Hey guys I need a lil direction. I recently had a problem with my brake and tail lights being out. I did the warning sensor bypass and they came back on. The only problem is they stay on (well my brake lights specifically) What I want to know is; is there supposed to be constant power running through the brake wire? I just wanted to know if that was normal because if it is then I am going to have to replace my brake switch.
Brake lights stuck on... is constant power to the brake lights normal?
- Thread starter MKIIISD
- Start date
Theres supposed to be a constant illumination when you have your running lights on. They stay dim while your not on the brake, and get a lot brighter when you step on the brake. If its staying on the hi-intensity side, somethings not right.
When your off the brake, you should be able to take the white brackets out where the bulbs sit and be able to look at them without straining your eyes. If their stuck in the (on-brake) position, you might not be able to look at them without squinting.
As for the warning sensor bypass, how did you go about doing that? I've had to replace my yellow box twice and it still is giving me problems, i had to rig it up with a cotter pin sandwiched in between the yellow casing and the female plug in harness in the box so they can actually work right. If the bypass isn't too hard i might try it.
When your off the brake, you should be able to take the white brackets out where the bulbs sit and be able to look at them without straining your eyes. If their stuck in the (on-brake) position, you might not be able to look at them without squinting.
As for the warning sensor bypass, how did you go about doing that? I've had to replace my yellow box twice and it still is giving me problems, i had to rig it up with a cotter pin sandwiched in between the yellow casing and the female plug in harness in the box so they can actually work right. If the bypass isn't too hard i might try it.
It is completely normal for brake lights to have constant power.
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=074
http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TEWD/MK3/manual.aspx?S=Main&P=074
Yeah it isn't the running lights like when the headlights are on. When I switch the headlights off they shut off like they should. But my brake lights stay lit up like I'm pressing the brake. Fuses are fine maybe it could be a relay? The brake switch looks ok at first glance but I will probably have to rip it out this weekend. Oh and I googl'ed the rewire how to its on this forum I believe.
Sounds like you connected the wrong wires. If this wasn't a problem before your re-wire, I doubt that the brake switch went bad after you did it.
Personally, I'm not a fan of deleting the failure box, but to each his own.
Personally, I'm not a fan of deleting the failure box, but to each his own.
Seriously, did you look at the TEWD link I put up?
There is no relay. Power goes from the battery to the STOP fuse, from there, it goes to the brake switch, and on to the failure sensor module, where it gets passed on to the lights. It should take a very short time to diagnose this.
I'm also not a fan of deleting the failure sensor box. I like having something tell me when I've got tail lights out, since it's hard to see for myself, and the last thing that I want is an excuse for the local constabulary to pull me over for a chat.
First off, pull the STOP fuse. If the brake lights go off, then at least you know that they're getting power through the correct circuit.
If you're getting power to the brake lights when you don't want it, check first that the tail light failure module isn't at fault. Disconnect it, and check for +12V at the green/white wire (Pin 7) at the failure box. If there is +12V on that line, then the failure module is NOT the problem, since the brake lights SHOULD be on when that line has power.
Next check that you aren't getting power between the switch and the failure sensor. Unplug the switch at the brake pedal. (It's a fairly simple switch, and not too difficult to get access to.) If you unplug the switch, and the brake lights stay on, then you've mucked up the wiring somewhere and bypassed the brake switch. If they go off, then troubleshoot the switch. It's also a pretty simple thing. If the pedal is up, it depresses a plunger, opening the switch. Pressing the pedal allows the switch to close. In my old Neon, I had a problem where the switch mount was a bit loose, so the brake lights would come on sometimes at random. I fixed it with a zip tie (it was a Neon, after all) and it never gave me a problem again.
So, your potential problem points:
Bypass of brake light switch.
Mechanical failure of brake light switch, possibly mount, possibly the part of the brake pedal bar that presses the switch.
Tail lamp failure sensor. (Unlikely, IMO.)
There is no relay. Power goes from the battery to the STOP fuse, from there, it goes to the brake switch, and on to the failure sensor module, where it gets passed on to the lights. It should take a very short time to diagnose this.
I'm also not a fan of deleting the failure sensor box. I like having something tell me when I've got tail lights out, since it's hard to see for myself, and the last thing that I want is an excuse for the local constabulary to pull me over for a chat.
First off, pull the STOP fuse. If the brake lights go off, then at least you know that they're getting power through the correct circuit.
If you're getting power to the brake lights when you don't want it, check first that the tail light failure module isn't at fault. Disconnect it, and check for +12V at the green/white wire (Pin 7) at the failure box. If there is +12V on that line, then the failure module is NOT the problem, since the brake lights SHOULD be on when that line has power.
Next check that you aren't getting power between the switch and the failure sensor. Unplug the switch at the brake pedal. (It's a fairly simple switch, and not too difficult to get access to.) If you unplug the switch, and the brake lights stay on, then you've mucked up the wiring somewhere and bypassed the brake switch. If they go off, then troubleshoot the switch. It's also a pretty simple thing. If the pedal is up, it depresses a plunger, opening the switch. Pressing the pedal allows the switch to close. In my old Neon, I had a problem where the switch mount was a bit loose, so the brake lights would come on sometimes at random. I fixed it with a zip tie (it was a Neon, after all) and it never gave me a problem again.
So, your potential problem points:
Bypass of brake light switch.
Mechanical failure of brake light switch, possibly mount, possibly the part of the brake pedal bar that presses the switch.
Tail lamp failure sensor. (Unlikely, IMO.)
I think he mentioned that he already removed the failure box from the circuit, but thats all definitely the right advice/ actions.
MKIIISD;1973397 said:
Taking 1:3....
In all seriousness, why not fix it according to the EWD? If you do, they will work right.
uhhh first of all I appreciate the help but I only said there was a relay on the interior fuse banel because that is what I read could be the problem in a thread similar to this one on another site. The bypass was followed step by step from the how to on this site and I checked and pulled the stop fuse before I even made this thread. I only asked about the constant power thing to be sure the switch would be my last area for trouble shooting. Again I pretty much did everything you suggested before I even started the thread the last part is that switch and I wanted to make sure it could only be that before pulling out my front seat and straining my neck. But yeah thanks for the more indepth explanation of the brake switch.Dan_Gyoba;1974279 said:
Crack me up. For Dan:
[video=youtube;KCfYWELLwZY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCfYWELLwZY[/video]
[video=youtube;KCfYWELLwZY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KCfYWELLwZY[/video]
Wanted to add some closure for any one searching for a thread like this in the future. Ok found the problem brakelight switch was boken and brittle. I replaced that but I found out the connection to it is burnt and some wires broke (idk if I did that) anyway goibg to have to rip the cluster out and repair the harness.
Well, I'm better at dodging being hit with a stick... But this experience certainly doesn't make me want to help people much in the way of troubleshooting.jetjock;1974434 said: