i was told about a hose behind the alternator that goes from the block to the head. whats that for?
kotu100;1366560 said:oil return, its how the oil goes back from the valve covers to the block.
i forgot to put my oil filler cap back on and drove the car unknowingly. Oddly little to no smoke was seen out the muffler. I tried the same thing today purposely and the same thing happened. Little to no smoke and i was racing the car to see if smoke would come out.
lewis15498;1370688 said:Your compression test suggests bad rings. Just speculating here but with the cap off the crankcase pressure is zero, so your af mix was blowing by the piston rings even easier, thus less oil was finding its way up into the cylinders, does your oil smell like its getting fuel in it?
Torque the head to 75 and use ARP head studs and rod bolts.lewis15498;1371167 said:I know this wasnt what you wanted to hear but pull the motor again. My advice is to do everything now so you dont have to pull it again.
Have the block machined, measure the cylinder for out of round per tsrm specs, if its out have it bored out, eitherway, you need to have the cylinders honed for the new rings to break in properly. Get all new seals for it. new rod and main bearings. Change the oil pump while you have it out. I reccomend you use an OEM unit.
Have the cylinder head checked for hardness. If it fails, find a new head, if the machine shop doesnt know how to do a hardness test find a new shop. If it passes, have the head machined and have the valve seals replaced as well as anything else that shows wear such as the valves or guides or springs. Put it all back together with a new HG and timing belt as well as well as all the other gaskets. Be sure to replace the EGR cooler gasket with an OEM as the felpro is junk paper (a leaky egr cooler plate can easily cook your brakelines and boil the fluid, learned this the hard way). use Toyota FIPG or equivilent on the oil pan, and relpace the clutch if you didnt when you put the motor in. The egr cooler and oil pan are super easy to remove when the engine is out and a super bitch to remove when its in the car, so always check those two things while its out. Finally make sure you break it in properly. Its alot of money and time, but once its done you will have a solid reliable setup that will put a smile on your face for many years to come.
good luck
Guys feel free to chime in if I forgot anything.
Another MkIII;1371456 said:Torque the head to 75 and use ARP head studs and rod bolts.
-AM3
jdub;1332632 said:ARP spec for studs is 80 ft/lbs using moly...you do not want to exceed this.