I recently replaced my TPS and adjusted according to TSRM, and it seems to have worked because I haven't gotten any codes yet. But my 86.5 NA jerks when you let off the throttle pretty bad as well, is there any other way to make sure the TPS is adjusted right?
Best Way to Adjust TPS
- Thread starter suprabad
- Start date
The TPS won't set off the check engine light, but it is stored in the ECU. Check your codes to see if you get the TPS code.
Check to make sure all the resistances are as per the TSRM, if they are, and you've got no codes, the TPS should be set correctly.
Check to make sure all the resistances are as per the TSRM, if they are, and you've got no codes, the TPS should be set correctly.
Those who are getting jerky motors when they set it per TSRM. Are you checking it at all the specified gaps with a feeler guage or just going off of the idle/closed throttle point?
Yeah I should have mentioned that, are you guys using the correct feeler gauges? That would cause some problems if you weren't.
shaeff said:why dont you just get super small female spade connectors, and make jumpers to go from your ohm meters to the TPS? its much easier that wayyou can easily hold the TPS/TB, and watch the ohm meter without anything slipping off
-shaeff
IMHO this is the best advice. I finally got mine right...atleast it seems right and the resistence values are all within spec. No more jerky throttle response.
I know there is no way I could have gotten it right trying to hold the two little pointers and turn the TPS and look at the gauge. Way too hard!
I made couple of jumpers like shaef suggeted with female connectors that fit the TPS and that totally made the difference and turned a nightmare into a managable task. After days of screwing with it I got it done in 15 mins.
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suprabad said:
To everyone trying to adjust their TPS and ending up with this jerkiness problem - I suspect your TPS, though within spec, is not working 100% properly. However, there is a way to get around this without getting a new TPS. It requires some fiddling but basically, adjust it to base TSRM specs first like everyone here has explained; .7mm feeler between stop screw and throttle linkage, turn the tsrm until you get continuity then turn it the other way and stop exactly at the point when continuity is lost (this is what they mean by deflect, on an older analog meter the needle would "deflect" or rapidly move to a very high resistance; hence, no continuity). Tighten down the TPS but leave the bottom screw somewhat loose. Now go for a drive and if its jerky: stop, loosen the top screw and move it a little counterclockwise, retighten the top screw. Go for another drive.
Your goal is to have the ability to maintain a constant speed with slight pressure on the throttle. If not adjusted properly you'll always be either accelerating or decellerating, it will be impossible to find that happy medium where the car will maintain a constant speed. When throttle is released you should have a smooth exhaust note during decelleration -- this means the computer is getting a proper reading from the TPS and cutting off fuel. If you get the gurgling/backfiring sound the TPS is not giving the computer a proper reading, fuel is not being cut out and you have that sputtering effect because fuel is still being ignited during decell.
I just went through all this while adjusting my TPS that I bought used from a forum member and though it gives good readings and doesn't throw a code like my old one, its still not 100% working so I had to use this method to get the car driving right. I will report back with my results of a brand new TPS I ordered from Champion for $75 and wether or not the TSRM settings work right off the bat!
Hope that helps and feel free to ask if anything I wrote needs clarification.
I'm having the same problem,only I took off the ISV and cleaned it,the car ran fine for a few days,and now it's idling around 500 rpm,I'll check the TPS tomorrow
I've read it is impossible to set the timing without a properly adjusted TPS, it will just give you code 51. So whenever I jump the TE1 and E1 connectors to adjust the timing, it never drops down to base timing, it would only throw back code 51. So what I did was adjust the TPS by hand until the computer wouldnt throw a code, and then of course the timing would jump back to base timing. I would now assume that the TPS is set correctly. But now when i check it per TSRM, the continuities are incorrect, any thoughts on this?
I have a question I'd like to add to this thread... I checked my TPS per the TSRM and most the ohm readings were outside of tolerance, so I took off the throttle body to fix. With it gaped .7mm, I can turn the TPS completely clockwise and it never looses continuity... the highest it goes is 5.8 or so. Furthermore, I can not adjust the TPS to be in tolerance for any of the continuity checks with the exception of the zero gap.
I figured it was busted so I bought a new one; however, when attempting to adjust it, it does the exact same thing.
The feeler gauge I have doesn't have feelers with the exact thickness as required in the TSRM, so I have to add a couple together.. is that what y'all do or can you buy a set that has the correct thickness?
Could there be something wrong with the throttle body?
I figured it was busted so I bought a new one; however, when attempting to adjust it, it does the exact same thing.
The feeler gauge I have doesn't have feelers with the exact thickness as required in the TSRM, so I have to add a couple together.. is that what y'all do or can you buy a set that has the correct thickness?
Could there be something wrong with the throttle body?
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Jonnymkiii said:
Sounds like every symptom of a bad TPS... $75 from jay marks will buy you peace of mind!
:icon_conf D'oh, I left out an important detail... I meant to say I bought a new one, and it measured with the same results.
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Jonnymkiii said:
I have the same problem. Do they make feeler gauges the proper size TSRM calls for?
?
the most my set was off was like .002 and I got mine to work fine with the closest size. I have a craftsman kit of feelers and spark plug gappers.
Just finished calibrating my buddies TPS this weekend. It's easiest to do it with an Old School multi-meter that has a needle, but it can be done with a newer style digital one.
From Arlene Lanman on the SOGi List:
Also from the SOGi List:
From Arlene Lanman on the SOGi List:
Also from the SOGi List:
suprabad said:
I doubt anyone makes a readily available feeler gauge in the exact thicknesses the TSRM calls for. I always use 2 or 3 or whatever I need, they should be clean, and should make the exact thickness needed.
Feelers can be stacked to add up to the thickness you need. However, make sure they are clean. Any dirt, oil, or other type of spooge between the layers will make it thicker than you expect.