broken piston, do I need a new engine?

H

Hexar

New Member
Nov 22, 2011
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Hi Guys,
I have a 2001 IS300 automatic with a 2JZGE, and I have been trying to find out the knocking sound it has. I found out earlier that #5 cylinder has no compression, and today I finally took the head off today, and the valves are good, but the piston head are cracked.

Here are the pictures of the piston and cylinder wall.

http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/HexarAndHexanon/IS300/?action=view&current=P1120862.jpg
http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/HexarAndHexanon/IS300/?action=view&current=P1120864.jpg

[video=youtube;wU07TBLSPI0]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wU07TBLSPI0[/video]

There are some bad vertical scratch marks on the cylinder wall, :( so I am not sure if I need a new block?

I guess, I need to take the engine block out.

Can I leave the tranny in there? We have a recent thread talking about taking engine with tranny, but mine has no head now. Do I need to put the head back on before I can the engine (and possibly tranny) out?



Thanks!
 
Supracentral

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
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What you've posted definitely falls under the category of severe engine damage.

The motor needs to come out, you can pull it with or without the transmission, that's a matter of preference. You don't need to put the head on, just use head bolts to hoist it. The motor is trash.

You'll probably be better served buying a running used motor rather than trying to rebuild that one. I can't tell how severe the cylinder scoring is via the photos, but from the looks of the piston and the severe damage to the head, it's unlikely you'd be able to bore it enough to get past it.

That motor (and head) are scrap metal IMO.
 
Nihiliz

Nihiliz

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Jul 23, 2007
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Supracentral;1783876 said:
What you've posted definitely falls under the category of severe engine damage.

The motor needs to come out, you can pull it with or without the transmission, that's a matter of preference. You don't need to put the head on, just use head bolts to hoist it. The motor is trash.

You'll probably be better served buying a running used motor rather than trying to rebuild that one. I can't tell how severe the cylinder scoring is via the photos, but from the looks of the piston and the severe damage to the head, it's unlikely you'd be able to bore it enough to get past it.

That motor (and head) are scrap metal IMO.
Click to expand...

Could not of said it any better,. sorry for your loss OP,. i know what its like bro :(
 
Nghty89

Nghty89

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Mar 26, 2008
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Hexar;1783880 said:
Thanks Supracentral,

That bad huh?!

Will any 2JZGE from any toyota work in my car? I mean do they all have the same sensors, mount positions and etc.?
Click to expand...

Your best bet is to use a 2jzge from the same year IS300, but any MKiv Supra or Lexus with the 300 in its designation will work as the sensors and mounts are all almost identical and can be swapped from your old engine to the new without issues. The only difference is between the 2jz with and without VVTi. Question: does your 2jz have VVTi?

If it isn't VVTi, I have a bare 2jzge non-VVTi head with springs and valves, but you'd have to swap all your valve shims and cams over. It'll be cheap since I just need it to go bye bye. Lol let me know via pm.

Sent from my engine bay.
 
H

Hexar

New Member
Nov 22, 2011
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Nghty89;1783889 said:
Your best bet is to use a 2jzge from the same year IS300, but any MKiv Supra or Lexus with the 300 in its designation will work as the sensors and mounts are all almost identical and can be swapped from your old engine to the new without issues. The only difference is between the 2jz with and without VVTi. Question: does your 2jz have VVTi?

If it isn't VVTi, I have a bare 2jzge non-VVTi head with springs and valves, but you'd have to swap all your valve shims and cams over. It'll be cheap since I just need it to go bye bye. Lol let me know via pm.

Sent from my engine bay.
Click to expand...

Thanks Nghty89, mine has VVT-i. I will start shopping for a short block 2jz-ge with vvti I guess.

Is it a good time to think of swapping? :)
 
Kai

Kai

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May 18, 2006
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You could take this as an opportunity to swap in a 2JZ-GTE, it's not as though it's not been done, and you're going to have to spend out the money on a new engine anyway.

However, a VVTi 2JZ-GE, that i can find, in canada, comes to around $1200 CAD, whereas a bone stock 2JZ-GTE is at least double that. Might be worth looking to the US for sources of engines - or try and hit up Flateric on here, he's from the same area as you, and has a few 2JZ parts hanging around :)

Also - your head, as Supracentral pointed out already, is, in its current form about as much use as a doorstop, but, i know you can have heads welded up and machined back - it may be worth also looking into that, if the cost of doing it is feasible, vs just getting a better head. However, you'd be better off asking some of the people that know more about machining than i, there may be ramifications to welded heads i'm unaware of.
 
H

Hexar

New Member
Nov 22, 2011
9
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Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Kai;1783901 said:
You could take this as an opportunity to swap in a 2JZ-GTE, it's not as though it's not been done, and you're going to have to spend out the money on a new engine anyway.

However, a VVTi 2JZ-GE, that i can find, in canada, comes to around $1200 CAD, whereas a bone stock 2JZ-GTE is at least double that. Might be worth looking to the US for sources of engines - or try and hit up Flateric on here, he's from the same area as you, and has a few 2JZ parts hanging around :)

Also - your head, as Supracentral pointed out already, is, in its current form about as much use as a doorstop, but, i know you can have heads welded up and machined back - it may be worth also looking into that, if the cost of doing it is feasible, vs just getting a better head. However, you'd be better off asking some of the people that know more about machining than i, there may be ramifications to welded heads i'm unaware of.
Click to expand...

Thanks Kai,
the head looks bad, but there are no cracks that I can see. Will a simple grinding using dremel solve it? All the valve lashes are all within the specs. And the rest of the head looks great, just #5 cylinder.
 
H

Hexar

New Member
Nov 22, 2011
9
0
1
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Kai;1783905 said:
I wouldn't suggest doing something like that at home - you'd need it professionally welded, most likely a TIG setup, and grinding it back...again - you'd be better off leaving it to the professionals in the same machine shop.

This might give you an idea of what that work may entail:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-aluminum-cylinder-heads.html
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Kai That is a great video, thanks for sharing.

My head is really not THAT bad, it is definitely not melted as that in the video.

http://s1113.photobucket.com/albums/k516/HexarAndHexanon/IS300/?action=view&current=P1120875.jpg
 
Flateric

Flateric

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Mar 26, 2008
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Kai;1783905 said:
I wouldn't suggest doing something like that at home - you'd need it professionally welded, most likely a TIG setup, and grinding it back...again - you'd be better off leaving it to the professionals in the same machine shop.

This might give you an idea of what that work may entail:

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/welding-aluminum-cylinder-heads.html
Click to expand...

Wow amazing video, I seriously would have thought this impossible or at the very least such a very bad bad idea.
 
Supracentral

Supracentral

Active Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Flateric;1783962 said:
Wow amazing video, I seriously would have thought this impossible or at the very least such a very bad bad idea.
Click to expand...

With the right tools, materials, equipment, and experience, it's possible, but it's certainly not a task for the backyard welder.

I've had repairs like that done on my old 572cu in Keith Black blower motor. You'd be amazed the amount of damage you can wind up with after you hang an intake valve open at 9K rpm, put a compression stroke into the blower and wind up grenading the blower off the top of the damned thing... Tore the whole inner surface on the intake side of one of the heads clean off.
 
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