Basic upgrade list

super51fan

New Member
Jul 28, 2010
497
0
0
Indianapolis
Lots of great and real advise. A 350whp supra is very fun to drive. Going for 400 or more everyday whp can get $$$$. Big cross over.

BTW I would run a MKIV pump for up to 500 whp. Quiet and last 100,000 miles IMO.

Don't waste money on high amp alternator. No better or worse charging at low rpm's. IMO If you need one get a toyota reman from the dealer. Buy one and be done for a long time.

Good luck.
 

Supra mn

New Member
Oct 10, 2012
84
0
0
Jacksonville/Nebraska
Not sure if anyone's mentioned this, but check out rockauto, they seem to have really good prices on a lot of the little oem things. Should save some cash vs. what I saw in your list.
Also, Albert does a good rebuild on the ct-26's. I'm sure you can find his thread on here.
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
1,158
10
38
rochester
+ 1 for albert, sumeet, and rock auto.

on a related note. my block and crank are done and i need to order bearings. the crank was turned down and i need .25 over bearings.
my builder says go with clevite 77's. i just wanted to get some input from you guys.
i saw some titan bearings that had a special coating on them. i also saw they have coated thrust washers, and a good headgasket.

i know that like the original poster, my build isn't going to be 800hp; but i want to use the best stuff where i can.
 

Grandavi

Active Member
Sep 25, 2008
2,664
6
38
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Not really up to snuff on these, but from all my reading.. the Clevites should do you good. I don't think you have to be quite as "thoughtful" of playing with clearances until you start topping the 600 - 700 crank HP. Then you have to really be mindful of what and how you are doing them. Otherwise.. I think these should be fine (again.. based on reading only)

The one thing I should mention here (for the OP)... you should look at the entire car before you begin anything. I am finding that the car bleeds money quite well because of the previous owners lack of maintenance. Everytime I go to do something... brakes.. wheels... steering... I end up having to rebuild. In the end.. I would have been better off buying a 700 rwhp MKIV supra... lol.

I think a lot of us get caught up in the engine side of the build and forget that the supporting hardware is also very old and has to be dealt with before you can grin while cruising. My steering isn't bad enough to severely wear tires or give me shakes and shudders, but it is bad enough to cause oversteer in one direction and understeer in the other. As usual, I am not doing the work myself.. so this is going to be about a 3000.00+ repair. (the A/C just set me back 1800...)

Funny thing is.. I can buy entire MK3's for what I pay for my repairs... (and have bought...). That's probably the most painful thought really... however.. in the end.. there is only one way to have my car.. and that's "right". (at this point.. cost be damned)
 

mv520

New Member
Mar 18, 2007
37
0
0
Midwest
Grandavi;2015533 said:
The one thing I should mention here (for the OP)... you should look at the entire car before you begin anything. I am finding that the car bleeds money quite well because of the previous owners lack of maintenance. Everytime I go to do something... brakes.. wheels... steering... I end up having to rebuild. In the end.. I would have been better off buying a 700 rwhp MKIV supra... lol.

I think a lot of us get caught up in the engine side of the build and forget that the supporting hardware is also very old and has to be dealt with before you can grin while cruising. My steering isn't bad enough to severely wear tires or give me shakes and shudders, but it is bad enough to cause oversteer in one direction and understeer in the other. As usual, I am not doing the work myself.. so this is going to be about a 3000.00+ repair. (the A/C just set me back 1800...)

Funny thing is.. I can buy entire MK3's for what I pay for my repairs... (and have bought...). That's probably the most painful thought really... however.. in the end.. there is only one way to have my car.. and that's "right". (at this point.. cost be damned)


illl look on rockauto and see if i can find lower pricing. ill update the pricing list.
Yea you're right about the maintenance issue. Mine needs alignment as the steering wheel is offset. It all takes time

===========

looking on rock auto for full engine gasket kit.

there are 3 brands. I dont see oem
sealed power, payen and dnj .
anybody use these brands. Ive read by numerous people to use oem on the gaskets besides head gasket.
 

gsxr141

Active Member
Oct 24, 2010
1,158
10
38
rochester
well that sucks. the machine shop didn't say anything about that. why do they offer that size bearings if the crank is bad at that point?
 

mv520

New Member
Mar 18, 2007
37
0
0
Midwest

mv520

New Member
Mar 18, 2007
37
0
0
Midwest
Here is the oem miv denso pump that came in. Happy with the purchase so far.


2gweuxw.jpg


imtsfr.jpg
 

Fuzz420

Are U Here 2 take My Baby
Nice parts list very similiar to the route i went engine wise. Arp's stock rods, i went with HKS for a head gasket. Reading about cometics and their "beads" kept me from going that way route, but that was many years ago. I would ditch the CT, SAFC 2, boost controller and Lexus AFM. I personally went with a Bolton T4(JT56) and i had similar modest power goals. Tuning Maft pro. NO silly AFM as you can run speed density and use a GM map sensor, last it has boost control functionality. I personally feel it offers a lot of bang for the buck for our cars. Also i didnt see any mention of bypass/blow off valve option, unless one is included in the Driftmotion kit. I Run Tial personally, love it. Exhaust options, sell the BIC recoop some money and buy the other BIC for bolt on turbo's or a full 3in non divorced. Im glad i personally didnt go Divorced Lipp Elbow, Random Technologies Dp, Blitz Nur cat back is crazy loud and has gotten unwanted attention ;) just food for thought. Good luck with the project.