Blown head gasket... Future plans and temp fixes... Pls help

[Jokervrs]

First off let me start off by saying.. I do realize this is not good for the engine and its not going to last me for very long.. Butt!!! i dont have the money for a new head, resurface, or anything along those lines at the moment. So im going to use a gasket sealer, Its called K & W block and gasket sealer, Supposedly microscopic moleclues so it gets in the cracks and imperfections. My mechanic recomended it for a temporary fix. hes done it to a few cars that went into his shop and they returned 2 years later to have it resealed. My oil has "Mayo" in it, and spark plugs have been affected as well.

I do understand its not going to hold up if i drive the car hard and push it. At this point i just need the car running to get myself around untill i have the money for a swap. Ive also looked up reviews on it on google. everybody has claimed it works, do not forget i AM SWAPPING fresh new engine.

So... I have an 87 N/a Sport package supra. It has a BHG and once the sealant gives out i am prepared to swap the motor out. But what do i swap it with? I DO NOT WANT A 1J or 2J, i do realize they have more potential but for my budget the 7m can be much quicker than a 2j with the same money from what i know "Not much" lol. So its either a 7m turbo or 7m N/a Into turbo. Sugestions along the lines of... Cost wise, Also i need to swap tranny to 5Speed, its currently Auto Blah!!

Top 3 answers im looking for
7m turbo? or make 7m a turbo?
how much would a 7m swap cost?
how much would a rebuild cost with turbo tranny installed??

EDIT: If the head is warped... big possibility... How much would that cost to get it resurfaced and put in with new gasket?

 

[jgcable]

Make sure you have a towing service like AAA because you are gonna need it.
If you do the complete BHG job yourself correctly it should run you around $750.00 in parts.
If you bring it to a repair shop it should cost between $1500.00 and $2000.00 depending on how the head looks. It has to be resurfaced regardless. The resurfacing is only $150.00 but you have to dissasemble the head first.
I hate to give you bad news but.... that stuff you are going to use is not going to work. Not even temporarily.

 

[dmon]

i got quoted +/- 80 bucks to get the head resurfaced. And its a big job to change a hg, and i heard maybe 500 to do it. But im not to sure on the price i gave you.

Also it would be a good idea to get arp head stud kit to torque the head down more than the stock bolts.

hope i answered one of your question :icon_razz

 

[jgcable]

i got quoted +/- 80 bucks to get the head resurfaced. And its a big job to change a hg, and i heard maybe 500 to do it. But im not to sure on the price i gave you.

Also it would be a good idea to get arp head stud kit to torque the head down more than the stock bolts.

hope i answered one of your question :icon_razz

$80.00 is a good price. keep in mind, that price means you are bringing them a stripped block ready for cleaning and surfacing.
$500.00 for a BHG??? No way.. no how. I was quoted $1700.00 if the head didn't need any repairs. That didn't include any new parts except for a water pump. The necessary parts alone to do a BHG are gonna run you $300.00+ and thats if you don't do it the right way.
Parts and machine shop work cost me $750.00 total and I did all the work myself. I replaced the timing belt, water pump, valve stem seals, injector o-rings, injector cushions, all the belts, cam seals, head bolts and a bunch of other stuff necessary to do the job correctly.

 

[dmon]

lol 500 was my educated guess :icon_razz

but damn 1700 is alot. good thing i have a friend that will help me rebuild my engine

 

[89Joe]

Turboing a GE can be more costly then you might think, and if you don't do it right, you'll end up blowing the motor. Most of the guys on here will tell you to just swap in a GTE which is much easier. Read the stickys at the top of the section, they hold a wealth of information.

Don't be cheap, if you go cheap, you'll pay for it. Simple as that.

 

[Jokervrs]

Make sure you have a towing service like AAA because you are gonna need it.
If you do the complete BHG job yourself correctly it should run you around $750.00 in parts.
If you bring it to a repair shop it should cost between $1500.00 and $2000.00 depending on how the head looks. It has to be resurfaced regardless. The resurfacing is only $150.00 but you have to dissasemble the head first.
I hate to give you bad news but.... that stuff you are going to use is not going to work. Not even temporarily.

Ill be putting it in tomorrow hopefully. takes about 12 hours to cure i believe. regaurdless im going to give it a try if it works... it works.. if not... Then ill look into a swap.

i got quoted +/- 80 bucks to get the head resurfaced. And its a big job to change a hg, and i heard maybe 500 to do it. But im not to sure on the price i gave you.

Also it would be a good idea to get arp head stud kit to torque the head down more than the stock bolts.

hope i answered one of your question :icon_razz

Ive been comming up on APR studs often. whats the difference? can i just torque the Shyt out of the bolts on the head?

i got quoted +/- 80 bucks to get the head resurfaced. And its a big job to change a hg, and i heard maybe 500 to do it. But im not to sure on the price i gave you.

Also it would be a good idea to get arp head stud kit to torque the head down more than the stock bolts.

hope i answered one of your question :icon_razz

Correct me if im wrong, to change the head gasket the entire intake manafold needs to be removed... plugs, bolts and thats it right? or is there more?

Turboing a GE can be more costly then you might think, and if you don't do it right, you'll end up blowing the motor. Most of the guys on here will tell you to just swap in a GTE which is much easier. Read the stickys at the top of the section, they hold a wealth of information.

Don't be cheap, if you go cheap, you'll pay for it. Simple as that.

Im kinda stuck on what i want to do. I like my supra but seems like a lot of money to swap and all. Should i swap the motor and trans? or just buy a turbo'd 5 speed and work from there?

Sticking to mine would mean fresh new engine. but Buying a turbo supra would mean i would rebuild turbo and engine. Which would be cheaper?

 

[supra_man87]

If i were you, id do a gte 5 speed swap. ive seen them go for like 1200 shipped sometimes on ebay. keep in mind, you will have to do a hg on that as well, so you dont run into more problems down the road.

when i did my hg, i got a normal felpro top end gasket set from checker auto parts for like 220. and the place i took my head to only charged me 60 to machine it. Head turned out great. i also changed the timing belt. a goodyear gatorback was like 15-20 bucks if i remember correctly. on top of that, add in oil and anti-freeze. MANDATORY.

the difference from stock bolts to arp studs is simple. the stock bolts tend to strech in time, so they become weaker. plus you should only torque head bolts to i believe 72ft/lbs where as head studs you can torque the head down to i believe 100ft/lbs.

as far as how to change a hg, andy's write up http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62881
helped me out alot. the only thing you might add in is removal of the turbo accessories due to andy's supra (the one in this write up) was a n/a.

i believe i have covered everything to the best of my knowledge. hope this helps.

 

[Jokervrs]

If i were you, id do a gte 5 speed swap. ive seen them go for like 1200 shipped sometimes on ebay. keep in mind, you will have to do a hg on that as well, so you dont run into more problems down the road.

when i did my hg, i got a normal felpro top end gasket set from checker auto parts for like 220. and the place i took my head to only charged me 60 to machine it. Head turned out great. i also changed the timing belt. a goodyear gatorback was like 15-20 bucks if i remember correctly. on top of that, add in oil and anti-freeze. MANDATORY.

the difference from stock bolts to arp studs is simple. the stock bolts tend to strech in time, so they become weaker. plus you should only torque head bolts to i believe 72ft/lbs where as head studs you can torque the head down to i believe 100ft/lbs.

as far as how to change a hg, andy's write up http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=62881
helped me out alot. the only thing you might add in is removal of the turbo accessories due to andy's supra (the one in this write up) was a n/a.

i believe i have covered everything to the best of my knowledge. hope this helps.

Couldnt have asked for a better response lol. Say i stick with my old motor for a bit so i can pull mor emoney together to go all out? Its a blown headgasket, so i need to have head machined, metal gasket replaced and i can stick with normal head bolts correct? just torque them down to 73. Oil, plugs, coolant need to be changed. Kinda lost on the concept of bringing your head to be machined. Is it the entire head like where your cams rest?

 

[CyFi6]

You need to be careful here... If your car was smoking out the tailpipe or shooting coolant out the overflow and that was it, i would say sure you can change the head gasket and a couple other necessary gaskets for very cheap, but you said your coolant looks like "mayo" or "milkshake" as they call it. That being said, chances are your motor is fucked either way without a full rebuild. Sorry to break it to you but before you go on any further take into consideration the great majority of people who get a BHG with coolant contamination in the oil very soon get a rod knock, after pouring hundreds into the BHG job. I recommend you stop driving the car and drive something else until you can afford to rebuild it or replace the engine. If you don't have another car, you're best off selling the supra and buying something else right now because it doesn't end at the BHG. Good luck with the mystery sealer, don't be too surprised if you have epic failure and your motor dies/overheats on you. Once your head gasket blows as bad as yours has i don't see how any kind of sealer is going to do anything but contaminate your oil with more harmful stuff.

 

[supra_man87]

+1

Couldnt have asked for a better response lol. Say i stick with my old motor for a bit so i can pull mor emoney together to go all out? Its a blown headgasket, so i need to have head machined, metal gasket replaced and i can stick with normal head bolts correct? just torque them down to 73. Oil, plugs, coolant need to be changed. Kinda lost on the concept of bringing your head to be machined. Is it the entire head like where your cams rest?

haha thanks alot man.

but if you are gonna keep on with this engine, dunno bout that sealer stuff. if it works it works. but ok. yes you need to get the head machined. the 7m head is aluminum. its a soft metal. under alot of overheating, metal warps. when you machine the head, you resurface the bottom of the head to where it will be a flat surface and will create a good seal to the block and head gasket.

you can get a metal headgasket, but depending on your plans with the engine, you can also go with a composite head gasket like a felpro. like want to keep this engine as a n/a, a felpro will be fine. but if you are going to bolt on a turbo and make it a n/a-t, a metal headgasket is recommended. same goes for if you do a head gasket on a 7m-gte. a metal head gasket is recommended.

same goes for the head bolts or arp studs. a n/a will be fine with stock head bolts, but if you turbo the n/a or do it to a 7m-gte, arp head bolts are recommended. again, this all depends on your plans on what you plan to do with the car. if you car gonna drive it like you stole it, or take it easy.

and here is a couple pictures of a head, so you know what it is.
look familiar? hope this helps

 

[iwannadie]

I had a mild BHG, exhaust and a small amount of oil was leaking into my coolant but no coolant in the oil. Heres my parts list, obviously not everything is needed(brake shim kit lol) but it wasn't cheap. Its been running for a few years now no problems with rod knock or anything else. Pays to do things right the first time.

Head Gasket job <$750.00
ARP moly assemble lube <$ 1.94
ARP head studs <$129.11
HKS head metal gasket <$98.01
OEM valve cover gaskets <$20.96
OEM water ourlet gasket <$2.59
OEM distributer gasket <$2.01
OEM exhaust manifold gasket <$32.02
OEM intake manifold gasket(head to manifold) <$16.33
OEM intake manifold gasket(lower & upper) <$9.23
OEM EGR gasket upper/lower <$4.16
OEM Throttle body gasket <$11.41
OEM Fuel injector lower insulators X6 <$14.04
OEM Brake front shim kit <$29.36
OEM Oil hose valve cover to block 12263-42010 <$36.50
rebuilt head <250$

 

[Jokervrs]

+1



haha thanks alot man.

but if you are gonna keep on with this engine, dunno bout that sealer stuff. if it works it works. but ok. yes you need to get the head machined. the 7m head is aluminum. its a soft metal. under alot of overheating, metal warps. when you machine the head, you resurface the bottom of the head to where it will be a flat surface and will create a good seal to the block and head gasket.

you can get a metal headgasket, but depending on your plans with the engine, you can also go with a composite head gasket like a felpro. like want to keep this engine as a n/a, a felpro will be fine. but if you are going to bolt on a turbo and make it a n/a-t, a metal headgasket is recommended. same goes for if you do a head gasket on a 7m-gte. a metal head gasket is recommended.

same goes for the head bolts or arp studs. a n/a will be fine with stock head bolts, but if you turbo the n/a or do it to a 7m-gte, arp head bolts are recommended. again, this all depends on your plans on what you plan to do with the car. if you car gonna drive it like you stole it, or take it easy.

and here is a couple pictures of a head, so you know what it is.
look familiar? hope this helps

ok i know exactly what your talking about. Say i buy a whole kit to replace the headgasket and i get the head machined and flush out the oil and coolant to get the contaminats out. Is that all that would need to be done to complete the job? I have milkshake in the oil so and also got some on the spark plugs. So if i clean out the oil really good would there still be a big problem with contaminants?

You need to be careful here... If your car was smoking out the tailpipe or shooting coolant out the overflow and that was it, i would say sure you can change the head gasket and a couple other necessary gaskets for very cheap, but you said your coolant looks like "mayo" or "milkshake" as they call it. That being said, chances are your motor is fucked either way without a full rebuild. Sorry to break it to you but before you go on any further take into consideration the great majority of people who get a BHG with coolant contamination in the oil very soon get a rod knock, after pouring hundreds into the BHG job. I recommend you stop driving the car and drive something else until you can afford to rebuild it or replace the engine. If you don't have another car, you're best off selling the supra and buying something else right now because it doesn't end at the BHG. Good luck with the mystery sealer, don't be too surprised if you have epic failure and your motor dies/overheats on you. Once your head gasket blows as bad as yours has i don't see how any kind of sealer is going to do anything but contaminate your oil with more harmful stuff.

Ok, so say i do a full rebuild. Alsoo, ive been looking into engines at Tigerjapanese.com and they have a 7mge for just under 500 dollars and like 250 for shipping. Has about 25000 miles on it.

price for rebuild and price for swap at a shop would be greatly appreciated.

 

[supra_man87]

thats pretty much all i did. but from than on, its just routine maintenance. check hoses, stripped bolts, especially exhaust bolts. but yeah also good idea to change cap and rotor, wires, misc hoses, better clamps, (every person i know hates the toyota stock clamps),silicon vacuum lines, if your starter is going, its easy to change with the head off too. other people chime in. just depends on what your plans are with that engine.

i would recommend a whole head gasket set. the only thing the gasket set does not include is; oil pan gasket, waterpump gasket, and i believe front and rear seals. i believe thats is it. i still have the box everything came in, which has the list of its contains.

OEM distributer gasket <$2.01

We have a distributor gasket???? i dont see it on here. http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/EPC/291210/catalog.aspx?F=1103&P=1

 

[dmon]

if your tight on money, find a used motor and swap it in. I think that will be the cheapest way possible. so far i spend almost 700 bucks on parts, and the engine is still in pieces lol.

someone building a motor for you wont be cheap. if anything, change the hg kit,arp hsk, and swap that bugger in.

 

[iwannadie]

if your tight on money, find a used motor and swap it in. I think that will be the cheapest way possible. so far i spend almost 700 bucks on parts, and the engine is still in pieces lol.

someone building a motor for you wont be cheap. if anything, change the hg kit,arp hsk, and swap that bugger in.

Swapping in a used motor not knowing the history can be worse off than what he has already. It would suck to buy a motor and find out its just as bad off as what he has got then pay to rebuild that.

Buying a used motor and doing just the BHG job to me doesn't make much sense, might as well do that with the motor you got. If money is tight band-aid the original motor as much as you can. Do the BHG job with decent parts and hope the bottom end runs, which chances are it should. Buy a used motor and have the bottom end rebuilt then pass over all the top end new parts from the old bhg repaired motor. Sell off what ever parts are left over from the 2 and be done with it.

 

[CyFi6]

Pull the engine, inspect the bottom end/bearings, replace all the bearings with new Toyota bearings, change the head gasket with motor out of the car, you can get by for cheap, but that is considering your bottom end doesnt have any problems. If your crank has issues etc then you are going to have to go into a full rebuild.

 

[Jokervrs]

Pull the engine, inspect the bottom end/bearings, replace all the bearings with new Toyota bearings, change the head gasket with motor out of the car, you can get by for cheap, but that is considering your bottom end doesnt have any problems. If your crank has issues etc then you are going to have to go into a full rebuild.

Found a site that has a graphite head gasket kit with arp studbolts, if i have the head resurfaced, head gasket installed and i do a couple oil changes to get out the gunk is there still a big chance of rod knock from contamination?

also what are the chances of a cracked head? and a solution if it is cracked.

 

[CyFi6]

Chances of rod knock are still high, the damage to your bearings is already done. If you have a cracked head it goes in the trash

 

[Jokervrs]

Chances of rod knock are still high, the damage to your bearings is already done. If you have a cracked head it goes in the trash

Chance of it being cracked? how could you crack it anyways?