Battery ?
- Thread starter Emik87t
- Start date
Well it's been about 3 weeks this time. I've been putting off changing the oil beings I hate taking off the damn filter, and I have quite a few mods. Just put in the aem ems with UEGO and I still have my apexi turbo timer as far as electronics go. My battery is about a year and a half old and my dad has a 91 with the same problem. He bought a battery 3 months ago, didn't drive it for like a month, and now his batteries dead too.
Meh. Leave the speculation out of this.
Get a multimeter and test the current draw when the ignition is OFF.
Disconnect your positive or negative terminal and put the multimeter inline with the battery. Measure the current being drawn.
I believe Toyota says .08 amps is acceptable. Personally I've never seen a vehicle draw more than .03
Get a multimeter and test the current draw when the ignition is OFF.
Disconnect your positive or negative terminal and put the multimeter inline with the battery. Measure the current being drawn.
I believe Toyota says .08 amps is acceptable. Personally I've never seen a vehicle draw more than .03
^^Make sure the multimeter is fused!!!
Quick way to kill a multimeter if it draws too much through it...
Quick way to kill a multimeter if it draws too much through it...
.08 is too high. 50 milliamps is too much.
Batteries are perishable. You can't expect it to sit, although 3 weeks isn't long. Consider the batteries you are buying after you check for a parasitic draw.
Batteries are perishable. You can't expect it to sit, although 3 weeks isn't long. Consider the batteries you are buying after you check for a parasitic draw.
Poodles;1122358 said:
Indeed.
Honestly though if you're pulling enough current to pop a fuse/kill a meter you have some serious problems
I believe both my Flukes are fused at 10A
Nick M;1122363 said:
That's always what I've thought but I remember reading in a Toyota document that the acceptable range was somewhere around .08
I've seen people pop cheap multimeters because they opened the door and the lights inside came on and drew too much for the meter...
My car has sat for months and months and the battery was still enough to start the car (barely that that point). What kind of battery are you running?
My car has sat for months and months and the battery was still enough to start the car (barely that that point). What kind of battery are you running?
A better question is how old is your battery.
Battery quality is really crummy as of late. I have been taking in so many returns on batteries, especially optimas made form last year to current.
Battery quality is really crummy as of late. I have been taking in so many returns on batteries, especially optimas made form last year to current.
my optima's been fine :dunno:
I won't run conventional liquid acid batteries ever again, if you even have one leak the damage it does is nuts.
I won't run conventional liquid acid batteries ever again, if you even have one leak the damage it does is nuts.
the positive cable on mine is corroded and broke and running off wal mart batt. so thats my dead batt deal.. if I was you and your not going to drive it much, unplug the batt also do as the others say and see what kinda readings you get when its off.
probably got crusty wires somewhere.
I'd fix my problem but moneys not in my pocket right now and I want to relocate to the rear with some welding cable.
probably got crusty wires somewhere.
I'd fix my problem but moneys not in my pocket right now and I want to relocate to the rear with some welding cable.
Dunno why everyone wants to relocate the battery... Can't go to the strip, potentially toxic gasses, overall hassle to do... The weight shift isn't enough to justify it IMHO...
Poodles;1122828 said:
There are quite a few mods that aren't actually justified on this car.
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I agree, but the usual justification is "racing" when you'd never pass tech with most of the relocations I see...
I'm relocating mine to the spare tire well so I can fit a FFIM. Vent thru wellPoodles;1123053 said:
drain, external kill switch @ rear license plate, inside kill switch where the
TEMS controller used to be. I have an Optima now, new in Jan. '08 and
presently suspect. Thinking of trying a CF 21lb. Braile and using a trickle
charger when the car sits. Any thoughts on the choice of a Braile?