Built engine installed but not running right. Need guru's help! *HD Video*

[MarkIII4Me]

Only drove the car for a few minutes, then had it towed back home. All sorts of little issues that I need to iron out. The most important being a smoking turbo. When I went to pick up the car, I noticed the intake pipe was off and there was oil mist all over the inducer. ISP said the turbo started smoking right away, but then stopped so they dyno tuned it, and now it leaks oil through both the front and rear intermittently. I'm hoping it's just the feed line being too large. Hey Grim, what feed line you running on your HiFi? I'm using a premade line that I got from SupraSport. -4AN on each end, but the line itself is huge, line -6AN or -8AN, so not sure if that effects anything or not since it's bottlenecked at both ends. Turbonetics said it should be fine, but I'm hoping with our high volume oil system it's creating too much pressue to the turbo at 45psi and if I replace the line with a -3AN with -4AN ends it will fix the oil leaking past the front and rear seals.

The idle is kinda all over the place. At first it was idling at 900rpm and was steady. The next time I fired her up, the idle jumped to 2700rpm and just stayed there until the engine warmed up. When the 4" intake pipe was put on, the idle now jumps from 900-1200rpm up and down up and down. Pretty annoying. Also, I still have an issue with my interior lights and turn signals not working. This has happened beforeoff and on. I drove the car for a few minutes and surprisingly it drove really nice. Lotta torque. In fact, I had difficulty keeping it on road once I got to around 4000rpm. He back just flys out abruptly. Pretty scary stuff. I couldn't bring my eyes off of the road to look at my guages. Not sure how much boost I was making. My AF's seem to stay right at 12.5 tho.

AS for my 1J FFIM conversion. Not pnp at all. The fabricator actually retained all of the 7M's manifold and just swapped the 1J plenum over. So fitment is perfect. Never seen it done this way before. The runners are really long and it helps add to the volume of such a small manifold. You can see just how far out and high it sits (see avatar). Maybe that's why I can't keep her on the road. lol

peste, what "harness" are you refering to?

 

[Turbo Habanero]

I couldn't bring my eyes off of the road to look at my guages. Not sure how much boost I was making. My AF's seem to stay right at 12.5 tho.

This is scary IMO.

I'd never tune that lean...

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Really? Maybe it was 10.5 AF then. Whatever it was, it idled at the same AF as under boost. I need to get the time to troubleshoot the thing. I highly doubt I'm running lean.

What should the target afr be?

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Ok. Four things.

1) AFR is way to lean if its 12.5 under boost. 11'a are good, maybe 11.5 if you have a good tuner but 12.5 is ridiculous. Are you feeding a signal from the wideband to the AEM, you could log a pull and see what it's doing. Post a fuel and timing map and other will help. I am not expert on the MAP side of things but I am sure IJ. can help along with other members.

2) In the AEM, are all your sensors reading correctly? If you could post the voltages when the key is "on," engine off, that would help us. Example, TPS reads at 99% or 4.95 volts at idle which is wrong.

3) Change the turbo line and make sure the drain is straight. If they say it should be a -3 feed at the turbo, make a -3 line, if a -4, use a -4 line. No need to run a -6 or -8.

4) Your high idle could be from the ISCV not functioning properly. You can unplug it. There is a screw setup on the 1JZ throttle body that will allow you to set the idle by opening the throttle plate. Then you can tune the cold start to get it to start without any problems, it will take some time but any GOOD tuner will be able to do it.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

Shouldn't idle at the same boost AFR, that would be to rich.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Like I said earlier, I only drove the car for a few minutes. With all the little issues I don't even feel like drivng it until they're fixed. Especially my turbo and radiator fans (controller fried so I'm going to wire them into the EMS). And I'm so busy at work and opening a new store tomorrow, so who knows when I'll be able to get the datalogging done. I really need to do it. This I understand.

I'm running a zeitronics wb but the guage is mounted where the cig lighter was. So it was just too dangerous to look down at it under boost. Datalogging really needs to be done.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Ok, so I finally got time to drive the car again. Battery was dead so had to charge it up. Fired up the engine and it idled perfectly at 1700rpm and dropped to 900rpm when warm. Looked at my A/F meter and it was steady at 14.7 afr. Started driving her around and noticed that the afr wasn't changing. It was still stuck at 14.7 afr. So now I gotta figure out what the hell happened to my wideband. It's not doing anything now, it just read 14.7 no matter what the engines doing. A wire must have came loose or the sensor fried.

Anyways, I did a couple of nice pulls. Boost is coming on kinda late, like after 4000rpm. And once I hit around 4700rpm the boost jumps almost instantly to 17psi and the rpm jumps to 5500 and I have to let off. It's very strange. I'm beginning to think the my ICV is sticking open. I have a metal filter on the end of it and hear it hissing while I'm cruising, and it should be shut when the throttle's cracked. I'll have to see what's going on with it. I did notice that once the engine is warm and has been boosted several times, the idle starts to jump from 900rpm to 1100rpm over and over. Gotta be that stupid ICV. Even after shutting the car down for 30 minutes, it still idled like that. At least it didn't idle at 2700rpm when cold like it was doing a few weeks ago. The EGT's never went over 1250deg, so I guess I didn't take her into the danger zone during my cruise. Overall pretty happy driving it. Sounds mean as all hell. I real low growl while cruising and sounds like an f-ing monster truck at WOT.



Here's a vid I took today while it was warming-up at 1700rpm. No banging or pinging. Sounds smooth. Big difference from the first vid posted running on JDM ECU and piggybacks.

 

[IBoughtASupra]

You probably need a new wideband sensor. Maybe the old one is fouled up.

The ISCV tends to bad and stick open under boost, you can remove it, set the idle with the throttle body stop screw and then have the cold map tuned, which you can do yourself, so it starts everytime when cold. You may or may not have to add some fuel at the colder temperatures.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Finally got my car into the garage. Got the wideband working again (loose connection) and it was all over the place. Smoked the intake manifold through the brake booster nipple and smoke started pouring out from the back of the manifold towards the bottom. Not sure yet if it's from a bad weld or what. Also, smoke started to leak out of the Aeromotive AFPR from the upper nut used to set pressure. ISP tol;d me that the car put down 415bhp at 21psi but boost was unstable after that, and I ran out of fuel at 5200rpm. I have no idea how ISP was ever able to dyno tune my vehicle with these massive leaks. Which leads me to believe that they just fucked with it for a few hours and said "screw it". Still charged me $1500 labor for their time. I traced down the leaks in about 10 minutes. Also explains why they conveniently "lost" my dyno chart. Guess I need to get it dyno-tuned elsewhere when this is all taken care of. I'll keep everyone posted when it's all fixed up.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Ok, so I've taken care of numerous boost leaks. Installed an in-line check valve between the ISCV and filter as well as from the intake manifold to catch can (crappy Purolator pcv valve was not holding well). Also fixed some wiring to the EMS, wired electric fans and set them to come on at 190deg. Ran a 10ga wire to the hatch and performed the 12v relay mod. Engine is running strong at idle, but goes lean pretty much as soon I touch the gas. Taking it to Freed Engineering on Tuesday for a new tune with the Greddy 720cc injectors. Let's see if I can pull off 500whp with a bolt-on turbo.

Here's a vid a snapped yesterday of her idling.

 

[MarkIII4Me]

467whp @ 18psi. I'm happy with that. They were going to go for 22psi but electric boost controller started wigging-out and jumping boost all over the place. They powered it off and set the wastegate spring at 18psi and it held steady. Shame because I bet it would have cracked 500whp otherwise.

Powercurve looks really streetable so I'm happy. I'm going to pick her up tomorrow!

Few questions:

What's with the low torque numbers? Is it the head port job? Raised cams? 2mm stopper hg? I know this engine was originally built for a much larger turbo, and not a bolt-on for that matter, but still. Maybe it's a good thing since my spec stage 3 clutch is only rated at 450/ft lbs or torque anyways.

 

[Villy253]

That TRD cover you have is cool, where did you get it?

 

[MarkIII4Me]

Fabricated it from the original coil pack cover.

 

[Villy253]

that is really sexy.

 

[7M4EVR]

Congrats on being patient and sticking it out to get ur ride on the right track man. Keep on keeping on. That things going to make 500 ponies in its sleep.