Brakes Sticking

[OfnaRcR4]

History:
When i got my car back from my mechanic, i was on my way back and the right front siezed up pretty good. I just took the caliper off and c-clamped it back in a bit and it worked fine for a bit, but now it is again giving me grief.

Problem:
My right front brakes are sticking just slightly, to the point where nobody else would be able to tell, but i can, and they get hot.
Whats my prognosis?

 

[CRE]

Are you sure it's the caliper piston which is sticking and not the guides?

 

[OfnaRcR4]

I'm not sure, i haven't gotten to brakes at school yet.:biglaugh:
What are some test i can do and what should i look for.

THX

 

[Clip]

rebuild every caliper, its pretty damn easy and pretty damn cheap.

 

[CRE]

If the guides have seized you'll know the minute you try to remove the caliper.

 

[supramacist]

My right front hangs up when it gets wet.
Someone, clip..., tell us more about calliper rebuilds.???

 

[OfnaRcR4]

If the guides have seized you'll know the minute you try to remove the caliper.

I am not sure, i know it was really hard to get off (small hammer). I am really not familiar with brakes other than doing quick brake jobs.
What should i do?
BTW, what supramacist said.

 

[supramacist]

I can do brake changes but I have never done my supra. I'm going to have a shop in town do the brakes, sprongs and shocks and mount the rear strut tower bar. I'm not into doing $hit I know is going to pi$$ me off.

I'd attempt to rebuild calipers or get the gear required I guess from my stealership.

 

[senshockey19]

rebuild the piston jus get the seals cheap effective its prob that wont g be too hard on a supra i gotta do my 4 piston caliper vette.. lol should be fun

 

[Burntz]

or if u have some money and want to do it the easy way, just go buy new 1's.. they range from 15-35 apiece usually w/ ur old ones returned.

caliper, brake house, and pads, and u shouldnt have a problem (get ur rotors turned if you can, or if they're BAD get new 1's)

 

[cuel]

If your calipers were hard to get off, you need to clean the pins, preferably with steel wool to get the rust and crud off, then use a high temp. caliper grease to lube them.

 

[supramacist]

So new toyota oem's arwe around 30 buckish with my old ones as cores???

 

[Burntz]

So new toyota oem's arwe around 30 buckish with my old ones as cores???

um.. I was talking about O reillys ones (but they're rebuilt oem cores)

but yes, should be around thier as a guestimate.

the only ones above those prices are very rare ones, or big truck calipers

 

[OfnaRcR4]

Thx guys, a couple of days ago i went ahead and took the caliper off, pumped the brake so the piston cam out a bit, and then bearing greased the crap out of it and it seems to be doing the trick for now.
I'll let you know if i get any more trouble later.

 

[supramacist]

Ya that is a temp solution. It won't last long but definitley keep us posted for sure.

 

[flubyux2]

hey, my brakes have been doing the same thing. they dont hang up very hard, but they do drag. they stay pumped up enough to the point where my pedal stays stiff if i press the pedal a second time. its like the brake fluid pressure doesnt bleed back into the resivoir fast enough. idk

they hang up enough to where there seems to be residual line pressure w/ the pedal released and my car will actually hold still on a graded intersection. i can feel the car rock when it comes to a stop from a slight roll as opposed to simply coming to a stop due to rolling resistance (unrelated to braking application/pressure). i can drive again for a few minutes and the residual pressure will subside and the pedal pressure and sensativity will return to normal and wont have the "pumped up" feeling. i cant tell if its fluid pressure taking too long to be releived or pad knockback combatting a sticky piston or slider pin or what... its ONLY the front calipers doing it and ive had the front calipers off before. they arent difficult to remove. i greased up the pins with the appropriate lube and have new pads w/ the anti-rattle clips still installed.

ive been thinking its some sort of build-up inside the brake lines, abs unit and/or proportioning valve due to infrequent brake fluid flushes. ive done Trac-pump removal on MKIV's before and found a brown film come out of the ABS pump-to-Trac pump hardline. it looks like Brown Algae to be honest with you. im just paranoid of this "algae" clogging up the ports inside my abs unit and proportioning valve and blocking bleed-back. is this possible or am i being overly analytical?

it makes me want to get the high-pressure fluid flush and ABS unit purged at the Toyota dealer for copious amounts of money...

ideas?

 

[NewWestSupras]

Rebuild/replace the calipers, and get a brake place to flush out the system afterwards. Yota charges insane amounts for service, as we all know...I got mine flushed for $50.00 at a brake shop.

 

[OneJArpus]

why not flush it urself? only will cost as much as a bottle of brake fluid. Maybe 2 or 4 dpeending on how much you need.

 

[Blade2001]

I rebuilt my front caliper and it siezed after 1 year of use.. Now, I just replaced with O'reilly rebuilt caliper for $ 27.99

 

[flubyux2]

i ahd this same problem on my ex's car and replaced pads, rotors, calipers, slider pins, caliper brackets, replaced the master cyl, diassembled and cleand the proportioning valve and eventually ended up removing the ABS system all together. removing the ABS was the only thing that fixed it.

i dont want to remov ethe abs on my car

toyota charges alot because they do alot more than just pump and bleed... and i want that extra shit that i cant do in my driveway with 2 people.