fixitman04;1162402 said:
i have the factory dash bar i just removed it cuz the car is on the rotissrey. But with the dactory dash bar you dont need one welded to the cage. States the nhra.
Cage is finshed and the chassis work is almost done.
- Thread starter wesbeech
- Start date
i have the factory dash bar i just removed it cuz the car is on the rotissrey. But with the dactory dash bar you dont need one welded to the cage. States the nhra.
id still do it, it is way safer to tie it all together. you will see less flex that way as well
afterall it is only time and welder wire at this point
afterall it is only time and welder wire at this point
88-7MGTE;1162690 said:what would be the other good tube to use on a cage, my budget is not ment for DOM14.35 a foot
Haha i payed 3.25 a foot for 1.75 dom tube for my cage. The the dash bar there is no way to put one behind the dash without removing the factory bar then you lost your steering column mount so.
Where the hell did you find tubing so cheap??? I've seen $5 something/foot at the cheapest. I'll take some!
If you guys are seriously intrested in dom tubing pm me. I can get it for 3.23 or 4.25 i cant rember which it was but i can get dom cheeper then erw which is not as strong as dom.
erw has a seam in the middle of the pipe, am i right ??? so it means it's not a material for the cage, it will always break in the seam.
88-7MGTE;1163171 said:
ERW is electric resistanc welded which dose have the seam down the middle which is not as strong but is nhra legal
skipbarber;1163031 said:
Where are you guys ordering steel if you're paying that much? I mean steel pricing did jump recently and might have reached $5/foot, but whoever said $14+/foot that's just not right. That's like Mcmaster pricing. And no one orders that kind of amount of metal from Mcmaster, it's just dumb to.
But I think steel prices have calmed down a little, just call around to different places and see what pricing you can get. And make sure to get mild steel DOM tubing for the car, I would definitely not use ERW even though the NHRA still thinks it is alright.
So now a couple comments on the cage, do what skipbarber said in an earlier post and cut out that roof bar and move it forward. You are going to be hitting your head on that all the time and if you street drive and don't wear a helmet, a little fender bender or even panic braking might result in at least a bunch of stitches.
And did you really bent the a-pillar bar around gauges? I'm sorry, but that's one of the dumbest things I've seen in a while. It might have to do with my absolute hate of a-pillar gauges or the fact that you sacrificed a ton of visibility for gauges. I mean if you had mounted the gauges on the cage, that would've been fine, I still hate them in that spot, but at least it wouldn't have been as bad as the way it is.
Why not tie the rear bars into the shock towers? Or what not keep them straight? Are they allowed to have a bend, I know all the road racing sanctioning body rules will not allow any bend in those rear down bars, but who knows what the NHRA thinks is safe.
Wiisass;1163412 said:
According to the nhra this cage is fully legial and the reason i bent the rear dwon bars is im keeping my rear seat. So they now clear the seat.
eraezer;1234681 said:
My rear seat weighs maybe 20 or 30 pounds cuz its gutted but i have the look of no seat i rater have the weight.
midwestwerks2jz;1235185 said:
Its a miller mig welder i cant rember which one its the biggest 110 i could get at the time.
Miller probably build a stout little 110. Iv never been impressed with any of the 110s I used but then again they were all pretty low end.
miller ftmfw. (just cus their made form the good ole hometown up here) lol. just liek miller beer lol. but ya im in the market for a enw welder since my gaarage got borken into at my old place.