Honestly the head looks fine for a MHG, the block WOULD be fine if they cute more and didn't leave all that pitting...
Block coming from Machine SHop... PICS
- Thread starter sylquebec
- Start date
There's no way to perform proper machine work on an assembled long block.
Take it somewhere else, have it torn down and redone completely, by someone who understands what RA is...
I wouldn't trust anything done by a shop that described that deck as "really smooth"...
Take it somewhere else, have it torn down and redone completely, by someone who understands what RA is...
I wouldn't trust anything done by a shop that described that deck as "really smooth"...
http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll208/sylquebec/P1030238.jpg
I don't think those ridges are ok for the head gasket. Stock yes, MHG no. That is from the cutting wheel being pulled across too fast, and is probably adjustable. Speed wise. If our resident machinist/engine builder extrodinaire says ok, then ok.
I don't think those ridges are ok for the head gasket. Stock yes, MHG no. That is from the cutting wheel being pulled across too fast, and is probably adjustable. Speed wise. If our resident machinist/engine builder extrodinaire says ok, then ok.
Nick M;1585578 said:
It's marginal. It might seal, it might not. Personally I wouldn't use any of it in its current condition...
Well, I'll ask this, can you catch your fingernail on the ridges? Seen ridges show up in photos and not be actual roughness on the surface.
Regardless, anything that shop did is in question now...
Regardless, anything that shop did is in question now...
I think at a minimum(if it's not done already- you need to remove the cams so that all valves seat.
As for the block- like poodles said, those coolant passages look terrible. I honestly don't even know if you can take enough material off to re-establish the normal boundaries of the passages. That's not the shop's fault, though, it's just from the corrosion. The shop should have inspected and advised you first, though. I say- grab another block. You can usually pick up a bare unit for $100-$200.
As for the block- like poodles said, those coolant passages look terrible. I honestly don't even know if you can take enough material off to re-establish the normal boundaries of the passages. That's not the shop's fault, though, it's just from the corrosion. The shop should have inspected and advised you first, though. I say- grab another block. You can usually pick up a bare unit for $100-$200.
supraguy@aol;1585797 said:
...I'm angry right now, really angry. That was the second block i bring to them. THey tell me the first one was junk because it was crack on a bolt hole. So i bring them an other block i bought and they tell me it was in great shape. I will need to look how much materiel was removed. They write on the bill : 7.810 but i need to double check this.
Try to get your money back and under no circumstance let these people touch anything more complicated than a piece of 2x4 lumber in the future.