Boosted My SC300

snomangsx901237

New Member
Oct 16, 2007
158
0
0
Fall River, Ma
Total install time: 6 Hours
Total Part/Misc time: 4 hours


Here are some pics of my install on my 92 SC300 5spd:

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Oil Feed tap location
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RazoE

Boobs/Boost, my favorite
Jun 13, 2006
4,946
3
38
39
Los Angeles
www.cafepress.com
please tell me you've secured the fliter better than that..!!


But aside from that, great job! Going to swap out for an R154 later on, or keep the w58..?
 

snomangsx901237

New Member
Oct 16, 2007
158
0
0
Fall River, Ma
The filter will be secured better. I forgot to clamp it. As far as tranny goes I'm hoping to keep the w58 as long as possible.

Here's a couple of pics of the outside....

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williamb82

Member
Apr 24, 2005
906
4
18
42
Tampa, Fl.
couple questions. can you elaborate on your oil feed tap location? i dont see an oil feed for the turbo. also what did you do for the drain. and another thing. i see i/c. pipes, turbo, etc.. but what are you doing for fuel? i dont see any sort of fuel management.
 

Mo87NA

1987 7M-GE & 1991 7M-GTE
Mar 31, 2005
778
8
18
38
Upstate NY
Might need to change your valve cover gaskets. Other than that, looks great! ;)

-Mo

Edit: Turbo specs, where it was purchased, etc??
 

88-7MGTE

New Member
williamb82;1292216 said:
couple questions. can you elaborate on your oil feed tap location? i dont see an oil feed for the turbo. also what did you do for the drain. and another thing. i see i/c. pipes, turbo, etc.. but what are you doing for fuel? i dont see any sort of fuel management.


X2 \

If you plan on running just on air it wont be far. Injectors, pump, management its a must and you should hall ass.

Nice car btw
 

snomangsx901237

New Member
Oct 16, 2007
158
0
0
Fall River, Ma
Well thanks for all the positive feedback guys. Much appreciated. As far as the oil tap I had the bolt for the oil filter housing drilled and tapped for an npt fitting. For the oil drain I used -8 se tainless braided hose with an oil drain flange that I had made locally.


As far as management goes I have an SAFC2 in the car. I have MKIII injectors waiting to go in but I don't have a resistor box for it yet.


As far as whats next with the car. Put the injectors in, then a clutch and flywheel, Mishimoto TT radiator, wideband then tune it. Eventually an exhaust and fuel pump and I'll be done for a while. The clutch is huge because the one in the car isn't holding at all.
 

queenskid926

Tires yeling @ every Lite
Jul 27, 2007
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New York City
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ok you have the oil drain going to the oil pan? did you have to pull the motor to drill or weld the falnge you had made to the oil pan? or is the j oil pan 2 piece and you just removed the lower piece?
 

snomangsx901237

New Member
Oct 16, 2007
158
0
0
Fall River, Ma
queenskid926;1293569 said:
ok you have the oil drain going to the oil pan? did you have to pull the motor to drill or weld the falnge you had made to the oil pan? or is the j oil pan 2 piece and you just removed the lower piece?


The only drain flange goes on the upper oil pan. Basically you drill a 1/2 hole in the pan and drill two m8 holes for the flange. No welding required. You need patience, brake parts clean, vaseline, and a right angle drill. I rented it from home depot. Ill try to post some pics. Haven't really had a chance.
 

queenskid926

Tires yeling @ every Lite
Jul 27, 2007
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New York City
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snomangsx901237;1293720 said:
The only drain flange goes on the upper oil pan. Basically you drill a 1/2 hole in the pan and drill two m8 holes for the flange. No welding required. You need patience, brake parts clean, vaseline, and a right angle drill. I rented it from home depot. Ill try to post some pics. Haven't really had a chance.

where there any issues with metal scraps getting into the oil pan? how did you prevent that?
 

snomangsx901237

New Member
Oct 16, 2007
158
0
0
Fall River, Ma
If you coat the hole bit with lots of vaseline and drill in and out slowly the aluminum flake is very very minimal. Patience is key. Its good to just go slow. Once you have the hole drilled clean with lots of brake parts cleaner and rags or use a shop-vac to suck out the flakes. Once the hose is on the flange and you bolt the flange to the oil pan remove the oil pan bolt. Put a drain pan under the hole. After with the drain hose in your hand run oil in the line so that it goes in the oil pan and forces the rest of the flake out of the oil pan. I used a 1 1/2 quarts and it worked well. If you wanna be safe run 2qts.


Obviously the 100% best and right way to do it is to take the pans apart and do all that fun stuff. I had read some different things and I found this to be the best route for me.



Here are some pics of the oil feed tap:
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