boost problem, not boost leak

[viper92086]

ok i have two problems, heres the first one, when my car is cold i can easily do 8psi and as its warmed up (about 20 min of driving i can only do 5psi) i checked for leaks, went thru 3 bov's and i'm running out of ideas. Could it be a tired wastegate? i was gonna try shimming it to do 10psi what you guys think? (i figure the spring is tired i could help it out with the washers as well as gain sum power)

And the other problem is say i rev my motor and let it go it will die, but not immediatly. i can tap it and it could go back to normal. I have a hks replica with a recirc fitting. I never had a prob wit my stock bov, but had the same problem with the hks and a turboxs (both recirculated). Now i have about a foot long hose that the air has to recirc thru b 4 hitting the accordian (hose is between the bov and the acordian, its 3/4in ID. Whereas the stock bov sits on the accordian (i had a 6in 5/8 ID hose going from the IC pipe to the bov, then the bov just sat on the accordian), do you guys think this can cause stalling? maybe the air released can't reach the accordian with enough pressure since it has to travel thru a foot long hose? i could move the bov but then it wouldn't look as nice the way its setup now.

thanks guys

 

[Nick M]

I don't think that is too abnormal, the boost drop when hot.

An aftermarket blow off valve replacing the stock bypass valve can cause stalling if it isn't recirculated. It could be leaking. Since you rev the engine, filling it with fuel, and closing the plate is exactly why the stock bypass valve is on there.

 

[flight doc89]

I don't know what the problem is, but you shouldn't be driving hard enough to boost when the engine is cold. That's just asking for trouble

 

[viper92086]

cold as in the guage just got to operating temp, sorry i meant to clarify that

 

[viper92086]

I don't think that is too abnormal, the boost drop when hot.

An aftermarket blow off valve replacing the stock bypass valve can cause stalling if it isn't recirculated. It could be leaking. Since you rev the engine, filling it with fuel, and closing the plate is exactly why the stock bypass valve is on there.

btw both turbo xs and the new hks rep are both recirc the same way the stock was

 

[1988SupraDreams]

cold as in the guage just got to operating temp, sorry i meant to clarify that

Still an under-hood temperature difference. Just because the Gauge reads one thing doesn't mean that the turbo is not way hotter or very close to the gauge reading.

 

[Supraboy89]

it is probably your wastegate . shimming it will help. just dont put to many washers in cause u dont want to raise your boost to much

 

[starscream5000]

I recomend not boosting until you OIL is up to operating temps, not you coolant. Give it 15-30 mins AFTER the water temp is up to operating temps to be safe. You want the oil to properly lubricate the turbo and engine, it will not do as good of a job until it is up to temp .

 

[Clip]

like ss5k said, id recommend getting an aftermarket oil temp gauge as well as an aftermarket water temp gauge. the stock one isnt too accurate (like a warning light with a needle).

 

[viper92086]

yea i will get one eventually, when the funds are avail.