u dident spray any silicone sealer on that wrap? as soon as that gets wet its not gonna be so cool anymore...
Budget NA build
- Thread starter Typhoon
- Start date
Anyone who says extractors and exhaust don't make much of a difference to an NA Supra either did it wrong, or is full of shit!:laugh:
This thing has a heap more available power, it hasn't stopped raining so I can't tell how much more, but it is severely traction limited in the rain.
Bear in mind it's an auto, getting it off the line gently and avoiding wheelspin is no problem, but go anywhere past 3/4 throttle in first when moving and it just lets go. Same story in second and third. It'll also spin on a 3-2 kickdown under 2/3 throttle or more, so there's some decent power increases there, considering it'd do none of that previously. Yes, it's an LSD as well.
I knew these engines had much more power available NA, just had to find it. Toyotas always have very restrictive exhausts from the factory and this has been proven again.
The O2 sensor is working nicely, goes into closed loop when cruising, no codes have set. Fuel economy seems improved, whether that's extractors or the new O2 sensor (most likely) I don't know. But I think 500-550km to a tank around town is now possible.
This thing has a heap more available power, it hasn't stopped raining so I can't tell how much more, but it is severely traction limited in the rain.
Bear in mind it's an auto, getting it off the line gently and avoiding wheelspin is no problem, but go anywhere past 3/4 throttle in first when moving and it just lets go. Same story in second and third. It'll also spin on a 3-2 kickdown under 2/3 throttle or more, so there's some decent power increases there, considering it'd do none of that previously. Yes, it's an LSD as well.
I knew these engines had much more power available NA, just had to find it. Toyotas always have very restrictive exhausts from the factory and this has been proven again.
The O2 sensor is working nicely, goes into closed loop when cruising, no codes have set. Fuel economy seems improved, whether that's extractors or the new O2 sensor (most likely) I don't know. But I think 500-550km to a tank around town is now possible.
90% of any gain is going to be the exhaust, the Toyota Iron Header isn't a bad piece.
My car back when it was NA picked up a goodly chunk of power and midrange torque when I put the bigger exhaust on it with the stock header, just couldn't put up with the bark from the exhaust.
My car back when it was NA picked up a goodly chunk of power and midrange torque when I put the bigger exhaust on it with the stock header, just couldn't put up with the bark from the exhaust.
IJ.;1811043 said:
The exhaust noise is quite difficult to sort out on these cars, far harder than anything else I've owned. They definitely make a nasty drone at 2k rpm, but I think I have that sorted out. I wonder if it's a long stroke engine thing?
Bear in mind I did drive the car with most of the exhaust done and the stock manifold and engine pipes, so I'd say at least 50% of the gain is extractors. The stock manifold isn't bad, as far as cast manifolds go, but it still directs the outer cylinders into a collision with each other at the collector.
I went straight from 100% stock to big exhaust, never did the extractor thing as I was going GT30r shortly afterwards.
Yep the drone is what I was talking about in my car it was right @ highway cruise so drove me bugshit, little slower was fine ditto on faster (guess which I adopted as my default)
Yep the drone is what I was talking about in my car it was right @ highway cruise so drove me bugshit, little slower was fine ditto on faster (guess which I adopted as my default)
Thanks for the title change. I've killed 80% or so of the drone with an additional resonator just behind the cat, working on various tailpipe mods now to keep flow and reduce resonance. I have a dual outlet rear muffler which really isn't helping me, every dual outlet muffler I've had on a car has droned, I think it's a resonant frequency thing, with two identical pipes side by side. So in theory, all I need to do is change the length or diameter of one of the pipes.
Sorted out the exhaust, bought a $10 motorcycle exhaust baffle and welded it inside one of the tailpipes.
Wasn't happy with the accumulator shimming, very harsh. I didn't want to spend time removing and refitting the valvebody to play with shim lengths, so I bought a shift kit. Easy to install (if you can get the valve body off by yourself, it will seem easy). Cost $80 odd dollars. Improved shift speeds without too much firmness, much faster kickdown and more positive overdrive engagement. Well worth it. The kit does all variants of the A340 as well, so no need to stress about whether it's the right kit or not.
Wasn't happy with the accumulator shimming, very harsh. I didn't want to spend time removing and refitting the valvebody to play with shim lengths, so I bought a shift kit. Easy to install (if you can get the valve body off by yourself, it will seem easy). Cost $80 odd dollars. Improved shift speeds without too much firmness, much faster kickdown and more positive overdrive engagement. Well worth it. The kit does all variants of the A340 as well, so no need to stress about whether it's the right kit or not.
The A340 in my car died a couple of weeks ago, it started slipping under normal road load and had a noisy pump for several weeks beforehand. Faced with quotes for a rebuild that clearly indicated to me that all the local transmission rebuilders were engaged in price fixing ($2500 to rebuild an auto??), I decided to DIY.
The mechanicals in the box are all in excellent condition, there was a fair bit of friction material in the oil, as you'd expect from a slipping trans, but the front pump looks great. I suspect a valvebody malfunction relating to either pump suction circuit or line pressure valve.
I lashed out and bought a trans adaptor for the floor jack:
Did rear main seal whilst I was at it:
I've also just replaced the plastic shifter bushes in the auto shifter. The old ones were non existant, they must've disintegrated and fallen out years ago. All that was left was a blue pasty residue!
Handy hint: cross reference the shifter bush part number. I found "Supra" ones were $22 a pair, but "Camry" Ones were $7 delivered lol.
The mechanicals in the box are all in excellent condition, there was a fair bit of friction material in the oil, as you'd expect from a slipping trans, but the front pump looks great. I suspect a valvebody malfunction relating to either pump suction circuit or line pressure valve.
I lashed out and bought a trans adaptor for the floor jack:
Did rear main seal whilst I was at it:
I've also just replaced the plastic shifter bushes in the auto shifter. The old ones were non existant, they must've disintegrated and fallen out years ago. All that was left was a blue pasty residue!
Handy hint: cross reference the shifter bush part number. I found "Supra" ones were $22 a pair, but "Camry" Ones were $7 delivered lol.
supraguy@aol;1881592 said:
No need for a full kit, all the metal parts are perfect, just needs seals, frictions and a good clean.
I'd recommend anyone doing a reco to pull the trans down first, could save some money buying a more basic kit rather than all the bells & whistles,
