sup guys i have a 7m with a fully built block just finished it need to break it in wat do u guys suggest i know its 1000 miles and to change the oil at 50, 100, 500 they also say 2 mix up the rpms alot not to just coast and to use the engine to down shift as much as u can any input would be great ful
breaking in period?
- Thread starter noa324
- Start date
try to use periods between your sentences so people can understand what your trying to say.
there is a search function on this site, its very useful. i recommend using it.
there are two methods of breaking in a motor. for the method your talking about, start it up, then change your oil. after that,start it up and begin driving right away (make sure you dont have any leaks)... dont idle too long. make a pull to 4th gear, shifting at about 4000rpm... then downshift back down to about 20mph. do that a few times, then park it and change the oil again.
do some more research. everyone has their own opinions on how to break it in
-pete
there is a search function on this site, its very useful. i recommend using it.
there are two methods of breaking in a motor. for the method your talking about, start it up, then change your oil. after that,start it up and begin driving right away (make sure you dont have any leaks)... dont idle too long. make a pull to 4th gear, shifting at about 4000rpm... then downshift back down to about 20mph. do that a few times, then park it and change the oil again.
do some more research. everyone has their own opinions on how to break it in
-pete
A "hard" break-in seats the rings properly, and you only have a limited amount of time to seat them before they glaze...
i did it about the same way you describe OP, I avoided High RPMs early on as well. Whats the best method vs running the hell out of it i don't know for sure
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
It worked perfectly for my 1.5jz that I'm driving right now. My car doesn't smoke and it doesn't use any oil.
It worked perfectly for my 1.5jz that I'm driving right now. My car doesn't smoke and it doesn't use any oil.
I've always wondered, after the initial hard break in, when the rings are seated and all, do you still need to take it easy for a couple hundred miles? Logic says no, but are there other factors to watch out for?
I did with mine. I don't know that I needed too, but I did anyways. I don't drive my car, even now, like a maniac all the time. I race when one presents itself, but other than that I drive it like most people. I usually change gears at about thirty five hundred rpms.
I shift around 3K RPMs...
Have to do a WOT pull every now and then to prevent carbon deposits though (freeway on-ramps = FUN)
Have to do a WOT pull every now and then to prevent carbon deposits though (freeway on-ramps = FUN)
i do a weekly WOT pull in 2nd to 6k, and 3rd to 5k... but then im going fast enough to be thrown in jail... andddd my dad would not want to come get me out...
i did the first 4 miles with high vacuum, and then i got into boost, only 4psi, but still positive pressure on the rings.
i did the first 4 miles with high vacuum, and then i got into boost, only 4psi, but still positive pressure on the rings.
so during the break in how much boost should be run?
what if at wot with the stock wg spring your hitting 10psi?
and rennat how the hell did you get your car to only boost 4psi at wot?
i'm going to be building my spare engine very soon.
what if at wot with the stock wg spring your hitting 10psi?
and rennat how the hell did you get your car to only boost 4psi at wot?
i'm going to be building my spare engine very soon.
i think break-in assumes n/a operation. so i would think low or no boost is what you are seeking. W.O.T. should be at atmospheric pressure for break-in.
i think the idea is to apply careful positive (but aggresive) presure on the rings to seat them. so avoid vacume being applied and due care for heat cycling.
just my .02.
i think the idea is to apply careful positive (but aggresive) presure on the rings to seat them. so avoid vacume being applied and due care for heat cycling.
just my .02.
I agree you want to minimize boost...you don't have to go to WOT on these runs. An aggressive acceleration above 4,000-4,500 RPM is sufficient. But, putting vacuum on the rings is just as important. During the coast down for the next run, you want to downshift in order to maximize vacuum. This puts pressure on both the top and bottom of the rings to get an optimum seal.
The oil you use and when you change it is kinda important too
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993
The oil you use and when you change it is kinda important too
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48993
Yeah, people seem to think it's "drive it like you stole it," but it's not. In fact the hard break-in is a process that has to be done correctly or you risk either not breaking things in, or you overheat them and instead of breaking things in, you break them...
Breaking in my rear diff (yes IJ, it was a 4x4, so it had a front one as well) on my truck was a case of heat cycling and properly wearing both faces (acceleration and deceleration).
Same for the rings as both the pressure from acceleration pushes the rings out to the wall, the vacuum does the same, but without all the heat.
Bearings break-in as well, but they're not as critical and will wear in with time...
Breaking in my rear diff (yes IJ, it was a 4x4, so it had a front one as well) on my truck was a case of heat cycling and properly wearing both faces (acceleration and deceleration).
Same for the rings as both the pressure from acceleration pushes the rings out to the wall, the vacuum does the same, but without all the heat.
Bearings break-in as well, but they're not as critical and will wear in with time...