BHG/ idle cool/ high speed over heat

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
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Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
Tell the mechanic that you *absolutely require* that he torque the headbolts to 72 foot pounds, and damn the specs in the manual.

Sorry to hear about being single, that shit is always hard to deal with.
 

SupraMario

I think it was the google
Mar 30, 2005
3,467
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38
The Farm
hey where u live at? im in Dickson and i have a 2 car garage and me and my dad are building another 2 car garage. i'll be doing my 2jz swap in one of them and my dad is going to fully restore his 56 buick. wish i would have caught this thread earlier.
well drop me a PM if you ever need a garage, though i dont know how far u are from me.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
I'm in Greenback. Just west of Maryville. Not sure how far that is from you though. Thank you for the offer. It shows alot :)

I told the mechanic that it must have new arp bolts, and be torqued per spec to the sheet the head bolts come with. Not toyotas spec. If he has any questions to contact me right away. Hes the mechanic. I told him " its my car". So he understands exactly what I mean. I got his shop off of a referal from a co-worker. Hope like hell it was the right decision.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
Well its Sunday the 7th. He called Wed and said he had it back together but it was still idling at 3/4 temp. So I told him to go ahead and check the radiator and the heater core. He called again Friday when I wasnt home and said on the machine it is done. So I will be picking it up later this week. Dont know the total on the cost of it yet. But its less then 800 I know that for a fact. That is having all head work done and new plugs and wires as well. I'll post back when I've picked it up. If he done a good job on it I will post his info on here for everyone. He's kinda back woodsy but hes a good guy.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
Well its done. No more overheating. No more spewing blood out of hoses. The total cost:
Plugs/wires
Head rework
gasket
arp head bolts
labor

totoal: $943.20
I do not have the car back yet. I dont have that kind of cash to drop in an instant plus new job, school, kids. It all stacks up. So it will be 3 weeks before I can get it back. So wish me luck. I'll post back on how its running and whether or not I recommend him. Hell, the price is cheaper than what I paid for having a bhg on my 83 celica/supra 7 years ago! Kinda suprised me. What do you guys think?
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
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38
56
Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
Sounds damn cheap to me. I just spent $800 getting my head worked on, the only parts involved were new valve seals. The headbolts, gasket, plugs and wires would put you well over your total, and you haven't figured in any labor yet.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
Ouch Grim. I figured this guy was worth a try. Just to see. I've heard a lot of good things about him. Plus sometimes it depends on location. He gets a lot of business by word of mouth so that tells me a lot.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
$984.00 total cost of the work done.
Head work done.
New stock head gasket and bolts.
Plugs and wires.
BONUS ROUND!
Running the fuel tank vent line to the vsv.
Jerry rigging the a/c fan to run with the ignition on.
Battery being dead when picked up the car.
Heater no longer changes over to heat.
Last but not least.. realizing that the cruise control no longer works...
PRICELESS.
Actually not priceless. Pissed me off. Now I have to completely rerun all of my vacuum lines and check my fuses and replace my radiator. So that was a $984 lesson on who not to use as a mechanic.

Now I have a couple questions.
1) Where does the vacuum line off the cruise control run to? It doesnt show that on the diagram online.
2) Is the heater actuated by a vacuum line? I noticed that a vacuum line runs to a vavle on the firewall that the water lines on the back of the block (and one on the side) run to before they run to the heater core.

The name of the shop NOT to use is Precission auto in Maryville, TN. Just to let those near me know about him. PLUS a big, well to me it is, huge dent in my hood. It is still overheating on top end. 75 mph plus will cause it to go more then 3/4 heat. After replacing everything under the hood except the radiator. Guess what.. that is next. I found a place near by (Knoxville) that sells new factory replacement radiators for $130 pickup. They also offer delivery. Which would only cost me another $15. Not bad I say. Thier site is www.radiator.com
They have 4 techs online and on the phones at all times. Which is cool.
Hope you guys can help me with the questions above. Its getting to be a little cooler here and the kids need the heater. Especailly the woman who complains about being cold when its 93 out side... lol..
 

GrimJack

Administrator
Dec 31, 1969
12,377
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56
Richmond, BC, Canada
idriders.com
Not sure if this will help, but here we go anyhow:
engine1.jpg


engine2.jpg


engine3.jpg


Heater control is actuated by a vacuum line, it's on the passenger side, mounted on the firewall, with coolant hoses connected to both ends.

The other thing that regularly foils the cruise control is the safety switch on the clutch pedal getting out of adjustment - the cruise thinks the clutch is in and disengages the cruise. Does your cruise light come on at all? Does it flash?
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
Wow thanks for the pics Grim.
The cruise control light only flashes when at a stop light. If I hold it down. I'll check the switch this weekend. As for the vacuum lines. I'll take the pics you put up and use them as a ref. Thanks again for those.
Wish I could have someone here with me so I would have a face to face car to deal with..lol. But that is cool. Those pics do help. I'll download them and blow them up.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
80
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52
Greenback, TN.
Ok Grim. I tried. But now I am going nuts. Hes got hoses hanging everywhere. Some are just looped around to themselves in a different area.. I'm about to pull my hair out. I tried blowing your pictures up, but, to no evale I noticed yours is a turbo. Completely different layout. Mine is N/A 86.5. I've browsed links on the forums but I cant find one single layout for an N/A supra. They are all turbo. I made a post in one of those areas so I hope they reply. It late here and I dont have good lighting to look further under the hood. I will get it worked out. One way or the other. If all else fails I'll just cap them all and work from there until it runs smooth and both my heater and my cruise control work. It's worth a shot. But I just wanted to keep it as stock as possible. Plus come to find out I found a vsv hanging in mid air. My bar running from the motor mount to the intake isnt even connected. God knows what else I will find the deeper I dive in. He really screwed me over.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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Greenback, TN.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3211
OK. I'm to that now. The post shows the diagram for my vacuum lines and how they are ran on my supra. The only other thing I need to know is where to patch in my lines for the heater and the cruise control. The help is much appreciated guys and gals. It's great to have all this info on here. I looked on the tsrm and I found the diagram for the CC and the heater, but it doesnt show where to patch them in. Or can I just plug them anywhere there is positive pressure?
I ordered a new radiator from radiator.com. They shipped it out via Fedex and will be here Tuesday. Only cost me $146 dollars shipped. Not bad I think.
 

Oper8or

New Member
Apr 21, 2005
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52
Greenback, TN.
Heck yeah! Thanks guys for helping me through this. I got the intake tore off, new injector seals are in. Vacuum lines are ran the way they are supposed to be. She purs like a kitten. Heater works and so does the cruise control. I kicked myself for not doing the work in the first place. It feels good to know I can do the work.
One question. What would happen if I ran the fuel vent to the first vacuum opening on the intake? Since I took out the charcoal canister and got rid of the lines running from the thermostat (vacuum lines) it left an open slot on the intake. I was wondering if I ran the fuel vent line to it if it would hurt anything. Dont think it would, but its better to ask.

Thank you all for putting up with my ignorance. :)