 Trim, you will be just fine with a 3000, and something like a 62-1 would probably be more suitable for a 3400.


Also, dbsupra, could you explain the the whole line adjustment thing a little more? I just recently put the cooler on my car and I haven't bothered to check anything like that.

this is actually what i am going to upgrade to in the somewhat near future(year):
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Toyota/Supra_86-92/LIPP/Turbos/Turbo_Kits

Toyota Supra 86-92
Stage 5, TO4E 54 (500hp) with lines, 136480
1,500.00
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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Torque converter's stall speed changes when the torque applied to it changes. Keep that in mind.
 
Last edited:

Jspec7m88

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Dec 3, 2005
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Nick M said:
Torque converters stall speed changes with the torque applied to it changes. Keep that in mind.

Either I am very tired and cannot read or that didn't make too much sense to me. Should there be some commas, apostrophes, etc. that you should've put in somewhere because that was very unclear to me.:icon_conf
 

EvoLuTioN

no-JZ Your Mom!
Mar 10, 2006
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I love my auto tranny, and I can smoke some 5-speeds right now :) but once I get my whole car in order (to some degree) and have my car built a little, I'm going to get the tranny rebuild and stronger than ever!
 

Nick M

Black Rifles Matter
Sep 9, 2005
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Jspec7m88 said:
Either I am very tired and cannot read or that didn't make too much sense to me. Should there be some commas, apostrophes, etc. that you should've put in somewhere because that was very unclear to me.:icon_conf
I was thinking about something other than what I was writing. I edited it.
 

ValgeKotkas

Supramania Contributor
Apr 14, 2006
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Over the pond
Never driven a Supra auto, but my mom has a auto Citroen C2 with shift pads near the steering wheel, and oh, these are fun :icon_razz
 

Shytheed Dumas

For Sale
Mar 6, 2006
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dbsupra90 said:
yes the tranny cooler will help. also, be sure the line pressure cable is adjusted correctly. will make a huge difference in how the car behaves. w/ the car off move the tbody to wot. the crimp on the cable should come out just past the orange boot. if it doesnt, adjust it til it does.

I've hated my auto, but I would like to change that. I've been thinking about the Suprastick, but it sounds like I have a couple of other things to do first. With the gas to the floor I can't get past 4,500 rpm in 1st gear and high 4's in second. I never come close to redline. Even with the ECT set for performance, it's slow to downshift, even out of OD, so I usually do it with the OD button on the highway.

Any recommendations on a good, but relatively inexpensive and hopefully bolt-on cooler, anybody? How about a TSRM page reference for pressure cable adjustment? Thanks.
 
P

Pokey

Guest
Replaced my auto with a 5sp!:evil2: ubelievable power difference from the 2!:runaway:
 

Jspec7m88

New Member
Dec 3, 2005
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...Maybe a little "torquier" since you control the power of the throttle unlike an Automatic...I'll still race you.:naughty:
 

Caplax40

Grand Tourer
Feb 12, 2006
202
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Boise, ID
Got Boost? said:
How much power can the stock tranny hold before it starts to crap out?


I too would like to know this. I'm looking to reach the limits of the stock ct-26 (~350hp right) but I'm not sure if the auto tranny will hold that back.

Can anyone say for certain?
 

jdub

Official SM Expert: Motor Oil, Lubricants & Fil
SM Expert
Feb 10, 2006
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Valley of the Sun
89Turbo said:
daily driver and weekend racer on a CT26(upgrading soon) what stall speed would you recommend?

Yeah...I agree. A 3000 rpm stall would be just about right.


Caplax40 said:
I too would like to know this. I'm looking to reach the limits of the stock ct-26 (~350hp right) but I'm not sure if the auto tranny will hold that back.

Can anyone say for certain?

The ones I've seen fail were past the 350 crank HP point. Doing burnouts with it will hasten the demise ;)
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
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indiucky
the stock tranny life has a lot to do with how it is treated as well.

as far as the line pressure cable adjustment-

lpc.jpg


there is the line pressure cable bracket. on the side of the bracket that you cant see in the pic there is an orange boot on the cable where it attaches to the throttle bracket. what you do is hold the throttle body at wot. there is a crimp on the cable that should come out of that orange boot. if it does not, you need to loosen the nuts on that line pressure bracket. adjust it so the cable gets tighter. retest. keep doing so til you see the crimp come out of the boot. tighten up the nuts and you are good to go!
another useful bit of info is the mph speed of where it is supposed to up and down shift. i recommend these tests at the track ;)

AT_040.gif


hope this helps.

dave
 

Jspec7m88

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Dec 3, 2005
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Nappy City

This is WOT..I didn't/don't see anything like you were describing, so this must mean time to adjust?

*edit* NVM, so I just loosen both, tighten the line up and then tighten the nuts again, right?
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
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indiucky
yep time to adjust. slide back that orange boot and see if you can see the crimp before you get too carried away w/ adjusting it. once you do, get it so the crimp is here at wot:

wotmorangecover0inm.jpg
 

Jspec7m88

New Member
Dec 3, 2005
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Nappy City
Okay...I've been messing with it since I last posted...
At one point, I got it just perfect so that when you pushed the throttle ALL the way, you could see maybe an 1/8 of an inch of the crimp sticking out. So I said, okay, cool, I'm going to go test it out...now when I test it, exactly what am I suppose to be noticing as far as changes go? I never did go WOT while driving, but I put it about 3/4 to the floor a couple times and it actually seemed a little heavier...so I went and played with it some more...then at one point I thought I was doing it wrong so I moved the nuts the opposite way of the orange cover and noticed no difference so I just drove home and gave up for now. What do you think?
 

dbsupra90

toonar
Apr 1, 2005
2,374
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indiucky
you had it right when the crimp was sticking out of the boot.
single gear runs you may not notice a lot. what you will notice is the upshifts and downshifts. w/ perf mode on and the cable adjusted correctly, it should go all the way to redline and a much firmer shift to the next gear. when at cruise and then you hammer down, it should downshift quickly like it means it. more line pressure means less slippage.