BVSV Thread

[Fubar231]

First thing im going to say, sorry if im making a lot of posts for everyone, but i just want to make sure i have everything right before i place my order.

Does anyone know what the thread is for the BVSV? Since i took out the charcoal can and plugged off the vac lines that lead to it etc, im going to get an adapter and put my water temp gauge probe where the BVSV goes. I just need to know what thread type it is to get the adapter for it.

 

[jetjock]

In case you haven't noticed the stock gage sender as well as the EFI sender are on the engine side of the thermostat. There are reasons for that...

 

[supra90turbo]

ohh... Fubar is right.

I would lean towards doing it the right way, but that's just me.

I'd also focus heavily on what JJ said.

 

[Fubar231]

In case you haven't noticed the stock gage sender as well as the EFI sender are on the engine side of the thermostat. There are reasons for that...

Sorry man, this is my first car, and im still new to stuff. Just want to do everything right the first time ya know.

ohh... Fubar is right.

I would lean towards doing it the right way, but that's just me.

I'd also focus heavily on what JJ said.

Only reason i asked if i could put it in the BVSV is because for 1 i dont use it, and two i was going to use this to install the water temp probe, but i figured why not get an adapter and not cut up my upper rad hose. Any input on this would be great, because like i said before, i just want to do it right the first time, and this is my first car... Iuno.

This is what i was going to use.
http://prosportgauges.com/water-temp-sender-radiator-hose-adaptor.aspx

 

[jetjock]

Defeating the evap system is doing things right? I hope you at least vented the tank another way. What you propose for the temp sender will work but it's not optimum and could fail you when needed most. Maybe it's the pilot in me talking but instrumentation should be done right, otherwise there's not much point in having it.

 

[Fubar231]

Defeating the evap system is doing things right? I hope you at least vented the tank another way. What you propose for the temp sender will work but it's not optimum and could fail you when needed most. Maybe it's the pilot in me talking but instrumentation should be done right, otherwise there's not much point in having it.

Removing the evap system may not be right, but its better than having open vac lines like the previous owner had it. My car never had a charcoal can. I plugged off the vac lines and got a vented gas cap to "Fix" the problem.

As for the water temp gauge, where would you suggest that i probe it in?

Also i agree with you on wanting to do things right the first time, especially so they don't fail.

 

[supra90turbo]

OK fine, I'll bite. You will not get an accurate water temp reading on that side of the thermostat as that is not true engine coolant temperature. Same thing with the radiator hose adapter pieces.

As for your charcoal canister.... Buy a 1JZ charcoal canister and tuck it in the fender. Problem solved.

This should help your cause:

That will highlight all of the sensors in that housing, notice the ECU needs a coolant temp sensor. If you want to remove one, make sure you remove the one for the gauge, which is the smaller one..


::edit:: JJ, I agree with you and I'm NOT a pilot

 

[Fubar231]

So get an adapter that will go into the Instrument Cluster coolant gauge sensor (Whatever thread that is to 1/8 NPT) and ill be good?

Thanks for the help guys.

Do any of you know what the thread style is for that?

EDIT: As for the charcoal can, and having it set up how i do. Is the only problem with running it plugged off etc with a vented gas cap and such, about how fast the fuel evaporates? Because if thats it, im not entriely too worried. A tank of gas doesnt stay in my car more than 3-4 days tops.

 

[CyFi6]

I am running my water temp gauge on the houisng just after the thermostat and it shows the same readings i got before when i ran it before the thermostat, i dont see why it should make any different, a thermostat transfers heat through it even if there is little to no flow. And yes, before you ask, I am running all stock components including a Toyota thermostat.

 

[3p141592654]

Imagine the thermostat failed closed for some reason. Tell me what your gauge would read versus the temp of the coolant circulating in the engine.

 

[jetjock]

Exactly. Most thermostats are not failsafe. They're spring loaded closed. And what happens if it fails to open after a cold start (the most common failure) and say, you just jumped on the freeway? I'd have thought all this would've been obvious but I guess not.

Truth is I chuckle at the aftermarket gage thing. I drove my car 22 years with the stock gages. Never had a problem and if I unknowingly did it never hurt the engine. I'm well aware of their quirks (which I feel are overblown) but for a daily driver with proper maintenance they're plenty good enough.

Not to mention even the best gages are useless unless you're scanning them, something few people do. Better to install audible alarms, gages with alarm setpoints, or even voice. These days voice is easy.