Don't go cheap on seats. They are an important safety device in the car. Being JDM tyte isn't worth being dead...
bride seats
- Thread starter sprouts.
- Start date
Poodles;1433229 said:
Ha, or they think you are........
I was just quoted $1100 to redo my old Momo T-Frames.
I thanked the guy for his time, and walked away.
I went with Sparco Flash 5 steering wheel with a NRGv2 quick release.
Modified momo hub so it would allow the horn slip ring post to go through it so it woud turn off the turn signals when turning the wheel.
I went with a Sparco cam lock blue 4 point harness there is a slot for 5th strap just I value my manhood too much to add the middle belt.
Instead of using the generic Sparco pedals with the one size fit all binding plates that fall off and work just for looks I went with Toyota 2000+ Celica GTS or Lexus IS300 pedals with heal rest brushed aluminum and doesnt fall off looks alot like the sparco pedals though.
Vs.
The seats I went with was the Sparco Milano 2 tone like my interior black/grey with CF door sills and console.
My interior uses the black trim with grey inserts.
The seat rails are made out of 2 oem passenger seat rails.
On the driverside with the front seat pegs are not the proper level or standoff you must put the two oem automatic driver side seat pegs on the front of the rail.
I welded 2 ¼" thick construction rebar steaks between the rail then bolted the seat to the rebar beams.
My seat rail mounts are safer then OEM they keep the slider function & cost the two oem rail sets (free) + 4 rebar steaks ($12) Home Depote + 1 Spool of welding wire (15$)
3-4hrs of actual work to jb weld a temp tach the between beams & rails mounted to my seat cutting grinding trimming welding painting drilling about 1 day to let the temp weld to dry etc.
All in all worth it to make custom OEMish rails pair for about $40.
Modified momo hub so it would allow the horn slip ring post to go through it so it woud turn off the turn signals when turning the wheel.
I went with a Sparco cam lock blue 4 point harness there is a slot for 5th strap just I value my manhood too much to add the middle belt.
Instead of using the generic Sparco pedals with the one size fit all binding plates that fall off and work just for looks I went with Toyota 2000+ Celica GTS or Lexus IS300 pedals with heal rest brushed aluminum and doesnt fall off looks alot like the sparco pedals though.
Vs.
The seats I went with was the Sparco Milano 2 tone like my interior black/grey with CF door sills and console.
My interior uses the black trim with grey inserts.
The seat rails are made out of 2 oem passenger seat rails.
On the driverside with the front seat pegs are not the proper level or standoff you must put the two oem automatic driver side seat pegs on the front of the rail.
I welded 2 ¼" thick construction rebar steaks between the rail then bolted the seat to the rebar beams.
My seat rail mounts are safer then OEM they keep the slider function & cost the two oem rail sets (free) + 4 rebar steaks ($12) Home Depote + 1 Spool of welding wire (15$)
3-4hrs of actual work to jb weld a temp tach the between beams & rails mounted to my seat cutting grinding trimming welding painting drilling about 1 day to let the temp weld to dry etc.
All in all worth it to make custom OEMish rails pair for about $40.
Evilempire: I love your seats and thanx for sharing that info on how you made them work...very helpful.
Let's don't forgot about the other seat guys out there, lol. Recaro's are awesome and if your on a budget, look at Tenzo R Seats, they are nice with surprising craftsmanship...very well built imo.
Let's don't forgot about the other seat guys out there, lol. Recaro's are awesome and if your on a budget, look at Tenzo R Seats, they are nice with surprising craftsmanship...very well built imo.