Breaking up around 3000rpm

[Satan]

Walboro fuel pump, stock Aristo injectors/fuel rail/dampner/ECU.

I did test (using multimeter) the TPSs I've used, ignitor, coilpacks, IAC Valve (it is bad - RPM bounces at idle, but tested good-according to TRSM... replacement on the way).

I have not tested the cam position sensors or crank angle sensor... which is why I am asking what had been swapped/changed during their troubleshooting.

I had Code 22 (temp sensor) with my other 2 ECUs, but the replacement I received last week shows all good. The waterneck has been chromed, so I was almost thinking that was the problem.

 

[YotaRob]

ooh you know what, are you running a manual transmission on an auto ecu? My soarer ecu when shifting my auto it sounds like it flutters and breaks up. It is built into the ecu logic so that it doesn't give shift flare. nobody ever notices this until they put a noisy pipe on. it might be that your ecu is trying to change the non exsistant ghost tranny's gears for you.
ok thats my 2¢ for the moment. I will keep pondering.
Robert

 

[GotTurbos?]

Walboro fuel pump, stock Aristo injectors/fuel rail/dampner/ECU.

I did test (using multimeter) the TPSs I've used, ignitor, coilpacks, IAC Valve (it is bad - RPM bounces at idle, but tested good-according to TRSM... replacement on the way).

I have not tested the cam position sensors or crank angle sensor... which is why I am asking what had been swapped/changed during their troubleshooting.

I had Code 22 (temp sensor) with my other 2 ECUs, but the replacement I received last week shows all good. The waterneck has been chromed, so I was almost thinking that was the problem.

Yes I did change both my cam position sensors and the crank sensor. I literally think I either changed or verified every sensor in the car before swapping the ECU for a known good one lol. I do believe that the ECU uses readings from the temp sensor to set timing so that could be an issue with your car, if your current ECU is good I guess that wouldn't be the case then. I did however have the problem with my bad ECU where it wouldn't show me any codes, so I would not trust your ecu when it says everything is okay.

 

[Satan]

Yes I did change both my cam position sensors and the crank sensor. I literally think I either changed or verified every sensor in the car before swapping the ECU for a known good one lol. I do believe that the ECU uses readings from the temp sensor to set timing so that could be an issue with your car, if your current ECU is good I guess that wouldn't be the case then. I did however have the problem with my bad ECU where it wouldn't show me any codes, so I would not trust your ecu when it says everything is okay.

I may dremel some of the chrome off, where the sensor seats onto the waterneck, just to be sure. Everything else checks out, so I am hoping it's a grounding issue of some sort.

 

[tissimo]

I may dremel some of the chrome off, where the sensor seats onto the waterneck, just to be sure. Everything else checks out, so I am hoping it's a grounding issue of some sort.

If you're talking about the ECU water temp sensor, its a closed loop and doesn't ground through the engine. The Gauge sensor does ground through the engine though.

 

[Satan]

If you're talking about the ECU water temp sensor, its a closed loop and doesn't ground through the engine. The Gauge sensor does ground through the engine though.

Dang... Took away the only scrap of hope I had left. I forgot that it is grounded via E2. I have an aftermarket temp sender/gauge.

I'll have to mess with this some more this weekend.

 

[Satan]

Any new updates from anyone? Got to try and get to more of this, this weekend (as well as put my suspension together, A/C fill, etc).

 

[Satan]

Curious to see if anyone found anything on this topic? When I first did the swap, everything ran fine, so I am curious if maybe it stopped being fine when I removed all of extra/unused wiring. Maybe there was something there from a sensor or resistance in some cicuit, which is now missing.

I just picked up another Aristo motorset today, so I am going to play around with that harness and ECU and see if there is a difference I've overlooked, when removing that extra stuff.

 

[YotaRob]

what all did you remove from the harness? transmission stuff im sure, anything else?
edit:did you shield your wires and then ground the shield for the crank and cam sensors and o2 sensors?

 

[Satan]

I did ground them, but a bit messy (had to solder the strands together with copper wire). I am almost 100% sure of the ground connections tho. I removed the auto stuff and accidentally removed the wrong TPS as well as the coolant temp sensor, then re-wired them back in. Checked for continuity, etc.

Probably leave most things in place with this newer harness, but thinking that there may be some "seemingly-unrelated" wire/connection I removed (oil level sensor and stuff like that).

Also, I know my IAC is bad and I have a replacement one, but just haven't swapped 'em yet. Maybe tonight. Hopefully, is solves ALL of my issues ;-)

 

[Satan]

Got to mess with things a little tonight...

I replaced the IACvand it did do something interesting...

It idled down to about 650, then started the bounce between 550 and 750 RPMs. So, I am almost sure that the last 2 IACv I've tried are somewhat good. I do have another on the Aristo motorset, which I have not yet removed/tried. Maybe later.

I did end up getting codes 14 and 21. I remembered that when Josh was helping me troubleshoot, we did lose the ignitor's signal a couple of times, when I messed around theECU/dash connections. I replaced the ignitor, no change. Then messed with the orientation of the ECU and pushed on some of the dash wiring... started right up. Still a sputter and running rich.

So, I am almost sure it's the wiring at the dash connectors, since I did replace/resolder the E9 connector. I did replace the E10 connector, but don't remember if I re-ran all of the wires end-to-end.

So, I've started to disassemble the newer 2J, removing the wiring along the way. We'll see how far I get with things by this weekend.

 

[Satan]

Starting to pull the current harness out and configure one of my spares... Found that on the front Cam sensor, there looks to be oil/fluid in there (where the 2 metal prongs are at). Dunno if it's oil or what-not, but could surely be the reason for running rich. Luckily, I have spares.

Also, the lower runners have fuel just sitting on the inside... talk about rich. Could it be that the injectors are leaking into the lower rail somehow? It looks to be all of them, so kinda doubt it.

 

[perpetualthought]

sorry to bump an old thread but satan u got pm

 

[Satan]

Replied to the PM, but just saw this thread. Please copy/paste what I sent U... maybe someone else had something similar. I'm travelling most f the day, but will check in later this evening.

Good luck!

 

[perpetualthought]

satan replied
Re: car breaking up thread from 2008

Much of the harness was "stuck" together and had suffered some overheating damage. Dunno what exactly fixed it, but am assuming that some of the wiring I removed, was shorting out the whole harness. I still ended up with an occassional mystery "Code 14," but found it to be the internal terminal of the B1 connector (thick B/O IGF wire). Removed it from the connector and straight-connected it and seems fine now.

Dunno what other symptoms you have, but I also kept popping off the cool blue silicone vacuum lines and would take me forever to figure out (lots of breaking up and richness). Replaced a bunch with regular vacuum hoses and used zip-ties on the remaining ones.

Good luck!