block machining question

[7M4EVR]

This is the first engine i have had bottom end off of and thr engine is finally out and on the stand and when I took the pan off noticed some brass colored flakes by the magnet. I will be pulling the caps off to check the crank tonight and was wondering if you guys have a good way of keeping all the rod and main bearings in order for each cylinder?

Also when I purchase new bearings are they going to be marked somehow so I know which ones to put where? Sorry I'm new to this. And one more thing if the crank looks good and that's a big if, is there a way to polish it up by myself without getting it turned? Same with my cylinder walls, they look fine but have a small ridge at the top of the cylinder wall where the piston stops from normal wear. Is it best to leave this ridge alone if I'm not getting new pistons?

Thanks guys!

 

[Suprapowaz!(2)]

Zip lock bags and a marker to keep things in order. Sorry, can't give you good advice on the rest. I had my machine shop do all of the shortblock work.

 

[jake8790]

I put all the bearings and caps in a box in order and labeled them. The main caps already have numbers and directional arrows on them. The bearings aren't marked, they are all the same except the number 1 main bearing is larger iirc. I would recommend taking the crank to a machine shop to be mic'd and polished, it shouldn't cost much. I would also recommend taking the block to a machine shop to have the deck surfaced and bores checked.

 

[7M4EVR]

I hear ya jake , I might just end up doing that. I know better than to cut corners, problem is I just put $3000 into parts and still have more to get and if I spend much more the wife will castrate me lol. So just trying to get feedback on what I can get away with doing myself. Although I'm sure it just depends on what everything looks like.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

The tolerances on the crank are tiny. I wouldn't polish it myself. It's cheap enough,a nd you'll have the block into a machine shop anyway, so just get it done. Get the block magnafluxed first. Some people have still had issues come up after, but it SHOULD catch any issues that you didn't spot first.

New bearings will be easy to tell what goes where. Your machine shop will tell you what you need to get.

 

[7M4EVR]

Well seems like the consensus is just take the damn thing to the machine shop...what do u guys think a safe estimate will be to do all of that? I know it varies but roughly?

 

[hvyman]

just call a trusted machine shop. Depends on what all you get done.

 

[Grandavi]

^^ agreed.

However.. "trusted" aint easy. I called and emailed and talked to people for over 2 full days (ignoring work to do it.. lol) trying to zero in on a place I could use. This forum has a lot of excellent people who helped me find my direction... dont use them if you dont feel right about it.
The machine shop is probably going to be the most critical decision you make on your car.. lol.

 

[jake8790]

For me it was $305 for:
Crank mic and polish
Rods checked and new wrist pin bushings
Block overbored and honed
Deck surfaced
Everything hot tanked

 

[supraguy@aol]

Damn. Thats a good price.

Mine is:
Block checked and tanked
Linebore mains
Overbore and hone cylinders
Deck
Check and polish crank
Balance crank
Size rods
~ $1400. This will include all bearings, and arp mains.

 

[ttsupra2503]

I have 2 blocks and 2 heads at the machine shop to make one good motor out of. The guy quoted me 200 bucks to deck the block and head, 50 bucks to hone the cylinders, he will check the pistons, crank, and valves and show me if I need any work done to those. To polish the crank will be 50-100 dollars depending on the shop and how much they have to do to it. Keep in mind that you want to get them to tell you what main bearing size to get and you definitely dont want to buy the wrong items. You will want to hone the cylinders but make sure they measure it first and they will be able to tell you if you need new pistons to match up to the new bore size. You can get away without honing if there is no scaring or major marks in the cylinders but you will have to get this fixed later anyways once you start pushing harder. The ridge is basically what your cylinder used to be before your piston rings wore it down. I am pretty tired right now so forgive me if I made a mistake in this reply..... damn school always takes up so much time.

 

[7M4EVR]

Well guys looks like I don't have a choice...as I expected. Spun rod bearing on #3 that thing was razor thin ,very close to doing some major damage boy am I lucky. The crank has some scoring so its gonna have to be taken in.

I didn't take the main caps off yet because I didn't want the crank to be loose enough to where I wouldn't have resistance to get the pulley off the front...how does the crank come out on these? Do I get the pulley off then do the main caps and pull it back then out? That's wat it looks like to me at this point. Anyway here's a pic taken from my phone, hope it shows up.

 

[Dan_Gyoba]

TSRM Page EM-68

Remove the rear oil seal retainer, remove the oil pump driveshaft, remove the lower timing cover (The one that gets decked with the block), remove the oil pump, then remove the mains, and the crankshaft lifts out. Don't remove the main caps until the last step. Good call on that.

 

[IJ.]

Well guys looks like I don't have a choice...as I expected. Spun rod bearing on #3 that thing was razor thin ,very close to doing some major damage boy am I lucky. The crank has some scoring so its gonna have to be taken in.

I didn't take the main caps off yet because I didn't want the crank to be loose enough to where I wouldn't have resistance to get the pulley off the front...how does the crank come out on these? Do I get the pulley off then do the main caps and pull it back then out? That's wat it looks like to me at this point. Anyway here's a pic taken from my phone, hope it shows up.

BIG Block of wood between the crank and the side of the block and a big breaker bar, maybe a cheater pipe on that as the Damper Bolt "Should" be done up to 195 ft/lbs.

If doing it on an engine stand have a Helper handy so you don't roll it.

 

[supraguy@aol]

^ this.
A block of wood is a great tool.

 

[jake8790]

^ yes. I would recommend pulling up on the breaker bar instead of pushing down. Have a helper holding the block down. when I tried to torque downwards it felt like the engine stand was going to collapse.

 

[7M4EVR]

Thanks guys that's what I'll do...so any tips on what to ask of my machinist? I know I want the block boiled and crank turned but do you guys have anything else I should have him beware of or ask him about? Is boiling my block going to affect my oil squirters etc. etc.?

 

[IJ.]

Pull the squirters, I'd replace the bolts/valves anyway, Make sure if it's to be bored/honed you take the timing case cam tensioner and bolt and have it torqued to 35 ft/lbs as it distorts #1.

Are you planning on replacing the AUX shaft bearings?

 

[7M4EVR]

Good info. To be honest i'm on my phone and don't have the time to see exactly what u mean on the TSRM right now but is the AUX shaft the one that runs underneath the crank and drives the oil pump gears and such?

 

[IJ.]

^ this.
A block of wood is a great tool.

I'm WoodPhobic, this is about the only use I succeed at with it as a material

Good info. To be honest i'm on my phone and don't have the time to see exactly what u mean on the TSRM right now but is the AUX shaft the one that runs underneath the crank and drives the oil pump gears and such?

Yep that's the one, if they hot tank the engine it trashes the bearings, a LOT of people have had troubles replacing them over the years here..