Basic upgrade list

[mv520]

Its been several years since Ive droven my supra. I was young and poor:cry: wasn't as knowledgable. Now that I got I have an increased revenue and seeing the car sit there collecting dust I decided its time to give my mk3 some love :love:.

Being that its 2014, I just wanted some feedback on a quick list ive came up with. Hope other new members can benefit with this information. Im sticking with the ct26 , looking to put 375-400rwhp minimum and nothing to crazy such as 600+.

Engine:
-Toyota oem GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL 04111-42020 $397.46
-Driftmotion 7M Upgraded Oil Pump DM1072 $335.00
-ARP Head Stud 203-4202 $124
- WISECO PISTON/rings kit K613M835 $723.15
-Clevite Main Bearing Set MS-1774P $59.00
-Clevite P-Series Rod Bearings CB1437P $7.97 x 6 $47.82
-Gates Racing Timing Belt T237RB $69.64
-ebay silcone hose kit $147.90
-High Output 152 Amp Alternator 7m152ampalt $169.00
-headgasket (probably cometic COM C4278) $170-206
=$2242.XX

Fuel:
-walbro brand 255lph HP fuel pump $93.00
-Fuel Dampener Bypass Hose DM141 $65.00
-Aeromotive AFPR Kit DM151 $265.00
-RC Engineering 550cc Injectors PL8-550 $545.00

=$968.00

Intake/exhaust/elec
-Drift motion 2.5" intercooler kit DM2354 425.00
-57 Trim CT26 Turbo upgrade DM117 $489.00
-LEXUS AFM
-APEXi S-AFC II 250 used
-HKS EVC boost confroller

Brakes
|front|
- Brake Line Kit for Cobra Brake Set swap by Driftmotion DM1712 $110.00
- Cobra Brake Caliper Bracket Set f swap by Driftmotion DM824 179.99
-Power Stop Silver Zinc Plated Cross-Drilled & Slotted Rotors w/Z16 Ceramic Scorched Pads K1304 150
-99-04 OEM Remanufactured Brake Calipers by A1 Cardone 18-4838 18-4839 $39.44 a caliper(78.88)( plus 41 core charge (160.00)

= $600 for front brake upgrade
|rear|
A)mk4 route

B)evo 8 route (evo 8 calipers with 05+ sti rotors)
-Rear caliper pair remanufactored By Centric 14246531 14246532 $197.79(97.79+100 core) + $198.79(98.97+ 100 core) = $396.58 Pair
-Rear Drilled and Slotted Rotors Power Stop JBR1365XPR $83.53 Pair
-StopTech Street Performance Brake Pads by CENTRIC 30909610 $35.79
- SS rear lines
=$515.90 with out rear lines and machining

C)OEM route


Supras sure aren't cheap. :eek3:

 

[AbsoluteSpeed]

Glad to see you have a clear plan. Any pics of the car?

 

[super51fan]

Don't forget the budget busters.

All new coolant hoses. I only use OEM Toyota. More $ but i thinks it is worth it.

New accordian hose. and hoses going to it.

New pcv vent hose on cam cover to block. Hoses on factory pcv vent hoses.

New plug wires.

And Some $ in misc .

Drive belts, T stat and fluids.

You are on your way to a car that may just run for a while. Good luck.

 

[mv520]

I was thinking of this eBay silicone kit. Yea I Know it's eBay. Several people have said they had no problems with it... http://m.ebay.com/itm/191092021736?nav=SEARCH thanks superfan for input. I'll post a pic up soon

 

[suprarx7nut]

I don't see block machining. For that MHG to last you'll want to take the block into a shop to get the block surface machined flat and smooth.

Same goes for the head.

$500-$1000 in machine work is basically a minimum for a MHG build.

 

[emiliorescigno]

I'd skip the Walbro fuel pump, and get something a bit nicer, like an Aeromotive Stealth 340 or similar.

 

[Supra0089]

Are you sure you only want 375-400? We've all said that before....haha.

Agree with above, all basic maintenance first, even hoses, plugs, wires, and check the condition of your wiring harness before you start adding the piggybacks. I was grounded out for about 3 weeks before I found the problem was in the harness, not my wiring of the vpc/afc.

After that, your list will get you upper 300's and maybe even crack 400whp. If you're doing a ct26 upgrade, for streetability (and only if you're serious about the no big power goal), i'd recommend a 50 trim...it's super fast on the spool and you can get 350-375 on it.

 

[IndigoMKII]

My 57 trim is streetable too. I get full boost before 3k rpm. Not like any variant of the ct26 is a lag monster.

 

[Grandavi]

so... im guessing your rebuilding the engine yourself from the list? New oil pump is smart (shim it 5mm). Stock pistons can handle 600 crank HP. You will have less knock issues with stock pistons over Forged... but if you ever want to get into the 500 rwhp range, I would recommend forged. Im guessing your doing the engine yourself, but recommend you use a machinist that UNDERSTANDS the 7M prep the block. make sure the head is straight and the block isn't pitted and has no grooves. Mine is Cometic 1.2 MHG with ARP studs. If I see a HG issue.. I will keel over.

No need for a fuel pump upgrade at this point really. Its nice, but not needed. (This from Reg Reimer.. the father of the 7M BPU setup)

I have the "new" 7M DM Intercooler and the top pipe is built wrong. I kept the stock air box (even today with a 4" pipe, its still there), but the top pipe wants to run through that hole. Stupidest designed pipe ever... I threw mine out and made a custom pipe from the intake plenum to the fender wall and used the proper location for that piping. Other than that, the intercooler is up to the task. I would recommend you do that very last, though, because your problem isn't going to be with lack of air (in my opinion) as much as it will be with limited CT26 housing. You can only flow so much air through the housing of the CT26...

I use the HKS EVC-S... happy with it. I personally wouldn't run with the SAFC... but that's just because I don't believe in defeating fuel cut... its there for a reason. You probably wouldn't run into any issue whatsoever.. Im just not a fan of it and opted not to run with any fuel cut defense. Also.. your going to eventually be limited by the ECU going pig rich at WOT... so you will reach a peak because of the over fueling condition.

In the end... doing just what your about to... I found so many flaws with staying with the older technology that I ended up with a T4 setup and standalone. Why? Because the power is addictive.. lol.

I truly wish I had planned for T4 with standalone from the very beginning. I was told... but didn't understand. Although a lot of people talk about... oh yeah... 400 rwhp with a CT26 ... easy.... its not. Lots of physics get in the way of that plan. I climbed that ladder and 350 was pretty damn hard to reach. 300 was much easier. A lot of things have to be controlled to reach that 400 rwhp mark... There are other options over what your listing... so depending on your timeline.. take the time to do as much research/reading as possible. And be careful when believing other's stories. They usually focus on the glory side... not the horrors of getting there.


Here's a link to my dyno sheet. (note that the 7M has nice torque... lol. )
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...algary-build&p=1914297&viewfull=1#post1914297

Note what happens after 4k rpm... two reasons... stupid rich fuel and CT26 housing limitations.

However.. the car was a monster. Early power compared to my T4 SP6262... but my power band now climbs... its limited simply because I don't want to run the engine too hard with a stock head.

This is the dyno with a T4 and HKS Fcon VPro 3.3 standalone (7M)... note the power curve and the AFR's... (this was with a 57Trim CT26 from DM.. before I got the boost controller setup correctly). No fuel cut issues until I went with the 60-1 CT26.. then I got it all the time. I think the boost controller was at fault at that point, though, because the EVC-S has an incorrectly worded instruction for one of the settings.
http://www.supramania.com/forums/sh...algary-build&p=2009717&viewfull=1#post2009717

Only thing Im not as happy with is the late boost. Once it hits though....

 

[Supra0089]

I totally agree with Grandavi. I went the vpc/afc with the JT62 bolt-on turbo, got to 402whp/408 tq and ended up burning some rings within a month...

After that I chose to do things right and went for a full rebuilt, forged motor, and standalone. Still not enough in the budget for a t4 yet (too many toys), but I wish I had just done the t4 conversion and got appropriate sized injectors AND standalone way back before I got the vpc/afc and JT62. I probably wouldn't have cooked the rings, and would already be running close to 500wheel..not that 420 is bad on a built auto and all...but still...not satisfied.

 

[gsxr141]

i just dropped off my block, pistons and crank at the machine shop. i'm having the block bored, honed and decked. and the crank polished or turned. the labor was $600.
that doesn't include having the head decked.

 

[Grandavi]

Im running 385 rwhp @ 12 psi on my T4. Its capped basically because if I go higher (which is simple... 500 rwhp is easy to do with my current setup), I cant keep the car on the road with my current tires... lol.

I run at 14 psi capped (B setting) which would put it at about 400 rwhp. Any higher and because I am on 91 octane, I could have a detonation issue (not likely.. but still possible). This is something I don't want... and because its a highway cruiser.. I don't really need much more power anyway...

Just to give you an idea of the difference... with the 550's/Lexus AFM/57 Trim CT 26... I was having real difficulty staying above 11.2 AFR on WOT. Basically... I had no room for air because fuel was taking it up. Then I had the power issue where it would pull hard and then peak and fall. That's simply a CT26 running out of breath because I was exceeding maximum throughput. Turbo's aren't rated by HP (although for marketing they are). Its all about max flow. I learned this the "long" way.

Now... with a T4/1000 cc ID Injectors/Stand alone (color this expensive), my AFR's are fully controllable throughout the powerband. I can go to 550 rwhp or higher if I opt to run a race fuel for tuning... but that's not why I built the car... Plus.. with a stock head, I run the risk of floating the valves, etc.. etc.. To go above 450 rwhp on the 7M (after getting to where I am now) cams and building the valve train properly are highly recommended. My bottom end is setup for 700 crank HP with the Wiseco forged pistons, but running at 500 rwhp+ has potential risks that I just done need. (bear in mind I pay for all my wrench time... I haven't touched this car myself... so any issue is usually big $$).

I'm lucky because Reg Reimer and his team work on my car. I'm unlucky because I have to pay for it. Most of my "learning" has been very expensive which is why I balk at people who say you can do 400 rwhp with a CT26. Yeah.. you can... but safely? Not easily... and .. then there's that max flow issue....

My biggest expense has been due to reading here... going into the shop and talking like I know what the hell I am talking about... them assuming that I know what I am talking about (or in otherwords.. making an informed decision) and then finding out that I had no idea what I was talking about... and having to do it a second time to do it properly.

My car is being built to last another 300,000 km (221k km on the odo currently) with no issues.. I'm not there yet with the car (other than mechanically), but very very close.


All of what I say is basically to get you to really stop and think hard on what your goals are. In my honest opinion.. if your shooting for 325 rwhp... stick with the CT26... it will be fine. But if you want serious stability/power... go with newer technology. The 7M is an excellent engine when built properly and benefits from all the advances made on the parts attached to it to this date. Its not that much more costly to hit your final goal. It is MUCH more costly to aim, shoot and miss... then have to aim again.

 

[IndigoMKII]

On topic: Read read read. There's more information on this website than you'll ever be able to fully take in.

Grandavi: You could run a set of BC valve springs/retainers/guides if you don't think the stock valvetrain is up to it.

 

[Grandavi]

I think I am reaching the upper limits of a stock head (purely by physics with a big safety factor).

Engine wise, I think the next upgrade will be 272 cams and a stronger valve train. My goal is to safely reach as close to 500 rwhp without sacrificing durability.

I can at 400ish rwhp right now all day long without much worry about stressing anything (that's at only 14 psi on a SP6262 DBB turbo with a 0.68 ar). I plan on doing several 1000-3000 km road trips in the car so I want it to be able to make the long run without any issues at all and no worry.

As a note... 1000 cc ID injectors (with a standalone) can be run the same as 440's. Their range is incredible.

 

[mv520]

thank you guys for the replies and wise words . The only reason why i wanted to stick with ct26 turbo (57trim future mod) is because I currently have a bic ddp. Is there a way to get a flange to bolt to a t4 set up or am i screwed? Yea, I think we can safely say we all want more power after the the thrill and joy comes down. It will be a weekend streetability car. I wouldnt mind being able to walk on a mustang on a highway if one pulled up next to me. Hence why I wanted minimum 400rwhp.

Im gettting a feeling 400rwhp CT26 is not worth it.

 

[gsxr141]

i went with a 60-1 ct26 i'm shooting for 400 wheel in a balanced street car. i went with that turbo also because i had a bic ddp, and aftermarket intercooler pipes.

my upgrade path is colse to yours....

aem ver 1
greddy profec b spec 2 boost controller
aem uego
probe .20 forged pistons
eagle h beams
60-1 turbo
metal head gasket
630cc fic injectors
walbro 255
fuel pump rewire
aasco flywheel
princess motorsports driveshaft
solid motor mounts
xcessive trans mount
energy suspension rear bushings
h&r race springs and kyg gr2's
beech short shifter
driftmotion brake lines
slotted and drilled rotors
etc......

i'll let you know how it turns out. so far it has been a blast to drive.

i think you'll be very happy with that turbo choice. that's just my opinion.

 

[mv520]

thanks bro, looking forward to your end result. i updated my list a little. what head valve train did you go with. oem springs and valves or aftermarket.

 

[gsxr141]

no prob. right now i'm still deciding on the head. i don't think anything special is needed at that power level. i wouldn't mind bc 264's and some porting, but i've been told it's not necessary.

 

[Grandavi]

Yeah headwork is needed for above 400 rwhp (remember... It's more hp at the crank)

There are turbo upgrades that can still work on the BIC DDP. It's a matter of research really

That being said... You have to keep it in perspective. A small quick spool turbo is a ton of fun. The large turbos have more top end... But your breaking laws using it... Lol. I hit 150 kph far too fast.

Sometimes I miss that good quick pull compared to my current monster hauling upper end. I haven't has a safe area to boost into fourth because my speed is too high.

 

[atmperformance]

I picked up brand new RC550s on ebay they were listed for $350 and my $300 offer got them. keep an eye out for deals.