Brake Problems?? or something else? please help

[bobiseverywhere]

Well i checked the ABS Comp and it gave a Code 11

Open circuit solenoid. or something like that?????

So i am going to change the thing from my last post, plus i am not to sure what to do about the ABS.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

no one else have any feedback on this?

 

[bobiseverywhere]

well i changed the Equalizer thing and bled the lines again, same problem, guess it must be the ABS, i just cant figure out how to at least disable it in a way that it doe snot cause the problem it is now??

 

[ma7089]

have you checked the check valve?

and do you have a reserve pedal when you shut off the car?

could be normal operations, brakes just need to be warm before they work proper, but thats a long shot

 

[bobiseverywhere]

Even after they warm up its the same problem, this problem has developed out of the blue,

What Valve are you Talking about?

If you got to try these you would be scared, you push the pedal and its like you have almost no brakes, or like only the back ones are engauging and the fronts are not working at all.

 

[ATL88Supra]

Even after they warm up its the same problem, this problem has developed out of the blue,

What Valve are you Talking about?

If you got to try these you would be scared, you push the pedal and its like you have almost no brakes, or like only the back ones are engauging and the fronts are not working at all.

follow the steel brake lines (the ones comeing out of the booster)to a blue or green panted Valve

 

[bobiseverywhere]

I replaced that blue Valve already. and still the same problem, It did improved slightly but the main part of the problem is still there

 

[3p141592654]

I think he is talking about the check valve in the brake booster. But, you already swapped out the booster as I recall.

 

[twinturbozs]

How long does this take for your rock hard pedal to go away? in terms # of times you need to press the pedal?

you say it takes to warm up? engine warm up or brake system warm up?

If its engine warm up, try taking your car around the block a few times to warm up the engine, without using your main brakes, slow down by downshifting and ebrake. Once the engine is nice and warm, give your brakes a shot. see if the symptoms are still there. maybe your engine isnt generating enough vaccum when cold.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

It takes 2 or three pushes of the pedal to get any sort of good braking to --> crazy good braking, But i have to push it the first time till i hit that invisible wall then push against the wall then pump the brakes to get any good braking.

It was an error before to say when my engine warms up. the system stays like that all the time, Hot Cold engine warm cold it does not matter.

 

[twinturbozs]

So on the first pump> Normal pedal travel, but super firm w/ no braking power?
2nd pump> normal pedal travel, softer pedal but better braking power?


How long a duration does it take for the bad symptom to re-occur?
If youre driving on the freeway for a long period w/o using the brakes, with the symptom present itself again?

Is it possible to have the wrong front pads in? (ie....racing high temp pads)?
That would explain the warm up situation.

 

[bobiseverywhere]

I do have EBC Green stuff padds on the front but they have been on there for a while and thats not the problem,

Pedal travel is not Normal. it goes down about half way and then i hit the brick wall on my pedal. It is there if the car is hot cold, and same for the brakes, the only time it goes away and pedal feels somewhat normal is when, i have pumped the pedal a few times.

Forget the warm up part warm up is not the problem.

After the problem started this is what i have covered

The Blue Valve thing - replaced
Booster - replaced
Master - replaced with booster
Pistons in Calipers - verified all working properly
All line have been bled - had no problems bleeding the lines
ABS comp giving Code 11 - Open Circuit in Solenoid relay (but i have no idea what this really means as far what what i need to fix or change and if it is really my problem)

While driving car push pedal about half way down with almost no noticeable braking at all by car, then i hit the brick wall in the pedal, braking begins, have to push pedal very hard with foot to effect any braking, Wheels lock up almost instantly

If i pump then brick wall will disappear and brakes and very good and strong.

 

[twinturbozs]

Have you tried locking up the wheels - engage ABS?

Does the symptom present itself within the same driving period?
How far apart does usage need to be before it happens again?

 

[bobiseverywhere]

I have tried engaging the ABS, and the symptom is always present it is never gone now.

 

[Supra469]

Subscribed

 

[twinturbozs]

So everytime you brake, you need 2-3 presses to stop?
Can engage the ABS on the first press?
Are you losing any fluid? Check for leaks
Have you adjusted the pedal rod behind the Master cylinder?

 

[bobiseverywhere]

yes everytime i stop i need to,

I can engauge the ABS if i push really hard, If i disconnect the ABS it seems as if only the back tires are locking up if i push as hard as i can on the first push of the pedal and sometimes the front passenger side as well.

not loosing any brake fluid. Looked for that as well just yesterday.

I have not adjusted the Rod behind the master since the booster and master came together from another car, that was functional. From what i read and understand that only needs to be done when you take them apart from eachother and are using brand new parts that need to be adjusted, right??

also this problem was there before i change the parts

 

[ATL88Supra]

this really sounds like a loss of fluid problem/vac tho it cant be vac related cause if it was it would be hard as hell to brake but it would not need 2 or 3 pushes

 

[Aspec]

this really sounds like a loss of fluid problem

I agree. The fact that you have to "pump" the pedal to get the brakes to work is a tell tale sign of fluid loss, air in the system or a bad master cylinder.

Ya ya, you said you replaced the master/booster. But you swapped one used unit for another and if there was air trapped somewhere in the system and you did not bleed the system properly your problem did not go away.

So when you say you have to pump the pedal, does it start way down low and raise up as pressure builds?

 

[ATL88Supra]

drain the system 100% refill with brand new fluid bleed test


also this would be a good time to check all the brake lines at the wheels and replace them if needed