Break up!
- Thread starter Backlash2032
- Start date
Lean it out AND add boost. 
but no, no more mods until this shits figured. I have a buddy with a properly running supra I'm gonna do a little parts swapping with tomorrow night...
but no, no more mods until this shits figured. I have a buddy with a properly running supra I'm gonna do a little parts swapping with tomorrow night...
Don't have time to scan the whole thread so I'll just ask a few quick questions.
What's the measured voltage at each coil? Ohm the ground side to a ground on the car itself, what does it say? Is your igniter grounded? Morgansons COP mod demands a lot on the stock igniter and IIRC someone responded in his thread about the coils breaking up at higher RPMs.
What's the measured voltage at each coil? Ohm the ground side to a ground on the car itself, what does it say? Is your igniter grounded? Morgansons COP mod demands a lot on the stock igniter and IIRC someone responded in his thread about the coils breaking up at higher RPMs.
IndigoMKII;2022995 said:
I haven't checked the voltage output of the coils, and don't really know how... But yes, my ignitor is grounded. And the people saying that the morganson cop mod was breaking up was at 15+ pounds of boost, usually on a large turbo
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/manual.aspx?S=IG&P=12
Just for giggles, when was your last boost leak check?
EDIT: I just looked at your video, was that a first gear punch? If so, you look to be lacking on power. When I rebuilt my friends car, 87 turbo 5 speed, it would smoke first without a problem from a roll. It even had stock exhaust and stock plastic airbox.
Just for giggles, when was your last boost leak check?
EDIT: I just looked at your video, was that a first gear punch? If so, you look to be lacking on power. When I rebuilt my friends car, 87 turbo 5 speed, it would smoke first without a problem from a roll. It even had stock exhaust and stock plastic airbox.
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It wasn't too long ago. Couple months? But it's not running all that rich.. for a stock tune atleast. And I hace some sticky nitto 555s out back in 255.. they're pretty damn hard to spin.
But! Yes, I am lacking in power lol.
But! Yes, I am lacking in power lol.
Well, low 9.x is pretty rich, even for stock tune. Do you have a way to watch your vF as you drive? A narrowband does this amazingly as it only reads the 0-5v if you have one on hand. I'd look into a boost leak or an injector isn't spraying properly.
It's too smooth for it to be anything like fuel cut and it only sounds like one cylinder is breaking up. How old are the plugs, can you tell by them which cylinder is on the fritz?
It's too smooth for it to be anything like fuel cut and it only sounds like one cylinder is breaking up. How old are the plugs, can you tell by them which cylinder is on the fritz?
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I thought that was pretty normal for a stock tune? And brand spanking new plugs. Injectors were cleaned and flow tested 20k miles ago. All plugs don't seem to indicate anything out of the ordinary.
Under WOT VF is set to 0V (actually, under any condition where it is running open loop it will be set to 0V).
So I noticed something today... I swapped back to my original CPS (I kind of jury rigged the other one into connecting..) And when I do a pull, its slightly slower (atleast it seems that way...), and also running about .2-.3 richer.. Could both of my CPSs be causing an incomplete burn and therefore a false rich scenario? Or is it just because it's hot today and it was cool last time I did pulls?
Okay, so scratch that. I had a HUGE boost leak. The union in my EGR pipe going to the side of the intake manifold was loose. And by loose I mean the nut was completely backed off lol.
With that being said, I'm now running a solid 10.0-10.2 AFR until redline.. Well.. 5000 rpm. It still breaks up.
I tried my buddies AFM and Ignitor. With a new calibrated TPS, new coils, and the AFM and Ignitor off of my buddies car that runs well... The only thing that's really left is the CPS and wiring harness.. And this harness is MINT... What do you guys think? Is there anyway I can test the CPS? It ohms out correctly, but that's all I was able to check on it. I was going to throw my buddies on my car but he has the stock square 4 pin connector and I have a flat four weather pack connector on mine...
With that being said, I'm now running a solid 10.0-10.2 AFR until redline.. Well.. 5000 rpm. It still breaks up.
I tried my buddies AFM and Ignitor. With a new calibrated TPS, new coils, and the AFM and Ignitor off of my buddies car that runs well... The only thing that's really left is the CPS and wiring harness.. And this harness is MINT... What do you guys think? Is there anyway I can test the CPS? It ohms out correctly, but that's all I was able to check on it. I was going to throw my buddies on my car but he has the stock square 4 pin connector and I have a flat four weather pack connector on mine...
And just to give you an idea of how bad this boost leak was.. I reset my ecu and at idle on first fire up (before the ECU adjusted for it) it was sitting at 16.5:1. Yikes. Lol
I may, but I noticed that my CPS pickups were cracked today. On both of my CPSs.. could I heat shrink them if they ohm out correctly and see if it fixes my issue? Or perhaps epoxy them?
Everyone's pickups are cracked , or will be. It has no effect. In my case, I re-epoxied them during a CPS rebuild, but it ran fine before with the cracks.
I highly doubt your problem is CPS related. The CPS signal is weaker at low speed, so that is where a bad CPS might be a problem. You've ruled out fuel, so now I would focus on ignition.
I highly doubt your problem is CPS related. The CPS signal is weaker at low speed, so that is where a bad CPS might be a problem. You've ruled out fuel, so now I would focus on ignition.
So as long as the resistance is correct (mines around 160 ohms/pickup), and the air gaps are correct, the CPS should work fine? Square one I guess..