what all do i need for battery relocation? i know i need some 4g wire and a battery box but do i need any relays or fuses?
thanks guys
thanks guys
battery relocation question
- Thread starter lppro
- Start date
Battery cut off switch that is within a foot of the battery.
That battery box has to be sealed AND vented to the outside. Besides that, IF you run the cable to the alternator and the fuse distribution box up front. No.
That battery box has to be sealed AND vented to the outside. Besides that, IF you run the cable to the alternator and the fuse distribution box up front. No.
DON'T use the chassis as a ground path......
Before the resident experts jump up and down saying "I did it and it works fine" It's NOT the correct way to do it and the only reason they get away with it is the low comp 3.0L engine.
Before the resident experts jump up and down saying "I did it and it works fine" It's NOT the correct way to do it and the only reason they get away with it is the low comp 3.0L engine.
IJ.;943487 said:
Agreed
the chassis especially after all this time is a terrible electrical path.
Run a HUGE ground cable to the front (2 guage or even 1/0) and then branch it off via ground distribution blocks to the engine.
It's just basics...
The Chassis is a terrible path considering it's spot welded together with seam sealer or corrosion between every joint anolng the way.
"Good" cable has many fine strands and this is how it can carry much more current than cheap wire of the same physical size.
The Chassis is a terrible path considering it's spot welded together with seam sealer or corrosion between every joint anolng the way.
"Good" cable has many fine strands and this is how it can carry much more current than cheap wire of the same physical size.
AF1JZ;943546 said:
The battery?
Anywhere in the trunk.
As for the engine, Run a physcial wire to the engine for ground.
I'm glad this topic popped back up because Ive been frying my brain over it for a while now. I know this whole subject has been thoroughly beat to death on this forum but ever since this thread got locked up I have been trying to figure out this riddle:
The problem was trying to figure out the best way to shut down all electrical function of the vehicle by flipping the switch at the rear of the car per NHRA rules. By disconnecting the battery the engine will continue to run on the alternator (not to mention causing other problems.) I dont want to have to run a large alternator cable back to the disconnect as this seems like a waste.
I have thought it through and the best solution I can come up with would be to run the field wire off the alternator back to the switch. But then you would have full time power to the field input of the internal IC regulator, where the stock system has ignition power only. I can think of other ways to do it with more wiring but there seems to be an easier way...
jetjock said:
The problem was trying to figure out the best way to shut down all electrical function of the vehicle by flipping the switch at the rear of the car per NHRA rules. By disconnecting the battery the engine will continue to run on the alternator (not to mention causing other problems.) I dont want to have to run a large alternator cable back to the disconnect as this seems like a waste.
I have thought it through and the best solution I can come up with would be to run the field wire off the alternator back to the switch. But then you would have full time power to the field input of the internal IC regulator, where the stock system has ignition power only. I can think of other ways to do it with more wiring but there seems to be an easier way...
install battery in rear
install kill switch (preferably mount it on the outside of the car, by the license plate like most mustangs have)
run the same gauge ground as you do hot (don't put a bigger cable in one or the other positions, use the EXACT same size wire)
viola </how to>
(as for the how to if you actually need one on how to run two power wires, you may want to consider getting assistance from a mechanic)
install kill switch (preferably mount it on the outside of the car, by the license plate like most mustangs have)
run the same gauge ground as you do hot (don't put a bigger cable in one or the other positions, use the EXACT same size wire)
viola </how to>
(as for the how to if you actually need one on how to run two power wires, you may want to consider getting assistance from a mechanic)
selfinfliction;943822 said:
Simply running two power wires may seem like something thats self explanitory but with as many fire stories that there have been around here lately its proof that there is no two ways to do electrical wiring.
when doing the battery relocation the best thing you can do is use a very high quality wire that can handle the load(im using a very heavy insulated wire a little bigger than 0ga), as far as using the EXACT same gauge for the power and ground is irrelevant as long as you have very good grounding points with at least 4 ga wire soild on the frame you will be fine, and possibly coat it in rubbercoat to keep the connection clean. When running the wire make sure you use gromments where need or any place the possiblily of the wire getting cut or damaged. Also, you need to mount a fuse as close to the battery as possible so if anything does happed you will not having the wire heat up all the way thorugh the car causing a major fire hazzard. thats my .02
90T04;943858 said:
just as a said, if you have any reservations about doing something like that, go see a mechanic. i don't know if a 4 gauge would be big enough, i would use 0 gauge personally. probably something like this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/KnuKonceptz-Sil...ryZ32810QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I think the stuff I used retails for around 3.50 a foot, I got 17ft for free, not a bad deal lol its around 00gajdub;944242 said:
x87SUPRA87x;944331 said:
Double odd (00) guage? Dude how much amerage you running through that? 1000amps?
If you got it for free that is great but for anyone else thinking about buying it.. OVERKILL. 1/0 guage and then 2 gauge will do it as equally without the weight.
Of course you can always do 4 gauge Tefzel/Spec55 and double up on that.
Another important part of this is properly mounting the battery. I've seen and heard about batteries breaking their mounts and this can happen when driving and be even worse in the event of a crash. So besides making sure that the battery and where its mounted meets the rules for whatever class you are going to be running in, also make sure that everything is mounted solidly so if you do crash or something does happen, you don't have a 30+lb block flying around inside the car.
And Mcmaster is a good place to get welding cable. Prices are decent and depending on where you are, you can get the stuff the next day.
And Mcmaster is a good place to get welding cable. Prices are decent and depending on where you are, you can get the stuff the next day.
Using .5" multistrand Copper welding cable here.
Also run a 5mm cable from the battery with a fusible link to the ECU.
Also run a 5mm cable from the battery with a fusible link to the ECU.