Blown head gasket have a few questions
- Thread starter bubb rubb
- Start date
First off you have to have " 2 " things that matter the most, 1st is enough money, 2nd is a GREAT machine shop that knows these motors, and knows that MHG's for these motors. each step has to be perfect if you want a great motor, I would go with a 1.2mm HKS with arp head studs get all your gaskets for the motor from Toyota, the ebay 76.00 only 1.2 of them are really good to use.
Regarding your "budget", you keep referring to "your mechanic". If you have your own mechanic it shouldn't matter what it costs. You shouldn't even have to tell him what to do.
If you want an estimate.. here it is..
BHG repair with no head work (not even a resurface)... just gaskets, oil and coolant should run you around $1700.00
If you need head work and resurface add an additional $1500.00 for the mechanic to strip the head, send it out for resurfacing and reassembling it.
If you need the block surfaced it will have to be removed.
My best guess is the entire job will run you around $4000.00 if you don't have to remove the block. Doing a head gasket on your car is around 17 hours labor. Multiply that by how much your mechanic gets per hour and thats your labor cost alone. In Connecticut that translates to around $1000.00 labor only. Parts will run you an additional $750.00 if you do it the right way.
Not at a dealership level. That's pretty close depending on all the hidden expenses from all the old brittle parts falling apart when you start to work on it. Most techs @ work either add extra time if they get a 7m car (especially a gte) or refuse to work on it just for things like that.
If you want an estimate.. here it is..
BHG repair with no head work (not even a resurface)... just gaskets, oil and coolant should run you around $1700.00
If you need head work and resurface add an additional $1500.00 for the mechanic to strip the head, send it out for resurfacing and reassembling it.
If you need the block surfaced it will have to be removed.
My best guess is the entire job will run you around $4000.00 if you don't have to remove the block. Doing a head gasket on your car is around 17 hours labor. Multiply that by how much your mechanic gets per hour and thats your labor cost alone. In Connecticut that translates to around $1000.00 labor only. Parts will run you an additional $750.00 if you do it the right way.
Not at a dealership level. That's pretty close depending on all the hidden expenses from all the old brittle parts falling apart when you start to work on it. Most techs @ work either add extra time if they get a 7m car (especially a gte) or refuse to work on it just for things like that.
no that estimate is WAY WAY WAY to much.. i had a Toyota Dealership do my head gasket job, they tore the motor apart, did resurfacing/machining, replaced intake mani gaskets, and exhaust mani gaskets, they re-drilled the stud holes for my ehxuast manifold studs cuase the holes were striped out, and they put new studs and bolts on it. they replaced SEVERAL hoses, coolant lines and things like that. they did a great job on it. and guess what?? only cost me $1200 total. thats with parts and labor, and my buying 3 different heads cause the first two i was sold were warped or pitted to much. but honestly from what your saying about this mechanic i wouldn't let him even touch my car, that just my personal opinion... he works on hondas!! but if the labor is free i dont know... i would just watch over his shoulder the entire time
FIRST off he NEEDS to do compression tests on the cylinders, and possibly a block tester. you need to know for sure that its your head gasket and not your turbo, or somthing else going wrong. although changing your head gasket will need to be done at one point or another anyway.
FIRST off he NEEDS to do compression tests on the cylinders, and possibly a block tester. you need to know for sure that its your head gasket and not your turbo, or somthing else going wrong. although changing your head gasket will need to be done at one point or another anyway.
suprafanatic;1122465 said:
$1200 at the toyo stealership. Somebody must have gotten fired for you giving you that deal.
My toyo dealership wanted $28.00 for a thermostat, $64.00 for the accordian hose and $47.00 for the AC blower resistor. Now here is the real kick in the sack. The parts were not in stock and I couldn't pay for them over the phone. Now add gas and tax to that deal:thumbsdow I don't dare ask what a head gasket job would cost.
By the way what torque setting did they use on those head bolts?
i got ARP Head Studs, i told them to torque it to 82ft lbs. and they did. they even did the re-torque job after the 500 mile break in period 
they treat me right and i keep going back to them. and no, the guy didn't get fired. he has even done work for free for me. its a one of a kind shop IMO.
they treat me right and i keep going back to them. and no, the guy didn't get fired. he has even done work for free for me. its a one of a kind shop IMO.suprafanatic;1122500 said:i got ARP Head Studs, i told them to torque it to 82ft lbs. and they did. they even did the re-torque job after the 500 mile break in period
I going to consider moving to mattoon ,il
hehe.. the bad part is i just moved im in Indiana now... but good news is im around alot more supra owners now. there werent any where i lived before.
im in Indiana now... but good news is im around alot more supra owners now. there werent any where i lived before.0.o holy crap i mean what the guy said before like a 1000 with no labor charges because the guy is working for free sounds a lil more acurate haha finding a machine shop in wichita seems tough tho. Idk what this 4000$ BS is all about but if that was the case shit i may as well junk this and buy a new damn car i paid 3000 for the car and 1500 for the motor... what you are saying is my car is almost totalled by a BHG? i live in KS not Conn maybe your crap is just ridiculusly overpriced? well thanks for the advice guys i appreciate it
I just did this entire process. I went out for estimates and ended up doing all the work (except for the machining of the head) myself. The estimate I gave you is accurate for what repair shops get in Connecticut.
To answer your question.... you mentioned that with the prices I quoted you would think that a BHG is a death blow to a MKIII. Well.. you are more right then wrong. Most of the Supra's for sale around here have blown head gaskets. Unless you can wrench your own car they are entirely too expensive to have repaired by a shop. The shop who quoted me $1700.00 providing the head needed no repairs or resurfacing is a very reasonable shop.
The machine shop I brought the head to quoted me $1500 to strip the head, machine it and put it all back together. I stripped it, I put new valve stem seals in, new cam seals and I had to buy the spring installation/removal tool and some Toyota only gaskets and it cost me about $250.00 total. I also replaced the water pump $51.00, the timing belt $41.00, head bolts were $80.00, fuel injector O rings and cushions ($30.00), the head gasket and the intake and exhaust gaskets ran me about $240.00. All together.. the parts and fluids ran me about $750.00. It took me a total of 40 hours to do the entire job because I detailed and painted everything. I also cleaned the valves really well and the piston tops. I spent my time and did everything the correct way.
Bottom line is that unless you do it yourself.. its gonna cost alot of money.
To answer your question.... you mentioned that with the prices I quoted you would think that a BHG is a death blow to a MKIII. Well.. you are more right then wrong. Most of the Supra's for sale around here have blown head gaskets. Unless you can wrench your own car they are entirely too expensive to have repaired by a shop. The shop who quoted me $1700.00 providing the head needed no repairs or resurfacing is a very reasonable shop.
The machine shop I brought the head to quoted me $1500 to strip the head, machine it and put it all back together. I stripped it, I put new valve stem seals in, new cam seals and I had to buy the spring installation/removal tool and some Toyota only gaskets and it cost me about $250.00 total. I also replaced the water pump $51.00, the timing belt $41.00, head bolts were $80.00, fuel injector O rings and cushions ($30.00), the head gasket and the intake and exhaust gaskets ran me about $240.00. All together.. the parts and fluids ran me about $750.00. It took me a total of 40 hours to do the entire job because I detailed and painted everything. I also cleaned the valves really well and the piston tops. I spent my time and did everything the correct way.
Bottom line is that unless you do it yourself.. its gonna cost alot of money.
I would rethink exactly what tour going to do, you will end up spending another 1200.00 no matter what little things always go wrong and parts of that age tend to wear and break easy. Just be aware when you make a list of expenses just add 1200.00 to it
No offense man, but if you're willing to pay that much, then you're every shop's dream customer. That's raping and then some. Up here in Toronto you can get your motor torn down, block and head resurfaced and the MHG & ARP's installed for like 800 bucks.
jgcable;1122961 said:
$1500 to strip and machine the head??? WOW thats stupid crazy high.. the dealership that did my headgasket job took my head to a shop they know of and it only cost $150.. $1500 for machining a head is stupid
I am also in the process of diagnosing blown turbo/BHG. if its the head gasket i'll be replacing it myself with MHG and ARP's.
Can machine shops mill the head with the valvetrain still in?
if i get the block machined what prep is required for the block?
I plan on running no more than a 57 trim and supporting mods, is it really neccesary to use a stopper type gasket or would something like a Titan MHG suffice?
Sorry if this seems like a thread jack, but i feel these are questions you might want to ask as well.
Can machine shops mill the head with the valvetrain still in?
if i get the block machined what prep is required for the block?
I plan on running no more than a 57 trim and supporting mods, is it really neccesary to use a stopper type gasket or would something like a Titan MHG suffice?
Sorry if this seems like a thread jack, but i feel these are questions you might want to ask as well.
Get the head rebuilt as the valve stem seals are more than likely old and shot anyway, and if you're that far into the head you might as well have it rebuilt...
Poodles;1127710 said:
its a new factory head, put in 3k miles ago, somehow i doubt the valve stem seals are gone.....its just the same old oil in the coolant and oil in on the pistons again. my father helped me pay for my first BHG and he wouldn't allow me to put in a MHG/ARP's. but thats a different story
Hi Guys,
I am going to be getting my Head Gasket sorted very soon it's on it's way out.
As a novice and not very mechanically minded could I ask a very basic question?
I note there are ARP head bolts and ARP head studs available, do I need both studs and bolts or is it either/or.
I am going to be getting my Head Gasket sorted very soon it's on it's way out.
As a novice and not very mechanically minded could I ask a very basic question?
I note there are ARP head bolts and ARP head studs available, do I need both studs and bolts or is it either/or.
First off, the cost of over 4k to do that is friggin nuts. I am still waiting on back ordered parts, and then sending my motor in to get built. Im in northern IL and have a good machine shop. The head getting surfaced to an RA of atleast 12 or better, a mild port job, 3 angle valve job, new valve guides, and them disassembling my head and reassembling the head with new 264 cams and springs/retainers and shims is going to run about 800 bux for everything. Then im getting my crank balanced and having them assemble the block with new rods, pistons, and rings. Eagle rods, probe pistons, and moly rings. Im going to spend about 1500-2000 in labor, and this is a performance build. ARP studs, and HKS MHG. If your going to run only 12psi, you could get away with a stock HG set for your car with ARP studs. http://www.nopionline.com/nopistore...id=1&vTitle=1989%20TOYOTA Supra&vn=0&vt=0 This is nopi online, and they have tons of parts for the supra. That is for my 89 turbo car. You can get some things for a little less at drift motion, and horse power freaks, but nopi pretty much has it all. Im guessing you are wanting 12 psi on the stock CT-26 turbo. Here is my suggestions.
ARP studs (head and main)
Stock HG, or 1.2mm MHG
New bearings (you never know how bad the ones u have are and they are like 100 bux)
A valve job
New valve guides and seals
a manual boost controller (or electronic pick your poision)
A good boost gauge ( stock one only goes to 8psi)
Wide band o2 sensor (aem uego would be a good option for o2 and adjustability)
Full engine gasket set ( its 180 bux, and worth replacing what you can and know its good)
Oil pump (old ones kinda blow, shim the pressure relief to increase oil pressure)
ARP studs (head and main)
Stock HG, or 1.2mm MHG
New bearings (you never know how bad the ones u have are and they are like 100 bux)
A valve job
New valve guides and seals
a manual boost controller (or electronic pick your poision)
A good boost gauge ( stock one only goes to 8psi)
Wide band o2 sensor (aem uego would be a good option for o2 and adjustability)
Full engine gasket set ( its 180 bux, and worth replacing what you can and know its good)
Oil pump (old ones kinda blow, shim the pressure relief to increase oil pressure)