is it possible to set up your brakes so when you step on the pedal it is 60% front and 40% rear? and what is the brake bias stock?
brake bias?
- Thread starter Wilcox
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I did this awhile ago, and it looks to be about 70/30 f/r.
If someone wants to correct my numbers feel free, I'd like to know.
I'm not sure how you would change bias without changing calipers.
It's a screenshot from a brake bias calculator website that I found through google. I input the dimensions for the stock rotors, pads, and calipers, and it spits out an approx number (in this case 0.709) as a percentage of braking biased to the front, so stock brakes are approx 70/30 front/rear.
if you change any of the brake components, you can calculate an approximate change in bias, if you know all of the numbers.
here is the site: http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/
if you change any of the brake components, you can calculate an approximate change in bias, if you know all of the numbers.
here is the site: http://www.tceperformanceproducts.com/bias-calculator/
Like this you mean? https://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=4539&parentid=0&stocknumber=14-76240
I'd do a bunch more research to be sure though.
I'd do a bunch more research to be sure though.
There is already a proportioning valve in the system...
Be very careful with brake bias. It's far safer to be conservative and keep the fronts heavily biased than to lock up the backs under emergency braking.
Be very careful with brake bias. It's far safer to be conservative and keep the fronts heavily biased than to lock up the backs under emergency braking.
all i want to do is make the front bias more heavy but i guess if stock bias is 70/30 than what ill do is just upgrade front rotors and pads and leave the rear stock. i also heard that stainless steel brake lines help a bunch because they dont flex under pressure, thus making the ped stiff as f*ck?
I have SS brake lines. (well.. ss braided brake lines is more correct)
The pedal isn't stiff as f*ck... but there is no pedal "bounce" or fade...
The pedal isn't stiff as f*ck... but there is no pedal "bounce" or fade...
Wilcox;1921905 said:
Why? Weight transfer happens when you accelerate and decelerate. It doesn't change no matter the suspension. The suspension keeps the contact patch while the weight shift happens. Changing what the engineers already figured out is not a good idea. Especially on this car.
Wilcox;1922272 said:
On top of the front bias, the rears are applied slightly first, on all cars. Don't change that if you go out and buy something to altar stock settings. Yes, new brake lines, even stock, would make the pedal feel stiffer and more responsive because the confined area would not expand as much.
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i dont plan on installing a bias pressure valve i think that is a waste of time. i just want to improve the weight transfer to the front when i step on the brakes so there is less weight on the rear tires. it sounds like i can acomplish this by installing new brake lines, and improving the front brake components.
So i can handle the car more efficiantly, and initiate a drift more efficiantly. Simplicticly speaking i want to go sideways!
Poodles;1922423 said:
Fixed that for you. Why not just tug the e-brake instead of change how the car will handle under braking?
E-brake isn't a wise choice considering the shoes are thin and expensive... Clutch pop with a healthy press of the loud pedal works wonders.
We're not an old AE86 with no power...
We're not an old AE86 with no power...
Mustang Cobra 13 inch brake upgrade is pretty decent. I did that and braided brake lines for my drifting. It's nice when something happens as I press the middle pedal. Come to realize it, something happens when I press every pedal now. Good brakes, new clutch, 2JZGTE swap
Poodles;1922506 said:
your kind of right?!?! yes clutch kick drifting is effective but not in any situation. i would like to watch you take a high speed technical corner and "pop" the clutch in 3rd and contoll the car while sideways with mk3 terrible steering angle and do anything but spin out. the more correct form of that is called clutch lock drifting where you down shift and precisly let off the clutch to break traction, but for the most part a little pull of my trusty e-brake and then stomp the pedal works well. im not sure about you but e-brake shoes are easier and cheaper than a clutch, considering that my stock clutch will wear out faster than aftermarket
I wouldn't ever do anything you're talking about simply because grip > drift 
Not to mention the terrible steering angle and that the car is FAT and not built for it.
Regardless, a clutch will last significantly longer than the e-brake shoes (I'm not kidding, they're VERY VERY thin) and it's not that strong to begin with.
Ultimately your car, but I've never, EVER seen a clean drift car, so in my eyes I see another car headed for the crusher...
Not to mention the terrible steering angle and that the car is FAT and not built for it.Regardless, a clutch will last significantly longer than the e-brake shoes (I'm not kidding, they're VERY VERY thin) and it's not that strong to begin with.
Ultimately your car, but I've never, EVER seen a clean drift car, so in my eyes I see another car headed for the crusher...