BHG questions

[AZSupraMan]

Here it goes.. I am going to try to do this without looking like an idiot.

I have been searching and finding so much info on the whole headgasket issue.The difference of opinion is widespread and has left me a little uncertain. I am sure the HG has issues. It seems as if it isn't worth trying to save the current HG even if it is temporary fix while I collect the parts for the new HG (metal of course, already learned that lesson!).


It has a 11k on the complete rebuild top and bottom from a shop in phoenix.

Conditions:

1. car starts right up.
2. runs like normal for a few minutes till things warm up then normal BHG stuff (ie syrup white smoke.
3. The car was not driven at all, and barely started after it overheated.I know the person I bought the car from. The car blew the coolant hose off the back of head (EGR plate?) overheated, and was parked.

Questions..


1. Is a re torque worth it, because I know the shop that it went to and they are not Supra saavy and almost assuredly torqued the bolts to stock levels (52lb ft iirc)

2. When I do the head job (which I have done in and out of the car b4 both suck!!) what is the general concessus, motor in or out of the car? I know I had probs with the firewall seam hitting the head trying to get it over the studs maybe there is a trick jacking the motor forward etc?

3. I have a set of ARP used studs, but 2 of them were a pita to get out (lots o stress) do you think they are still good? or should I just ante up and buy the new studs? I know Titan used to have a deal on the gasket studs and timing belt..

I am sure I am missing pertinent info but am experiencing some vapor lock in the brain since it has been quite a while..

Scott

 

[IwantMKIII]

1. no
2. Out of car IMO
3. You'd need to measure them. Search for proper lenghts.

 

[AZSupraMan]

1. no
2. Out of car IMO
3. You'd need to measure them. Search for proper lenghts.

1. I thought so


2. In reference to #2 out of car seemed to be the best way to work on these engines, but the removal and reinstallation is a pain. I always did it with the tranny attached.

Is it easier to remove the tranny, and is there are easier way to pull the motor? I have done it 3x. It did get easier, but still took several days to reinstall..






3. They are all the exact same length, and they were only in the car for 1 week. It seemed like I didn't clean out the block stud holes the first time good enough.


Scott

 

[IwantMKIII]

^if they were only used once they should be fine. If you want to be cautious grab a vernier caliper and measure, you won't be able to notice a stretched bolt with a standard ruler.

Engine removal is a pain on a stock engine, my engine isn't so bad. Ultimately its your preference. If you can work in tight spaces keep the engine in, just unbolt the mounts for whne you take off and reinstall the head for firewall clearance

 

[jetjock]

Lmao. Put the head on first and then put the studs in...

 

[AZSupraMan]

Lmao. Put the head on first and then put the studs in...

Its ok to laugh.. And yes I understand/respect your experience and knowledge, but everwhere you read, it says to install the studs finger tight into the block first does it not? Its kind of hard to accurately judge finger tight when the head is on. 10 years in the Navy tells me to follow directions, and thats how I read it.. I just want to make sure I am not sliding my head around that I just spent good money to get a low RA count on top of my expensive metal headgasket. Besides, I have another lower mileage motor that I am considering rebuilding, but then it turns into "well if I do this I might as well do that.

My own experience with these cars is to keep to the standard and make sure that everthing I come across is exactly as it should be. I strive for that standard each and every time I do something with these cars.

Thanks..

 

[jetjock]

It was directed at the mount suggestion but, while I appreciate how the Navy does things, it's often better to think than follow rote procedures. After all, anyone can be a rote monkey. You can put the studs in just as tight with the head on. Assuming you chased the holes beforehand it's not a problem. Most people tighten them a bit more than finger tight anyway, one reason they have hex sockets on top. It won't hurt a thing. And assuming the locater dowels are in the block the head won't slide around when lowered onto it.

 

[cuel]

As long as the threads in the block have been thoroughly cleaned, and all of the bolt holes in the head are clean and clear of debris, I don't see what the difference would be installing them with the head on or off.

I did find this: http://www.arp-bolts.com/Catalog/Catalog.html

In the stud versus bolt discussion, it says studs are used to insure easy alignment of the head when it is going to be removed and replaced frequently, such as in racing applications. Thus the reason they have them installed without the head on. It doesn't say that you must install the studs first, only that they need to be installed in a "relaxed position," or finger tight, to ensure that it only stretches on its vertical axis. They don't want you to twist the stud by torquing it into the block with jammed nuts. There's actually a lot of good info. in their "tech info." section on how to correctly torque bolts and studs, and the different ways to go about it.

 

[figgie]

and too add

if the engine is in the car... you will NOT get the head on with the studs in place without a nice big sledge hammer to the firewall!

 

[jetjock]

Some further info from this month's Motor Mag:

http://tinyurl.com/5y26rr

 

[suprarx7nut]

Some further info from this month's Motor Mag:

http://tinyurl.com/5y26rr

Great reading, JJ. Thanks.


Hehe, he said "double nut" a few times in that article.

 

[AZSupraMan]

Some further info from this month's Motor Mag:

http://tinyurl.com/5y26rr

Thats a great article! I am going to pull the motor anyways, and go through it. I met some folks who have experience out here in Phoenix, and I like to pull these motors with someone who knows. pulling it always seems to be the best bet, and I always try to get away with not pulling it..

 

[jetjock]

Motor Magazine is a good resource for both pro and amateur alike. It's mainly geared towards repair but the back articles to 1996 alone make the site worth browsing.

 

[figgie]

I have been catching myself reading lots of the America engine magazines for tid bits on engine builds. Like the one thing of degreeing cams, a art that is just about lost in the new gen but it is sooooo helpful.

 

[IJ.]

I have been catching myself reading lots of the America engine magazines for tid bits on engine builds. Like the one thing of degreeing cams, a art that is just about lost in the new gen but it is sooooo helpful.

Right up there with gapping rings installing freeze plugs correctly and clearencing bearings