Building a Aem Harness any help appreciated

[dslocal]

Hey bassically I'm tired of dealing with my original torn up harness so I'm going to start over and build a new one.
Mostly I need help with the injector wiring, I'm using These injectors:

Injector Advertised Flow Rate (lbs/hr) 72 lbs./hr.
Injector Impedance 2.2 ohms
Driver Type 4\1A peak and hold
Overall Height (in) 2.830 in.
Seat to Seat Height (in) 2.153 in.
Manifold O-Ring Outside Diameter (in) 0.590 in.
Fuel Rail O-Ring Outside Diameter (in) 0.590 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 0.971 in.
Injector Plug Style Bosch/Amp-style

I am wondering if I still need the resistor pack and also if anyone has any diagrams of how to wire it in.

Also wondering about switching out the stock multiplex ignitor for a VVTI 2jz one? I've heard of using the mitsubishi three channel ones too. Opinions on both? Diagrams or any wiring advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks.
-Doug

 

[Halsupramk3]

you must use a stock injector resistor. this will make the voltage and ohms correct. You need a wiring book or TRSM for your year car to do all that. you can wire in sequential injection on inj 1,2,3 in aem for cyl 1,2,3 and inj 7,8,9 to cyl 4,5,6. and also turn on inj 10 in aem. then input the phasing numbers for inj 1,2,3 and 7,8,9. you can also wire in a 3 chanel ignitor and get rid of multiplex crap.

here is some of the post on sequential injection be sure to check what wire colors on your year harness are the ground wire to the ecu. that is the one to cut and rewire to the aem inj pin

Originally Posted by X-man
On the sequential injection hook up you are looking for plug C (the only 12 pin plug on the AEM). The numbers you want are on the bottom row on the left side of the connector.

10C is injector #7(which will go to injector #4 on the engine)
11C is injector #8(which will go to injector #5 on the engine)
12C is injector #9(which will go to injector #6 on the engine)

All the fuel injectors share a 12 volt supply wire from the injector resistor. The power wires will be colored:

Yellow for inj #1 and #4
Black for inj #2 and #6
Red for inj #3 and #5

The trigger wires for the ecu that you need to be concerned with are the:

White with a blue stripe for injector#4
White is for injector #5
White with a red stripe for injector #6

You cut these wires out at the injector leaving about 3 to 4 inches off the injector plug to work with and attach the 3 to 4 inch pieces off the injector plugs to:

White/blue(inj #4) to pin 10C(inj #7)
White (inj #5) to pin 11C(inj #8)
White/red(inj #6) to pin 12C(inj #9)

On the pieces left sticking out of the original wiring harness I installed a red 18-22 ga butt connectors over the exposed ends to protect them.




You then have to turn off injectors number 4,5, and 6 and turn on/active injectors 7,8,9, and 10 and set them for primary under OPTIONS on the drop list. Then you go to FUEL, then ADVANCED FUEL, then INJ PHASING and set inject tooth #1 to 19.00, inject tooth #2 to 11.00, inject tooth #3 to 3.00, inject tooth #7 to 15.00, inject tooth #8 to 23.00, and inject tooth #9 to 7.00. Numbers 4,5,6, and 10 will have the number 0.00 in each of them.

Sean

HM says
change fuel teeth to 24 for seq inj in cam crank options. then copy fuel map in raw?(i think) then double microbitsec and paste fuel map back on and now have enough fuel. also think need to uncheck eng cycle = 1 rev.


What is everyone using for dwell settings for this? Going stinger, this should be fine with stinger right?

20.00 teeth max (this maybe with the 3000GT ignitor and not ds62, dont know, HM)
.30 teeth min
Last edited by X-man; July 20th, 2009 at 10:33 PM.

hal

 

[dslocal]

Thanks for the help!
I remember going over that write up before and couldn't find it anywhere.
Just making sure but this will work for a 1j?(2jz aem)

And one other question too, If I use these injectors when I go into the injector wizard on the AEM it has a 72lb 2ohm inj. I can select, I'm just wondering if the resistor will throw anything off because it will change the signal??? sorry kinda new at this.
Thanks again

 

[jfbimkiii]

I'm geetin this thread back to life cause i have issue running seq on my 30-1110 box. I rewired my injector to 7,8,9 but the inj 9 output
doesn't work at all. i've also tried turning #10 on(BTW were is that output on 1110 box?) i would like to use it since #9 is not working.
i'm disapointed cause i found out the car idle very fine on seq even with one injector not firing, it even run smoother on 5 inj seq than
6 inj in batch fire. I would like to use output #10 but i can't find how? i have tried switching between 7 and 9 to make sure it was output
of the aem that doesn't and it's really only this output. i'have redone crimping two time this pin on the aem extra connector to be sure i had a good contact since this connector is so little and crapy IMO. Thanks

JF

 

[adampecush]

I had the exact same problem. 9/10 worked intermittently at first, and then not at all. I simply went back to semi-sequential as I just wanted the car to run.

Maybe contact AEM about this. I'd like to know what is up as well.

 

[Halsupramk3]

post number 2 explains it.
be sure that inj 10 is checked on along with inj 9 as 10 needs to be to make 9 work. inj 4,5,6 are hard wired to 1,2,3 on the daughter board in the box so we cant use them without cutting the circuit board or soldering a wire directly to the mother board and cutting the output pin to 4,5,6 respectively.

so wire in inj 9 pin for cylinder 6. input the phasing number in inj 9 and make sure the primary button etc is on for inj 9 and inj 10 but phasing number of 0 for inj 10 as is also 4,5,6. so all inj are checked on except 4,5,6 in the Injector Options panel. be sure you wired in the Ground wire to inj 9 and all injectors and you did not cut the +12 volt wire as i did and found out inj 6 was dead. (i accidently cut the ground wire to inj 9 and wired in the power wire to inj 9 pin on aem so no power to cylinder 6 injector.) if you dont change fuel teeth from 12 to 24 you are still on batch fire but just individually wired in all 6 injectors.
hope that helps

 

[hvyman]

Thought you could run either high or low imp injectors with the aem?

Also id run teh 1zz coils or something similar. There smart coils with built in igniters. Then thats one less thing to worry about.

 

[jfbimkiii]

Thank Hal, i will probably give it another try since i put it back to batch...
althought i was aware of the #10 need to be turned on...
i also have seen different inj tooth seeting somewhere else..?

 

[adampecush]

post number 2 explains it.
be sure that inj 10 is checked on along with inj 9 as 10 needs to be to make 9 work. inj 4,5,6 are hard wired to 1,2,3 on the daughter board in the box so we cant use them without cutting the circuit board or soldering a wire directly to the mother board and cutting the output pin to 4,5,6 respectively.

so wire in inj 9 pin for cylinder 6. input the phasing number in inj 9 and make sure the primary button etc is on for inj 9 and inj 10 but phasing number of 0 for inj 10 as is also 4,5,6. so all inj are checked on except 4,5,6 in the Injector Options panel. be sure you wired in the Ground wire to inj 9 and all injectors and you did not cut the +12 volt wire as i did and found out inj 6 was dead. (i accidently cut the ground wire to inj 9 and wired in the power wire to inj 9 pin on aem so no power to cylinder 6 injector.) if you dont change fuel teeth from 12 to 24 you are still on batch fire but just individually wired in all 6 injectors.
hope that helps

I tried absolutely every possible combination of inputs checked on and off, and my injector was absolutely wired correctly. Injector 6 refused to fire consistently. I could see if it was completely dead, but it was intermittently firing initially, and then not at all. I might give it another go this weekend just to make sure though. My car idles in a less than desirable fashion, even after a very good tune.

 

[Halsupramk3]

Thought you could run either high or low imp injectors with the aem?


Also id run teh 1zz coils or something similar. There smart coils with built in igniters. Then thats one less thing to worry about.

your aem box is set up for low impedence injectors. high impedence will burn out the injector drivers in the box as i understand what i have been told by aem gurus.


you would need to see how the coils are triggered. i think our aem boxes use a 5 volt trigger on the coils. not sure on that. again you can burn out compenents if incorrect.

hal

 

[Halsupramk3]

On that inj 6. Put one of those inj light tester things on the plug to see if it is pulsin properly. If you have another low ohm inj you could put it on the plug to test. Or switch another injector from ur rail and see if the inj is bad.

 

[adampecush]

I swapped the plugs on 5 and 6, and swapped the phasing accordingly...6 fired, 5 did not.

How difficult would it be to modify the boards inside the ECU to gain access to 4, 5, and 6?

Personally, I think it was stupid of AEM to pair up the injector channels...there was really no reason for this.

 

[dslocal]

Hey guys I saw this thread was brought back up already, I am going to make some more changes to my car such as ls3 coils and also getting rid of the stepper motor idle air control for a ford style solenoid Idle air valve. I am still using the v1 AEM and was wondering if I could get some insight into wiring the coils/changing the settings in the program to fire these correctly.
Same deal with the idle air solenoid. I tried to hook up the solenoid to a switched output already on the AEM but couldn't figure out how to designate it to the idle air circuit in the AEM software...

 

[adampecush]

FYI, I've had zero issues with idle using a 2jz-gte idle control valve. No re-configuration necessary in the AEM software either.

 

[dslocal]

My idle air valve was bad when I got the car and new ones are rather expensive. (~$300) I got the ford style one for cheap and wanted to see if I could use it...